My TM pops the GFI in the garage

[TnP-2027]

Originally Posted by Bill

Sounds like you are electrically handy, which will be helpful.

If you will be driving only 2-3 (or 5 or 6) hours, there is no reason to run the refrig while you drive. Just make sure that as you prep to leave, it is fully cold, all the food in it is fully cold, and you will keep it closed - don't open the door. It is well insulated, and makes a great cooler. If you can load it up with bottles of cold or frozen water, or frozen packs of blue ice, in addition to the cold food, that's helpful, too. In other words, a full load of cold stuff is better than a small load.

As was mentioned somewhere above, you can pop off the exterior panel on the refrig compartment. You will find that the refrig is plugged into a hidden outlet. You can unplug it from that outlet, and run it on a lightweight extension cord from any outlet in your house or garage, even a GFI outlet. Having powered up the refrig alone, you have no need to plug in the entire trailer, so the GFI in the garage outlet shouldn't pop.

Finally, think I am hearing you say that when you plug the TM's main cord into a GFI outlet in the garage, using the dog-bone adapter, it pops the GFI regardless of which of the TM's breakers are switched on or off. Am I saying this correctly? This brings us back to the burned-out water heater element as the cause. I will be interested to hear whether the water heater works on AC power while you are at the campground.

Meanwhile, if you want to read through the burned-out water heater theory, you'll find it here, with a bunch of fun diagrams.
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ead.php?t=8101

Bill

This is some good stuff Bill, thank you for pulling everything together. You jogged my memory on how the GFCI works with a fault to Ground, and how it can still trip the CFCI even with the breaker to the water heater OFF.

Thinking back on the chain of events, I am relatively certain that I burned the electric heat element for the water heater.

1. The POs gave us the trailer with freshwater tank full and the switch in the exterior water heater compartment ON. Presumably the water heater had water in it.
2. We went camping the next weekend where I plugged into shore power, city water supply and turned on propane.
3. I do not recall exactly when I turned the water heater switch under the sink ON, (we were more focused on getting the fridge cold) but at some point I did and we had hot water very quickly.
4. Prior to leaving camp, we turned off propane, disconnected shore power and city water. I opened the gravity drains on the water tanks and then dumped the toilet and gray water.
5. When we get home, I plug in the TM (using adapter) shore power line to my garage service (110V, 20A) and trip the GFCI. Freshwater tank and water heater are presumably empty. Switch in water heater exterior compartment is ON.

Lessons learned...

I will head out to the storage area with my multi-meter and test the element.

[TnP-2027]

Originally Posted by Bill

Right. And on it, you can see the printed warning. If I can guess about some of the missing letters, it says "Do not dry fire electric element. Make sure heater is filled with water before electric element is turned on." Not a particularly helpful place for the warning - a big black-and-white text label would have helped more - but there it is.

As pointed out in the referenced photo 3, the big rusty thing is the anode rod. The electric element is what is under the black cap, as shown in photo 4.

I'm not sure you have found the right element. The one you found is rated 2000 watts (almost 17 amps), which seems high to me. Amazon also has some at 1650 watts (more like 14 amps). And my memory is saying something more like 1440 watts (12 amps), also on Amazon. Have you checked your blue book (binder)? It will have the owner's manual for the water heater, which will give you the right answer.

Bill

Thanks again Bill!

I went through the Blue Binder of knowledge and found my Suburban manual for the water heater. I have the SW6 DE. Heater element P/N 520789.

It looks like e-trailer has a 1500W replacement: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories.../CAM02143.html

The 2000W would be too much and probably/hopefully trip the breaker. Not sure if it would physically fit the tank.

And a replacement anode: https://www.etrailer.com/p-CAM11563....tails=.reviews It looks like no gasket on the anode?

[TnP-2027]

Originally Posted by Bill

Yes, 1440 watts is the correct number.

I would like to suggest that you get familiar with the Trail Manor Technical Library, located at the entry to this Forum at
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...splay.php?f=42
It contains a lot of good information on many topics, including a lot of what we have been talking about here.

Bill

The Technical Library looks great! The schematics have helped me understand my power distribution questions.

Thanks Bill.

[TnP-2027]

Originally Posted by Bill

Yes, 1440 watts is the correct number.

I would like to suggest that you get familiar with the Trail Manor Technical Library, located at the entry to this Forum at
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...splay.php?f=42
It contains a lot of good information on many topics, including a lot of what we have been talking about here.

Bill

I tested, and then replaced the water heater element: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=20288

I also put the GFCI outlet back on my garage circuit.
Looking forward to bringing the camper home tonight, or tomorrow night and plugging in!

Thanks for your help all!

[oldstick]

Originally Posted by TnP-2027

Lessons learned...

I will head out to the storage area with my multi-meter and test the element.

Yep, done that twice already with our camper. Very easy to forget and leave the electric switch ON, unplug, take down, then drain the water system ready to depart. The very next time you plug in to shore power with the empty tank, that's it. New heater element required.

[TnP-2027]

I brought the TM home last night and plugged back in to the 20 amp service in our garage.

I had put the GFCI outlet back on this circuit in our garage.

I plugged in with all the breakers in the TM Camper switched to OFF, and the garage/shore power GFCI outlet did not trip.

In the TM, I flipped the MAIN breaker and the breaker for the fridge & water heater, and then checked the GFCI on my shore power - did not trip!!!

[TnP-2027]

I checked the fridge and shore power GFCI a few hours later last night and all seemed well.

This morning I went to check the fridge and it did not seem very cold compared to ambient temp (~50 degrees this AM).

The shore power GFCI had tripped!

I reset the shore power GFCI in the garage and the adapter LED stayed lit.

I wonder if the fridge - set to 5 (max cold), plus the converter trying to re-charge the TM battery exceeded the GFCI? I had used the electric tongue jack to level. This requires a few cycles of extending, lowering the stabilizers, raising, and adding a 2x4, then repeat due our driveway slope.

[TnP-2027]

Just to put a bullet in this thread, I have verified the water heater works on propane, and on electric modes.

More importantly, the electric mode works when the TM is plugged into the GFCI outlet in my garage!

Thanks all...