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Old 05-19-2020, 08:19 AM
Randy Green Randy Green is offline
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Default Using 110v power source

I have a 2010 2720 SL did I just purchased. When I plug-in using 110 V how do I know if the trailer is operating with 110v or whether itís using the battery. Also can I use an external propane tank with larger capacity when the RVís tanks run out. Thank you.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:14 AM
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rickst29 rickst29 is online now
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Lightbulb (1) check voltage. (2) Yes, you CAN swap to an external tank.

You can confirm that the power converter is proving 12V power by looking at the "12V" voltage with a voltmeter. (One of the cigarette-lighter sockets can be used for this). If the Voltage is less than 12.5V, then you're running from the battery. If it is above 13.0V, then your power converter is working - it should usually read above 13.5V, corresponding to battery charge "float" mode.

A small, cheap DVM (digital volt meter) is a handy tool to keep inside the TM, under the sink with other tools.
- - - -
If your external tank has OPD hose connections, you could connect it through a OPM M-F extender hose. First, dial the TM tank selector to select that tank which you are NOT disconnecting. Then disconnect one TM tank, and connect your hose to the free tubing connector. end. Then connect your external tank at the other end. Switch the TM tank selector over to your external tank, and open the OPD valve on the tank.
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TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires, swing hitch, Flex Solar Panels (360W), EP-Solar MPPT 'BN3215' (30A maximum). CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
110aH LiFePO4 battery, PD 4655L "WildKat" Power Converter, 1500 watt-3000 peak Inverter. 36 Volt "TV-to-Trailer Power Option", using the MPPT.
TV= 2007 4Runner ("Sport" v6 w/XREAS, Prodigy, 'Robin' WDH, Dashboard Switch for 36V Trailer Power). Our TM Travels in the West:

Last edited by rickst29; 05-19-2020 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:07 PM
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Shane826 Shane826 is online now
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Easiest way is to just plug a lamp or something into one of the 110V household-style outlets. Those outlets only work when connected to AC power. If the lamp lights up, youíre on AC power. If not, youíre likely running on battery power (unless the outlet GFCI or circuit breaker is tripped or something like that)
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:58 PM
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Bill Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Green View Post
When I plug-in using 110 V how do I know if the trailer is operating with 110v or whether it’s using the battery.
You may have a fundamental misunderstanding. You asked if the trailer is operating on "plug-in OR battery", as if the trailer is one single device. It is not. It is really a collection of devices, some of which operate on 110VAC, and some of which operate on 12VDC. So there is really isn't an "...or..."

Some parts of the trailer's systems operate on 110volts AC. The most obvious part is the air conditioner. It operates on 110VAC, never from 12volts DC, and if you don't have a source of 110VAC (in other words, you are not plugged in), it won't operate. There are a few other parts that operate solely on 110VAC, such as the outlets that Shane mentions, and the situation is the same. If you don't have 110VAC, they won't operate. The trailer does not have its own internal source of 110VAC.

Many other parts of the trailer operate on 12 volts DC. The best example is the lights. The lights operate only from 12VDC, and never from 110VAC. Fortunately, the trailer has its own internal short-term source of 12VDC - the battery. The lights will operate normally even if the trailer is not plugged in, because they are drawing power from the battery. However, the battery will discharge after a while, and the lights will go out unless you have a way to recharge it

If you are plugged into 110VAC, then the trailer has a 110VAC device that will recharge the battery as fast as the lights (for example) discharge it. That device is called a converter or a charger. As long as you are plugged into 110VAC, the converter will keep the battery charged. But the lights are still operating on 12VDC only.

So ... some parts of the trailer operate on 110VAC only, and some operate on 12VDC only. But for any device, there is no either/or.

In Part 2 of this lesson (!), we will examine devices which have both a 110VAC half, and a 12VDC half. The only one I can think of is the refrigerator. The refrig actually contains a 110VAC cooling unit, and a 12VDC cooling unit. You get to choose which one you want to use. But the rule is the same. If you aren't plugged in, the 110VAC part won't work. If you choose the 12VDC unit, it will work by drawing power from the battery until the battery is exhausted (not long, it is a power hog).

Hope that made sense.

Bill
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Old 05-19-2020, 01:00 PM
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rickst29 rickst29 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane826 View Post
Easiest way is to just plug a lamp or something into one of the 110V household-style outlets. Those outlets only work when connected to AC power. If the lamp lights up, youíre on AC power. If not, youíre likely running on battery power (unless the outlet GFCI or circuit breaker is tripped or something like that)
That will assure that the TM power cord is getting jiuce from the 120VAC socket, but it doesn't assure that the Converter is running to supply 12V. My "measure the 12V voltage" assures both.
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TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires, swing hitch, Flex Solar Panels (360W), EP-Solar MPPT 'BN3215' (30A maximum). CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
110aH LiFePO4 battery, PD 4655L "WildKat" Power Converter, 1500 watt-3000 peak Inverter. 36 Volt "TV-to-Trailer Power Option", using the MPPT.
TV= 2007 4Runner ("Sport" v6 w/XREAS, Prodigy, 'Robin' WDH, Dashboard Switch for 36V Trailer Power). Our TM Travels in the West:
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  #6  
Old 05-21-2020, 06:30 AM
Randy Green Randy Green is offline
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Default Great information

Thank you for all your help. I have been very impressed with this RV so far.
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