Brake shoes cracked! Replace?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 08-23-2007, 02:52 PM

I'm in the process of repacking the wheel bearings today, and upon pulling off the drum, I noticed that both of the brake shoes are cracked. I've never seen this before, although the only drum brakes I have worked on before with any regularity are the rear brakes on some vehicles.

Is this normal wear, or do they have to be replaced? Picture is attached.

Thanks!
Dave

Keith Wire · 08-23-2007, 05:06 PM

Dave,

I have only changed the brake shoes about a dozen times over the years, but I don't think I have ever seen that before.

I did a GOOGLE search and came up with this link:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...g/19680801.cfm

Not much help because like always, it seems like there are two sides to every story.

How many miles are on them? And are both the right and left wheels the same? Are these still the asbestos shoes, or are they the new composite?

If it was me, I'd take it to my NAPA dealer, who is a friend, and ask him.

But in the end, I'd probably replace them, just so I didn't have to worry about it as I was driving. We have enough to worry about.

Keith

**ShrimpBurrito** · 08-23-2007, 05:50 PM

Thanks for the link, Keith. Obviously I'm not the first one to observe this.

I just got off the phone with Dexter's California plant, and they said that "hairline cracks" are signs of normal wear, and are not cause for replacement. She mentioned the info was on their website, which I find unneccessarily difficult to navigate, but I finally found it on page 16 of this PDF (page 12 in Adobe):

http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/...rakes_6-11.pdf

I've also attached the PDF as the above link has broken in the past.

So, I think I am comfortable with that, and will leave them on there until next year's inspection.

Dave

**Deb Mac** · 06-02-2023, 01:30 PM

An old thread but I am resurrecting it. In my battle with my new to me TM, the Kobayashi Maru, now that the plumbing is done, I have started on brakes and bearings.

Bearings and races are pristine, smooth as glass, grease is still nice and thick and sticky. No signs of water, grease seal very well intact! No wobble in the wheel in any direction.
Surface rust on the back plates and mechanisms, but everything moves the way it should. Magnets are both in great shape.
Brake shoes hardly have any wear on them. I know the PO didn't go far when he traveled and the condition of everything shows it. But...

The shoes on the curb side are both cracked. Street side are fine - some fine hairline, which according to that pdf from Dexter, should be fine. But the curb side are definitely more than hairline, so unfortunately, I am going to have to replace the brakes. Drums are great so I'm just going to do the actual brake assembly on both sides, and leave the bearings alone.

I am going to contact Dexter to find out what they say the cause would be. I am thinking just time affecting those acceptable hairline cracks.. These are the original brakes (along with the original tires) so it isn't a huge surprise that I have to replace them.

**Bill** · 06-02-2023, 06:52 PM

You probably have 10-inch brakes on a Dexter 3500-pound axle. Rather than replace the brake shoes, you can replace the entire brake assembly, and do it easily. And best of all, the new assembly can have self-adjusting brakes. As I recall, you jack up the TM, remove the wheel, then remove 4 bolts from the back of the hub. Slide off the old assembly, slide on the new one, replace the bolts, and you're done. I couldn't believe how easy it was.

We had discussions of this several years ago. The price has more than doubled since I did it - but what hasn't? At any rate, here is one discussion - I think there were others.

https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ight=adjusting

Bill

**Deb Mac** · 06-02-2023, 07:23 PM

Hi Bill. That’s what I’ve got. I’ve ordered a pair of Lippert self-adjusting brake assemblies. No way I wanted to mess around with just replacing the shoes! Did that on my old Mustang years ago and it was a pain! So 4 nuts and washers?…. I’m a happy camper! And I’ve got about 5 days to get the old ones off.. just in case they’re a little stubborn after 15 years. Lots of time to work on that spare tire rack. Head into town to one of the welding shops. And I can set all the struts to vertical while I wait too! And get half of my tools out of the trailer and back home where they belong. Lots to do while I wait for the brake parts.

I’ve got the drums and bearings at home and I’ll give them a good clean up and inspection and repack them tomorrow. They look new. Almost no sign on the spindle that anything was ever there. And since there was absolutely no movement on the wheels, I thought I would leave well enough alone and just clean and repack. I have new seals coming too. Hope to have everything all back in place by end of next week. Once everything is back together, I’ll take it out to seat the shoes and give her a bit of a dry run for a half hour.

Wavery · 06-06-2023, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

An old thread but I am resurrecting it. In my battle with my new to me TM, the Kobayashi Maru, now that the plumbing is done, I have started on brakes and bearings.

Bearings and races are pristine, smooth as glass, grease is still nice and thick and sticky. No signs of water, grease seal very well intact! No wobble in the wheel in any direction.
Surface rust on the back plates and mechanisms, but everything moves the way it should. Magnets are both in great shape.
Brake shoes hardly have any wear on them. I know the PO didn't go far when he traveled and the condition of everything shows it. But...

The shoes on the curb side are both cracked. Street side are fine - some fine hairline, which according to that pdf from Dexter, should be fine. But the curb side are definitely more than hairline, so unfortunately, I am going to have to replace the brakes. Drums are great so I'm just going to do the actual brake assembly on both sides, and leave the bearings alone.

I am going to contact Dexter to find out what they say the cause would be. I am thinking just time affecting those acceptable hairline cracks.. These are the original brakes (along with the original tires) so it isn't a huge surprise that I have to replace them.

Those brake shoes have been fried. They were probably adjusted way too tight. The magnets look to good for a controller problem.

Is there any bluing on the drum surface?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 06-06-2023, 03:37 PM

This is why I don't even think so much about what parts to replace with the brakes. I just replace all of them (the cost of new brake kits with braking pads is really not much more than any of the parts), and be done with it. It's probably the most important part of the trailer, and costs comparatively little to assure a safe ride. So if I see that either the shoes OR magnets need replacing, I get new kits (with backing plates) and new drums for both wheels. Done.

I also knock out the Chinese-made Dexter bearings that come with the drums, throw them out, and replace them with USA-made Timken bearings (at least they were USA-made when I last bought them).

The magnet surface of the drum can get quite worn, and years ago I was not able to find anywhere able to machine them.

Dave

**Deb Mac** · 06-06-2023, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wavery

Those brake shoes have been fried. They were probably adjusted way too tight. The magnets look to good for a controller problem.

Is there any bluing on the drum surface?

Not sure about the bluing - possibly. They aren't shiny bright but, again - first time with electric brakes and don't know what to expect. I have done my own car brakes a couple of times years ago, but that was years ago... And mine had never had any over-heating issues - I don't ride my brakes - car, trailer or motorhome. I learned how to use engine braking a long time ago.

I am not going to mess around. I have the Lippert hubs on order, and they will be here next week. Complete with bearings, races and seals installed.

I'm going to start from scratch. New brake assemblies and new hubs. Then I know where I stand.

**Deb Mac** · 06-06-2023, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

This is why I don't even think so much about what parts to replace with the brakes. I just replace all of them (the cost of new brake kits with braking pads is really not much more than any of the parts), and be done with it. It's probably the most important part of the trailer, and costs comparatively little to assure a safe ride. So if I see that either the shoes OR magnets need replacing, I get new kits (with backing plates) and new drums for both wheels. Done.

I also knock out the Chinese-made Dexter bearings that come with the drums, throw them out, and replace them with USA-made Timken bearings (at least they were USA-made when I last bought them).

The magnet surface of the drum can get quite worn, and years ago I was not able to find anywhere able to machine them.

Dave

I have the same feeling about the brakes themselves - I have new brake assemblies coming. And the question was whether I needed to replace the drums as well. Decided that since the things seem to be up in air a bit about surface condition on the existing hubs, I have ordered new ones, assembled, and will start fresh.

Things are a bit pricier up here in Canada - we are paying your price in USD, plus the exchange rate, plus the costs to import them. Almost doubles the cost. Dexter's are out of range of my wallet if I do a whole refit of the brakes. Maybe next time. If I can track down the appropriate Timken bearing set, I'll look into replacing what's coming in the Lippert hubs.