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Old 04-18-2023, 06:57 PM   #11
Wavery
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Les Fellows View Post
That makes perfect sense. If I have trouble on the re-alignment, I should be able to reduce the tension on the rear torsion arms then re-adjust them once the shell is back down.
Ok no go on the Sunbrella, so would a high quality marine grade naugahyde the ticket for the bag seals?
Naugahyde doesn't last long in the Sun and weather. I'm not sure what the factory uses but it seems like hypalon (the fabric used to make inflatable dinghies out of) might be a good choice.
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Old 04-19-2023, 08:16 AM   #12
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Lift the BOTH roofs into the open position. The torsion bars are now unloaded, under no tension.

Detach the wiring going up the lift arms. You may need to disconnect the A/C cable at the junction box (both TMs I did this on didn’t have rooftop A/C).

Place a table or build a scaffold with a couple step ladders & 2x4s at the ends of the camper. We put a couple old tires on the table/scaffold to act as a cushion.

Remove the pivot bolts on the middle lift arms for both shells. The shell should be resting on the lift arm pocket stop, there really shouldn’t be much tension on the bolts. If you have the old style with the Allen bolt & acorn nut hold the Allen wrench and remove the nut inside. This seems to work better and not strip the Allen bolt.

One person inside the TM pushes the roof up and towards the end of the camper, sidekick guides the shell and carefully sets it on the tires.

Place a 2x4 across the top of the walls of the bottom box and under the bottom of the shell walls to keep it from possibly coming crashing back down while you’re working.

Now you have a nice open area to work on the bag seals with plenty of clearance from the rear shell and lower box.

I’ve attached a diagram showing how to support the roofs, a diagram showing how the shell rests on the lift arm pocket stop (pre-2000 TMs used a rubber pad while newer TMs use a bolt) and not on the pivot pin, and a couple pics when we cracked the project 2720 open to repair the blown out pockets. Notice in the photo the torsion bar isn’t straight up and down when the roof was lifted. We had backed the torsion bar adjusters way down because we weren’t sure what to expect. But the bars are at rest in the upright position, they usually want to stay vertical.

Foam is 1-1/4” x 2-1/2”.

This video isn’t complete and might give you vertigo but it has good info on where to staple and how to fold the vinyl on your new bag seals.

https://youtu.be/BQQRi51umu8

They are walking on the rear roof, but they have a brace they put underneath to hold the shape and support the weight. I wouldn’t do this because I’m a pretty big guy. The folks at the factory are in a lot better shape than I am so they can get away with it.

Let me know if you have other questions, if I don’t know the answer I’ll make something up!
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Old 04-19-2023, 08:20 AM   #13
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Foam is 1-1/4” x 2-1/2”.

This video isn’t complete might give you vertigo but it gives you good info on where to staple and how to fold the vinyl on. Your new bag seals.

They are walking on the rear roof, but they have a brace they put underneath to hold the shape and support the weight. I wouldn’t do this because I’m a pretty big guy. The folks at the factory are in a lot better shape than I am so they can get away with it.

https://youtu.be/BQQRi51umu8
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Old 04-19-2023, 08:21 AM   #14
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Happy Wednesday,

Last night I remove trim panel on the inside of the A/C pedestal and began the arduous task of scraping the mounds of caulking off it with a plastic chisel.

In looking at the pedestal, I can't see how it is attached to the roof. There are no bolts or screws retaining it from underneath. I scraped away the caulking on the left side and saw there are no screws holding it down to the roof. There is a fa fair bit of give between the roof and pedestal as I scrap.

In looking at the rear torsion as it relates to the tubing running up to the shell, there may be enough length to it, to allow lifting it 4 inches without completely disengaging it, which would simplify the process of raising the shell.
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Old 04-19-2023, 08:55 AM   #15
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Hey Shane,

Thanx for all the information and the diagrams, most helpful.
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Old 05-03-2023, 09:52 AM   #16
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Happy Wednesday,

I followed some of the supplied directions and boy am I glad I dd.
I was afforded easy access to the back edge of the front shell. Once open up I found the the roof edge wood was not just broken, it had completely rotted away along with the sides. Got it removed cleaned up and replaced with new poplar. All glued in and man is it stout. On to the bag seal and then she is done.

You folks are an invaluable resource, thank you so much!

Les
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Old 05-03-2023, 10:27 AM   #17
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Sounds like a good project with a good outcome. Were you able to seal the new wood against water? Bag seals don't leak freely, but the canvas, with its many staple holes and unsealed folds, can pass small amounts of water. Then the foam, especially if an open-cell foam is used, can absorb that water and hold it against the wood. Poplar is strong, but unless sealed, poplar is susceptible to damp rot.

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Old 05-03-2023, 03:38 PM   #18
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Hey Bill,

I had some left over cabinet epoxy that has been wearing like iron in our kitchen. After cutting and fitting the bow on the roof edge and the sides, I gave them 2 coats of the epoxy, then they cured for a few days before setting them in with stainless screws on the ends and plenty of gorilla waterproof glue.

I plan to glue (contact cement) and staple the bag seal in, then bend and glue the outer skin around the edge. Followed by sealant on the seam between the skin and bag seal, then installing the repainted trim with painted stainless screws, finishing with sealant on the edge of the trim.

3 week before out first try out, so very much to do.

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Old 05-03-2023, 04:57 PM   #19
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Wow! That was what I call a belt-and-suspenders approach. I like it!

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Old 06-27-2023, 10:24 AM   #20
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Default Roof sag fix thread

I put up a thread about sagging roof with an idea to solve it. Any comments, suggestions or otherwise would be great
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