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Old 06-11-2014, 08:27 PM   #11
tentcamper
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But getting back to elec heaters. I'm going to look at the 120/20 amp source for the AC to tap into and add an outlet in the camper for the elect heater. I figure I will never run the AC and an electric heater at the same time. I will home run a line and put a 20 amp GFI plug on the end.

I believe the AC 120 is in the junction box that is below the camper just below the fridge.
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:59 PM   #12
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Two ceramic space heaters with adjustable temperature setting (smaller than a toaster) two different outlets; one pointed to the front, another to the rear. We set the propane to 65°F and it rarely comes on all the way down to 0°F.

The propane heater has way too much temperature variance (gets too hot, and allows it to get too cold) and is rather loud. We store them under the seat when not in use.

No fumes, no ventilation, no propane.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:45 PM   #13
tentcamper
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What we found to keep an even heat in the camper, was to put the heater on the front left burner of the stove. Pointed directly at the front corner of the bath.

It ended up with about 1/2 the air hitting the kitchen sink side of the bathroom wall and circulated back around the front half of the camper, and the other 1/2 of the air moves down the hall and around the rear bunk end since the stove top is about bunk height. Now we had to move it during daytime and just point it at the front.

We have only done it this way with outside temps down into the low 40's. But it seemed to keep the camper temps balanced.
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Old 06-21-2014, 05:39 AM   #14
mecicon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tentcamper View Post
What we found to keep an even heat in the camper, was to put the heater on the front left burner of the stove. Pointed directly at the front corner of the bath.

It ended up with about 1/2 the air hitting the kitchen sink side of the bathroom wall and circulated back around the front half of the camper, and the other 1/2 of the air moves down the hall and around the rear bunk end since the stove top is about bunk height. Now we had to move it during daytime and just point it at the front.

We have only done it this way with outside temps down into the low 40's. But it seemed to keep the camper temps balanced.

Very ingenious for 40°. But at 0° it's a little different.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:40 PM   #15
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Newbie question. I thought heat strips in the A/C would heat the inside of the TM...
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Old 09-24-2014, 12:54 AM   #16
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Not all units have the heat strip installed. Mine does not.

Looking at the specs it seems like the heat strip puts out about 5000 BTU, same as an ordinary 1500 watt space heater.

The main propane furnace is the "big heat." Mine is 17,500 BTU.

If the trailer is well buttoned up 5000 BTU gets me about 20 degrees difference between the outside temp. You mileage may vary.

By "button up" I mean.

Towels across all the flaps
A towel across the bottom area of the door
Curtains closed
Reflectix behind the curtains
Rolled fleece blankets along the three outside edges of the bed
Glad Press and Seal to seal off the roof vents
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Old 09-24-2014, 06:27 AM   #17
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That heat strip is described by the air conditioner manufacturer as a "chill chaser", and the Owner's manual is clear that you cannot expect it to replace a furnace.

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Old 09-24-2014, 08:45 AM   #18
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Should be called the "warming strip" kinda like a plate warmer
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:05 AM   #19
tentcamper
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I think the heat strip heating feels more cooler because of the larger air movement and it always moving air even when the demand has been met by the thermostat.
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:26 PM   #20
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I am wintering over in my 94 2720 (see post in general discussion forum on skirting for details and photos). I am running a 6/9/1500w oil-filled radiator plugged into the outlet near the range and a 6/1200w electric element with fan on the floor by the collapsed dinette table running off of an extension cord from the outside power hookup. Even without the skirting or the Thermozite on the windows (both of which I just installed this weekend), and without doing any extra insulating of the flaps, it gets downright toasty in here even with temps in the low 20s outside. With the Thermozite and the skirting, I am probably okay down to 0. If it gets colder, I replaced the AC unit with an AC/heat combo unit (LG LW7014HR) and used some excess Thermozite and skirting to block off the outside louvers. That AC unit is good for another 1260W, and if all else fails I can fire up the propane furnace.

Hope this helps!

Jon
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