Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,100
Deb -
I really like that idea! Well done.
Just a quick reminder that I'm sure you already have in mind. When winterizing, you must be sure that the pump inlet can back-drain into the tank, and the new filter can drain in whatever direction is appropriate. No loops in the tubing that prevent it.
Bill
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2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL)
2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L Bill's Tech Stuff album
One useful hint. If you need to get access to stuff in that terribly-crowded area under the sink, start by taking off the doors. A Phillips screwdriver, I think, will make quick work of it. When the doors are off, remove the stile - the vertical piece between the doors. Same Phillips screwdriver. This will give you much better access to the area - and will prevent you from breaking the doors or hinges as you work.
Bill
Also - you will find that if you remove the drain and P-trap, you will have a LOT more room to maneuver.
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2008 2720SL “The Kobayashi Maru”
2006 Toyota 4Runner, SR5, 4L V6
Just a quick reminder that I'm sure you already have in mind. When winterizing, you must be sure that the pump inlet can back-drain into the tank, and the new filter can drain in whatever direction is appropriate. No loops in the tubing that prevent it.
Bill
Hi Bill. I have a Camco by-pass valve installed for the winterizing the pump and plumbing with RV anti-freeze, so no problem for the pump and filter. And I always run the pump dry for several seconds before I start pulling "the pink stuff" into the system, so there shouldn't be enough water in that line from the tank to cause any problems.
But good point for anyone that doesn't have that set-up. The other option with this new pump location is that if you wanted, it would be simple enough to remove the pump for winter.
I am actually considering using those 3M Command adhesive strips to secure the pad to the top of the tank. It would be dead easy to remove if I had to... easier than alien tape. Unscrew the wire nut on the negative wire, pull the connector on the red power wire, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines and just take the whole thing out.
Edit... Sorry for the sideways picture... Don't know why it does that. But it's just the thumbnail I guess. Open the picture and it's correctly oriented.
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2008 2720SL “The Kobayashi Maru”
2006 Toyota 4Runner, SR5, 4L V6
Thanks people. Love the quick responses. I just got back from my first trip of the year and already closed the TM. Ill re-open it in a couple of days and post some pictures. The water pump was one of 3 three things that broke this year.
Ok so removing the sink maybe seems like a bad idea since no one had any positive feedback on that. But removing the doors and stile, and most likely the trap/drain pipe under the sink should give me enough room to remove the pump. Maybe I could swap it out, but im going to assume that the Shurflo 4008 Revolution wont be a perfect fit and I may have to relocate the pump vs. trying to do any plumbwork back there.
If I need/want to relocate it... Deb Mac, a couple questions for you...
So you cut the vinyl outgoing side and just used PEX with a hose clamp? Did you just use a pipecutter tool? Maybe a hacksaw. I can see that pipe cracking if I tried to cut it.
The incoming side I think is already PEX, so you just used a male-male fitting to extend that to the pump?
Is the pump just mounted to the plywood and resting on a piece of foam?
Thanks people. Love the quick responses. I just got back from my first trip of the year and already closed the TM. Ill re-open it in a couple of days and post some pictures. The water pump was one of 3 three things that broke this year.
Ok so removing the sink maybe seems like a bad idea since no one had any positive feedback on that. But removing the doors and stile, and most likely the trap/drain pipe under the sink should give me enough room to remove the pump. Maybe I could swap it out, but im going to assume that the Shurflo 4008 Revolution wont be a perfect fit and I may have to relocate the pump vs. trying to do any plumbwork back there.
If I need/want to relocate it... @Deb Mac, a couple questions for you...
So you cut the vinyl outgoing side and just used PEX with a hose clamp? Did you just use a pipecutter tool? Maybe a hacksaw. I can see that pipe cracking if I tried to cut it.
The incoming side I think is already PEX, so you just used a male-male fitting to extend that to the pump?
Is the pump just mounted to the plywood and resting on a piece of foam?
Hi Stratty. The outgoing line was pex. I cut that off (that's the piece with the 2 rt angle connectors in my picture) and replaced it with 1/2" braided vinyl tubing (you can see a piece of it in the right upper corner of that same picture). I cut out that section of pex, with a pex cutter. I used a 1/2" barbed pex connector, crimped it to the cut end of pex that goes to the rest of the system (I have pex crimping tools), and used small gear clamps to attach the vinyl tubing to that, as well as the female threaded connection to the pump. Same fittings that are already there - but I put all new ones in. No point in messing around with 15 year old fittings!
The incoming line was already 1/2" vinyl tubing. It comes up from the bottom of the fresh water tank and up to the inlet on the left side of the pump head (if you are facing the pump as it is mounted on the wall). Just took the old tubing off, and replaced it with new vinyl. It comes out of the fresh water tank from a barbed fitting, attached with a small gear clamp, and uses the same threaded fitting as is already there. But I used all new fittings.
The picture of the pump in place on the tank shows the outgoing line coming off the right side of the pump.
Regarding a replacement pump - that OEM pump is no longer available, and the 4008-101-A65 Revolution is the replacement that Pentair/Shurflo has for it. It is the same dimensions, except the pump head is 4 chamber instead of 3, and would fit just fine in the same spot on the wall, if you really want to put it back there. I just chose to locate it some place that I can actually reach.
The plywood is glued to that foam pad, and the pump is screwed into the plywood and part way into the foam using the same screws that came out of the wall with the original pump. The foam is attached with 3M Command velcro to the top of the tank, so it can be easily removed if needed. No screws into the tank.
I'll be going back to the trailer tomorrow and can take a couple of pictures of the current set up to help clarify what I mean. I have included a slightly brighter copy of the pump located on the tank, so you can see the thing a little better. That is the outlet you see on the right side of the picture, and if you look on the left, there are 2 sections of pex behind everything. The one farther back is the out-going line from the pump to the trailer. The vinyl tubing coming from the new pump goes back and is connected to that with a crimp ring on the pex and gear clamp on the vinyl.
You can get the threaded connectors (Shurflo) on amazon, all of the pex stuff - cutter, connectors, crimp gear at Homedepot, Lowes, Menard's, etc.
__________________
2008 2720SL “The Kobayashi Maru”
2006 Toyota 4Runner, SR5, 4L V6
Hi Stratty. The outgoing line was pex. I cut that off (that's the piece with the 2 rt angle connectors in my picture) and replaced it with 1/2" braided vinyl tubing (you can see a piece of it in the right upper corner of that same picture). I cut out that section of pex, with a pex cutter. I used a 1/2" barbed pex connector, crimped it to the cut end of pex that goes to the rest of the system (I have pex crimping tools), and used small gear clamps to attach the vinyl tubing to that, as well as the female threaded connection to the pump. Same fittings that are already there - but I put all new ones in. No point in messing around with 15 year old fittings!
The incoming line was already 1/2" vinyl tubing. It comes up from the bottom of the fresh water tank and up to the inlet on the left side of the pump head (if you are facing the pump as it is mounted on the wall). Just took the old tubing off, and replaced it with new vinyl. It comes out of the fresh water tank from a barbed fitting, attached with a small gear clamp, and uses the same threaded fitting as is already there. But I used all new fittings.
The picture of the pump in place on the tank shows the outgoing line coming off the right side of the pump.
Regarding a replacement pump - that OEM pump is no longer available, and the 4008-101-A65 Revolution is the replacement that Pentair/Shurflo has for it. It is the same dimensions, except the pump head is 4 chamber instead of 3, and would fit just fine in the same spot on the wall, if you really want to put it back there. I just chose to locate it some place that I can actually reach.
The plywood is glued to that foam pad, and the pump is screwed into the plywood and part way into the foam using the same screws that came out of the wall with the original pump. The foam is attached with 3M Command velcro to the top of the tank, so it can be easily removed if needed. No screws into the tank.
I'll be going back to the trailer tomorrow and can take a couple of pictures of the current set up to help clarify what I mean. I have included a slightly brighter copy of the pump located on the tank, so you can see the thing a little better. That is the outlet you see on the right side of the picture, and if you look on the left, there are 2 sections of pex behind everything. The one farther back is the out-going line from the pump to the trailer. The vinyl tubing coming from the new pump goes back and is connected to that with a crimp ring on the pex and gear clamp on the vinyl.
You can get the threaded connectors (Shurflo) on amazon, all of the pex stuff - cutter, connectors, crimp gear at Homedepot, Lowes, Menard's, etc.
Makes total sense. Thank you so much. I was able to get the pump out today and just ordered the replacement. I for some reason didnt notice that all that tubing was PEX. I for some reason thought it was some other PVC comparable piping for potable water. I feel less scared of damaging the pipes now.
It’s hard to see exactly what is going where back there!! If i had longer arms and better eyes, I might have put the new pump back on the wall. But I had so much trouble just touching it let alone trying to screw the fittings on and off the thing. And that is just the distance between being able to see with or without my glasses. Too close without, and too far with… so the relocation was my best option. So glad I did!
I was going to take a couple of closer pics for you, but got into some frustration plumbing with my waste valve installation… now have a tiny drip from the grey tank where it connects the 1 1/2” pipe.
“If it ain’t one thing it’s another.” Rosanne Rosannadanna
Good luck with your installation. The revolution pump is nice and quiet too!
__________________
2008 2720SL “The Kobayashi Maru”
2006 Toyota 4Runner, SR5, 4L V6
But removing the doors and stile, and most likely the trap/drain pipe under the sink should give me enough room to remove the pump. Maybe I could swap it out, but im going to assume that the Shurflo 4008 Revolution wont be a perfect fit and I may have to relocate the pump vs. trying to do any plumbwork back there.
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