How should the 2'nd TV outlet be connected?

While pursuing my Gray water tank adventure I am looking at everything that is not accessible when the Tub is installed. I noticed that the 2'nd TV panel back by the bed and converter panel has a single coax cable connected to the 2'nd TV connector. I think that is an output, not an input. Looks like it should be connected to Cable input, if the signal is already amplified by the other panel. Or if not, it should connect to the Ant connector. Does anyone know?

Update .... I have done some research. The panel, RV 7042, is a power supply not an amplifier. The Amp is in the antenna. I still don't know how to wire the 2'nd panel, but I now know it does no good to turn it "ON" the way it was wired.

[Bill]

Al -

The antenna is a Winegard Sensar. You can find hookup instructions in the antenna manual that came with your TM - it's in the blue binder. If you don't have the manual, you can find it on-line in the Manuals section of the Winegard web site. Rummage around until you find a link for the RV3095.

Bill

Here is the link for the installation instructions for the RV Bat Wing antennas.

http://www.winegard.com/mobile/pdf/2452013.pdf

Here is the link for the RV Wall Plate/Power Supply. It clearly shows that the second wall plate should not include the power supply.

http://www.winegard.com/mobile/pdf/2451486.pdf

The second wall plate should be a TG7221.

"TG-7221 INDOOR TV OUTLET/+12 VDC RECEPTACLE
82 channel TV outlet. 75 ohm coax cable input/output connections, +12 VDC “cigarette lighter” receptacle. Flush mounted in electrical box or on plaster straps. Ivory, plaster straps included."

Perhaps they ran out at the factory and substituted the P S plate.

My question is now: How do you hook up an RV2042 to act like a TG7221?

[Bill]

Al -

If I understand what you are saying, your second wall plate has the power supply module, and it shouldn't. In that case, I would simply remove the power supply module, and substitute a simple cable coupler, also known as a double-ended F-connector coupler. Radio Shack has them as item 278-304 ($2.69). You can buy them most anywhere - Home Depot, WalMart, Ace Hardware, Best Buy, etc.

The TG7221 has a cigarette lighter receptacle, and a cable coupler, and nothing else, so that is what you are building.

When you take the RV-2042 apart, you'll find that the 12-volt supply wire is connected to the power supply module. So as you remove the power supply module (leaving the cigarette lighter receptacle in place), you have to move the 12-volt feed wire directly to the cig lighter receptacle.

Unless I'm not understanding the problem ...

Bill

Bill;

That about sums it up. I have a spare power supply and I'll replace it with a lighter socket and an F connector I already have.

While I'm under the tub I'm bringing the wiring up to my standards.
Battery shut off switch,
Plug, screen and better mount for the exhaust fan.
Tie wrap the wiring.
Sleeving around wires going through the aluminum skin etc.

Al

[Bill]

Al -

After further reflection and study of the Winegard drawing, I have to ask myself what would be wrong with leaving the TV outlet plate just as it is? The cable from the front of the TM would be connected to the center connector on the back of the plate, the one labelled CABLE in Fig 13 of your first reference. Now, as long as the little button isn't pressed (the little light is out, in other words), this CABLE input is connected directly to the jack on the center of the wall plate. Which is exactly what you want. If you inadvertently press the little button, the wall plate will switch to the input labelled ANTENNA DOWNLEAD, but of course there is nothing there so you don't get any picture. But no harm is done.

In other words, the back of the wall plate has places to connect 3 cables - ANTENNA DOWNLEAD, CABLE, and SET 2 OUTPUT. To use this as a TG7221, you connect the cable from the front of the trailer to CABLE, and simply don't connect anything to ANTENNA or SET 2. Done.

By the way, that is an awful rat's nest of wires back there, isn't it? Do you plan to shorten up all those Romex cables? If so, be sure to leave a couple extra feet as a service loop, so you can pull the converter out of the wall - that is the normal access to the converter and its wiring.

One other thing I noticed in the photo. Just to the left of the right toe of your boot, you can see where the hot and cold water pipes come out of their channel in the floor. I bet it would be possible to snake a heat tape back up through this channel to the other end of the channel (under the kitchen sink). There has been another active thread about freeze-proofing the TM, asking how to freeze-proof these water supply lines. This may be the answer. It would require closing the air-infiltration areas, such as the big square cutout around the drain - but as long as you have the tub off the floor, that is easy to do.

Bill