Leaky Hot Water Tank

[logcabin]

Our hot water tank is leaking under the sink
2004 2720SL
Can we fill and use the cold water without filling the hot water tank?
If so, we could then try to find out the cause of the leak and fix it.

THANKS!

[commodor47]

To my knowledge there is no way to isolate the hot water tank from the rest of the water system unless the system has been modified to include a shut off valve either before or after the tank. It will fill when connected to city water and when operating the 12 volt pump (fills from the inside fresh water tank).

I have experienced what seemed to be a leak in the hot water tank but discovered it was just condensation forming between the outside tank wall and the insulation.

Dick

[ThePair]

If you start with fully drained lines, and fill the fresh water tank and use the pump, I don't think the hot water tank or lines will fill as long as you keep all the hot taps closed. The air lock within the lines should prevent filling, which is why you have to open all the hot taps prior to turning on the heater, to make sure the air is purged and the tank is full.

My 2 cents...

[Bill]

Originally Posted by logcabin

Our hot water tank is leaking under the sink. Can we fill and use the cold water without filling the hot water tank?

You say "the tank is leaking". But we (and you) really need to know whether the leak is in the tank itself, or at the fitting at the inlet to the tank, or the fitting at the outlet of the tank.

Check the diagram at
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...&pictureid=435
to understand how it is all plumbed together. You can see that as Dick says, there is no specific way to isolate the tank and its fittings.

And as ThePair says, if you drain the tank, then pressurize the system, the water heater won't fill as long as you leave the hot water faucets off. But if the leak is in the fitting at the inlet to the tank, it will still drip. This is actually a good trouble-shooting step. Drain the tank, then hook up pressurized water. If the leak restarts almost immediately, then it is probably at the tank inlet.

You can start by using a wrench to tighten the fittings at the tank inlet and the tank outlet. Be firm but gentle - some of these are plastic fittings, not metal. This may eliminate the leak. Or if there is a broken fitting, it will probably become obvious as you do this.

It is possible, but I think unlikely, that the tank itself is leaking in a 2004, especially if the anode rod was changed at some point. When you get the leak fixed, you might consider unscrewing the anode rod for a visual check of its condition.

Let us know what you find.

Bill

[Shane826]

Sidebar: How often should the anode rod be changed?

[Bill]

I've heard several opinions, but a common rule of thumb seems to be about every 5 years. A great deal depends, of course, on how acidic your water is, and whether you leave the water heater filled or empty while the trailer is in storage. For us TM owners, a better rule of thumb might be to check it when the trailer is four years old or so. If it is completely corroded away, then replace it and remind yourself to check it again in two years. But if it is still in good shape, leave a note for 4 more years.

Household water heaters also have an anode rod, though few people know it and almost nobody changes it. And most household water heaters have a warranty period of 7 years. Do you think there might be a connection ... ?

Bill

[DanSTL]

Almost replaced (ran out of time) the anode rod tonight on new to me TM ahead of maiden voyage next weekend (obvious now PO never changed) and found small leak at back of water heater that appears to have been present for some time based on assessment of floor. Now looking at amount of rust at water supply lines and anode, does this water heater look like a definite goner or is it possible the leak is just at the anode rod and this rust is just surface rust and normal ?

If I need to replace the entire water heater, what is my risk in using it 1x during maiden voyage (next week) with a small leak?

If high, will have to head out on maiden trip with no hot water, but willing to use it with small risk and be vigilant and have a bucket staged, just no idea how bad it could get? Appreciate any thoughts ?

[Bill]

I can't offer any professional advice, but let me pass on some thoughts. Other members will do the same.

How old is your water heater - i.e., what year is your trailer?

As the diagram shows, the only way to isolate the water heater is to undo the inlet fitting, and cap off the pipe. If you do this, be sure to turn off the electric and gas heating elements first.

Almost replaced (ran out of time) the anode rod tonight on new to me TM

Did you get as far as actually putting a wrench on the rod and trying to turn it? I think you are saying that you did not, and in this case, that is good since turning it might open new leak paths.

...appears to have been present for some time

I agree that your pictures seem to show this

...is it possible the leak is just at the anode rod and this rust is just surface rust and normal?

I don't think it is normal.

...what is my risk in using it 1x with a small leak?

If you are worried about a sudden massive failure, I think the risk is low. It will continue to leak as before, of course.

My non-professional assessment would be that since the leak is long-standing, you can use it, at least in the near term, with some precautions.
o If you leave the camper for any length of time, turn off the water supply or the pump, and relieve the system pressure by turning on any faucet and letting it run for several seconds
o Before going to bed, turn off the water supply and relieve the system pressure.
o Be sure you know where the system drain valves are located, and practice opening them once or twice. They are outside, under the trailer on the road (left) side. Two are just ahead of the left tire, the other two are a couple feet behind the left tire. The ones ahead of the tire will drain the water heater fastest. Don't burn yourself when you open them.
o In case the leak suddenly gets worse, have a bundle of cloth towels handy, and a couple rolls of paper towels.
o In your driveway, fill the water heater, pressurize the system, and watch it for an hour or so. If the leak remains a dribble, and doesn't get worse, you are probably OK for your maiden voyage.

The water heater may have to be replaced, but when you get home, it would cheap and easy to remove the anode rod, flush out the tank, install a new rod, and see what happens.

Bill

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by DanSTL

Almost replaced (ran out of time) the anode rod tonight on new to me TM ahead of maiden voyage next weekend (obvious now PO never changed) and found small leak at back of water heater that appears to have been present for some time based on assessment of floor. Now looking at amount of rust at water supply lines and anode, does this water heater look like a definite goner or is it possible the leak is just at the anode rod and this rust is just surface rust and normal ?

Your first photo shows heavy rust including and surrounding the anode rod socket, but you second photo (i'm not sure of the angle in this shot) shows something, the sheet metal rusted heavily rusted on the outside of the anode rod socket too. Is it rusted all the way through, towards the "top" of the holding flange in your photo? That would be bad, although the seal of the socket with the tank interior might still be unaffected.

What's going on with the rear bottom of tank (hidden by foam) is also an issue. I'd peel away a bit of that foam, along with any additional insulation (towards the right side of the picture- in order to and check for rust damage through the bottom of the tank body, before considering to be possibly usable in even a short trip.

Even if it can be pressurized after a new anode rod, the tank is probably near end-of-life from poor maintenance. I'd replace it.

[Bill]

Sound advice, Rick. The original post made reference to "water supply lines", which are shown in the last picture. I don't see any rust there, though.

Bill