GMC Safari AWD

We are relatively new TM owners purchasing our TM in Oct. 02. I was initially concerned with towing a 3023 with the Safari, however after over 2,000 miles I am pleased with the combination. The Safari has plenty of HP and performed well even across I-40 through the Appalachians and on up I-75 through Tennessee and KY.

One question I have for the veteran TM owners and specifically anyone towing with a Safari. The backend seems to squat significantly even with a WDH.

Now, I am sure some of you are going to ask what type of WDH hitch I am using. I am a little fuzzy on this one. Since we bought the TM used and it came with the hitch. I believe it is a Reese WDH with friction sway control incorporated into the spring bars. Looking at a tag on one of the spring bars it has a "V5" listed on it and reads:
"350 lb. wt. distributing spring bar
Max. Hitch Wt. (2 Bars) 350#
Max. Gross Trialer Wt. 3500#"

Now... I am assuming the 350# hitch wt. is for both bars together based on the label. I am guessing this is on the light side for the TM. In addition, on our last trip we had the TM weighed and it came in at 3600# hitched to the Safari.

So, I am guessing my hitch set-up is marginally adequate at best. Anyone agree?

Assuming, this set-up is not optimum does anyone have any suggestions? I have been looking at the Equalizer on-line, any opinions? I really want something with sway control integrated into the WDH hitch. Unlike many on this site I have encountered sway with the 3023. My sway incident occurred with 4 bikes loaded on a bike rike attached to the rear bumper. I have since gone to two bikes on the rack. However, I would like the added security of anti-sway as part of my hitch assembly.

I am open to all advice and comments.

Thanks,

Keith

[Sinclue]

Keith,

We have a '98 Safari and tow a 2001 2720sl. I use an EAZ lift WD hitch rated for #7500 (tongue weight of 750#). My rig had an approx tongue weight of almost 400# (yours should be about the same maybe 20-30# more). Sounds like your current setup isn't going to give you the lift you need. From the picture it didn't seem to squat, but then it probably wasn't loaded for travel. Also remember that there will be "squat' no matter what, you need to have both the front and the back ends "squatting" relatively the same amount.

Two other factors that affect the setup are how far back your hitch is (closer is better but not so close as to inhibit turning)and the angle of your hitch ball. There are many here who have more expertise in explaining how to set them up. I have found that I've had to make adjustments depending on the relative loads, usually in the form of changing the number of links I "drop".

I have the anti sway device too, but have never used it or felt the need. Maybe your adding the weight of bicycles, etc to the bumper had a negative effect that caused a greater tendency to sway? Weight added to the bumper has a greater effect on the trailer's balance and tracking than weght inside. I don't know how much your four bikes, bike rack, etc. weighed, but that could be the source of your sway problem. Maybe a bike rack on top of the van would be an option?

jim

[Bill]

Yup, sounds like you need to move up to the next beefier Reese hitch. With your current setup, you are unable to distribute enough of the TM's tongue weight to the front wheels of the tow vehicle. The result is that the rear end of the tow vehicle squats, and the front end rises. When you unload the front end, it is a guaranteed recipe for sway.

As an example of a more appropriate hitch, try this.

o Go to http://www.reeseprod.com
o Click on PRODUCTS
o Click on WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
o Click on TRUNNION WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION and scroll down to see Trunnion Hitches. Jot down some of the hitch Part Numbers. I have 66022, but it is overkill. I would feel comfortable with 750 pound hitch capacity, but I think 500 pounds would be kinda marginal.

These high-performance ball mount trunnion hitches work well with friction sway control, so if you want to hang onto your friction setup, you can do it. Or, if you want sway control truly integrated with the hitch/springbars, click once more ....

o Click on DUAL CAM SWAY CONTROL and scroll down. Lots of good info in this panel. Among other things, you will see some of the above-noted Trunnion Hitches, combined with Dual Cam Sway Control.

This is a nice way to go, better than friction sway control, and a lot cheaper than the Equalizer - which is also a great hitch, by the way.

Bill

They sway was almost certainly a result of the bikes on the back levering too much weight off the tongue. When that situation occurs you get sway. I sometimes travel with bikes in the TM, on the floor in front of the couch.

It does sound like you need heavier bars. I have the Equalizer between my 3023 (actually a 1990 M-26) and Ford Ranger. Performs like a champ. I have had no noticed sway despite winds and a couple emergency avoidance manuvers. Towed it over 7000 miles so far, from NJ to Maine, to Colorado.

One other thought is that some of the GMC/Chevy vans came with some sort of composite fiberglass single leaf spring. Seems that anyone towing always wanted steel springs as the others were too soft. Don't know if you have them or not. As I recall they had the same ratings.

Camperboy

[dlajoie]

On July 25th, we drove from Augusta, ME to Hyannis, MA to pick up our new 2720SL. We averaged 19.4 MPG cruising at 70 MPH. On the return trip using the same route and hauling the new 2720SL, we averaged 14.9 MPG. That is more of a difference than normally advertised for Safari/Astro. However, there were extenuating circumstances. We drove down on the 24th in about 4 hours. The drive back on the afternoon of the 25th took 6 hours, largely due to traffic delays. One delay was nearly an hour of stop and go crawling getting off Cape Cod. The other hours delay was due to construction at various locations. We used the U-Haul class III hitch with the reciever inverted upward to level the TM. We decided not to buy the weight distribution hitch that day and had no problems with sagging or with handling. Admittedly, both the TM and the Safari were empty. We may well yet need a weight distribution hitch after we load everything on board deemed essential to camping.

[dcrdark]

We have a 3023 and tow with a Ford Aerostar. Our WDH is a Reese at the 800# rating, the Dealer suggested it. We had the same problem with sag and sway. I had to experiment with the number of links that needed to be dropped. Once I had figured this out, we have no problem.

[dlajoie]

We have a 2000 GMC Safari w/ tow package. We have a U-Haul Class III hitch without W/D or sway bars. We inverted the receiver to elevate the ball. Both vehicle and our new 2720SL appear relatively level and tows just fine.

[dlajoie]

Has anyone heard of a good replacement for the Safari/Astro after GM stops production in 2005? We have had a Safari since 1990. Sold the first one after 12 years and 190,000 miles. Our 2000 will last for some years to come but we are at a loss to find a vehicle that has the combination of attributes that the Safari/Astro has. It is always fun to dream about what your next TV will be. To me, the Safari is the ideal TV for a 2720SL. Any suggestions out there?

We agree...the Safari/Astro van is a great TM tow vehicle. We have a 98 AWD GMC Astro with 103K miles. Hearing about the demise of this product we went ahead and bought a 2003 AWD Chevy Astro. SO we should be good on tow vehicles for awhile. Sorry I don't have any recommendations for a comparable replacement. The only choice we felt was a full size van.

Hi everyone, my wife and I just ordered a 2005 3124 KB the other day and was wondering if I could get some input or advice about my towing situation.
First we are going to tow with our 2003 Chevy Astro van AWD (factory tow package 3:42 rear gear) - I am purchasing a model 1722B Equa-lizer hitch (10,000 lbs model) and a prodigy brake controller.

I have towed many trailers but not many with brakes - and none with a WDH.
We are fairly new to camping and trying to get educated about this whole WDH towing deal.

Do any of you Astro/Safari owners use a set of the extended mirrors or do the factory mirrors work fine?

Does the factory tow package wiring harness have a large enough (key hot) power wire to run the fridge in 12V mode while traveling? (dealer says the wire size should be no less than 10 guage).

Any and all advice will be greatly appreiciated!!!

Brad