2001 2720SL Side-mount A/C Unit Replacement Suggestions

08-09-2010, 02:48 PM

I just purchased a slightly used 2001 2720SL. Have searched the site re: problems associated with the side A/C units, but have not seen any after-action reports or updates about replacement or units which work well in this application.

I'm not sure yet if I need to replace or just remove, clean, and check the unit out from top to bottom in order to get maximum cooling. My unit lost cooling capability after a day & a half...may have frozen...may be low on freon...hydrator may have gone south...etc.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Chaps 07

**ShrimpBurrito** · 08-09-2010, 03:01 PM

I have no idea what could be wrong, but I can tell you that if I had a 9-10 year old AC unit in a trailer and it wasn't working, I would not even try to find out what's wrong with it. At $100-$150, I would simply buy and slide in a new one.

Dave

08-09-2010, 03:30 PM

Dave,

Totally concur. Will try it this next weekend, see if it performs. If not, I will buy & slide.

Still looking for recommendations on units. Talked with Ed at TrailManor customer service and he seemed to think there might be some units better than others & that there might be some smaller 8.5-9K BTU units which some owners have found to perform better than any 10-10.5 K BTU units.

Also have to get the dimensions for best fit & finish. So, if you hear of any recommendations or news those of us with side units might use I'd surely appreciate all!

Blessings,
Chaps07

**wbmiller3** · 08-09-2010, 04:03 PM

I did this and used the model referenced in this thread: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=9014

Our trailer is a 2001 also. Feel free to ask if you have other questions after reading through this. I wouldn't say it was a fun job but the new AC is a lot better.

Wavery · 08-09-2010, 05:36 PM

We are taking ours to the Kern River for 8 days, leaving this weekend. It's supposed to be

in the high 90's (which probably means over 100

).

We have used it in the 90's before and found that we really had to seal up all the air leaks in the camper. Once we did that, the A/C performed very well. If you don't fill all of the various gaps with something, few A/C units will perform that well in 90-100 degree heat.

A fan is needed to circulate the air in the camper.

08-09-2010, 06:17 PM

Bill, Carolyn & Wayne,
Appreciate your guidance and the links to your replacements and procedures. Gretch and I are looking for a way to negate the seams in the trailer. Some have suggested swimming noodles; we'll try them next...still, we would welcome any and all suggestions.

Do you have any shots of how you finished out the exterior vents once the replacement units were placed & braced? Also, Bill did you use the same or a similar model to Wayne. Please advise.

How did you finally keep the exhaust air from flowing back into your 2720SL's? Thanks for all!

Blessings,
Chaps07

Wavery · 08-09-2010, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaps07

Bill, Carolyn & Wayne,
Appreciate your guidance and the links to your replacements and procedures. Gretch and I are looking for a way to negate the seams in the trailer. Some have suggested swimming noodles; we'll try them next...still, we would welcome any and all suggestions.

Do you have any shots of how you finished out the exterior vents once the replacement units were placed & braced? Also, Bill did you use the same or a similar model to Wayne. Please advise.

How did you finally keep the exhaust air from flowing back into your 2720SL's? Thanks for all!

Blessings,
Chaps07

I think these pics might help. The 10,000BTU A/C unit that I (and I believe Bill has) was ~almost a direct replacement for the original A/C unit. We had to cut a little more out of the top of the cabinet front (3/8" if I remember correctly).

This is the one that I installed (2 years ago):
10,000 BTU Cool
9.8 EER
With Remote
Unit Dimensions:
20 3/32"w, 13 7/8"h, 19 3/8"d.
This unit is made to fit windows or thru-the-wall. Comes with a sleeve and a window kit.

Shipping Weight: 69lbs.
$252.00
LG Model LWHD1006R

You may be able to find something even better now.

Check here:
http://www.aafeders.com/products/ac/window&wallac/#10

08-09-2010, 07:10 PM

Awesome. I even have a couple of vents ready for the intake and exhaust. Love your creativity and your willingness to help.

Will let you know how my test goes this weekend & if a replacement is required. Also look forward to tapping into your ready knowledge of batteries, solar power, & sailing.

Have fun on your trip this week.

Blessings,
Chaps07

**wbmiller3** · 08-10-2010, 09:39 PM

I used the exact model Wayne did. I had to enlarge the opening in the cabinets a little bit but otherwise it fit well. I also drilled holes in the integral drip pan so that I would not have water sloshing into the cabin on the way home. This might require a bit of explanation: The ac (like the factory ac) has an integral drip pan that will hold about half an inch of water in humid weather. When we packed up and went home, this water sloshed into the trailer interior and caused mildew. I took the factory ac out and drilled holes so that the integral drip pan can drip into the trailer's drip pan. This fixed the problem. I did the same with the replacement ac.

Major Downside: YOU CAN RUIN THE AC IF YOU DRILL INTO SOMETHING IMPORTANT.
Minor Downside: Doing this can drop the efficiency of the a/c as explained on a post somewhere in the forum (the water is actually used to cool some components in the ac). So on the replacement unit I drilled the holes higher as a compromise allowing a small amount of water to be retained.

Also, I totally agree with Wayne on this: You will need a floor fan in the trailer 'hall' to blow the cold air out to the end of the trailer. Otherwise only the 'hall' gets cold.

Wavery · 08-10-2010, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbmiller3

I used the exact model Wayne did. I had to enlarge the opening in the cabinets a little bit but otherwise it fit well. I also drilled holes in the integral drip pan so that I would not have water sloshing into the cabin on the way home. This might require a bit of explanation: The ac (like the factory ac) has an integral drip pan that will hold about half an inch of water in humid weather. When we packed up and went home, this water sloshed into the trailer interior and caused mildew. I took the factory ac out and drilled holes so that the integral drip pan can drip into the trailer's drip pan. This fixed the problem. I did the same with the replacement ac.

Major Downside: YOU CAN RUIN THE AC IF YOU DRILL INTO SOMETHING IMPORTANT.
Minor Downside: Doing this can drop the efficiency of the a/c as explained on a post somewhere in the forum (the water is actually used to cool some components in the ac). So on the replacement unit I drilled the holes higher as a compromise allowing a small amount of water to be retained.

Also, I totally agree with Wayne on this: You will need a floor fan in the trailer 'hall' to blow the cold air out to the end of the trailer. Otherwise only the 'hall' gets cold.

The condensation pan holds about 1/2" of water. The condenser fan has a "Slinger" in it. The slinger picks up water from the pan and sprays it on the condenser which increases the condenser's ability to remove heat. This will add some cooling capacity to the A/C unit but not a tremendous amount.

There is a rubber plug in the back side of the drain pan. There should be a way to remove the plug and install a hose nipple. You could put a hose that could run to the outside of the trailer and put a shut-off valve on it. Open the valve to drain the pan before leaving. That way, you get the best of both worlds.

I didn't do it because we don't get enough humidity here to cause water to build up in the pan.