snow camping

[G-V_Driver]

There is a silver insulating and sun protection material sold for such use. When installed, it is approximately 1/2" thick, so it has reasonably good insulating qualities. It is somewhat compressible, and can be rolled up and stored fairly easily. Many airplanes use it with good results. Several companies offer kits for all most of the business-category airplanes. If you decide to use the material, there are a few things to consider:

It comes in rolls, and you would have to cut it to fit the TM windows. Not hard to do with a simple pattern, but the unfinished edge doesn't look all that great. The edges can be bound, but it takes some sewing.

Installation is normally accomplished either by wedging the material into the window frame or by use of velcro fasteners. Since TM's don' have window frames, velcro is the more obvious choice. If so, you must either make the pattern larger, so there will be some overlap on the walls to attach the velro, or you must mount the velcro pads around the outside edge of the windows.

If you want to pursue it, I will try to find out the name of the material, or you can look on the web at any pilot supply store.

B and D

I would love to know how you did the corner TV stand in the backbed. I thought about this before, to run the cable in the bath to the cable hookup. If you have a picture of it, Id like to see how you did it.

We camped last March in Boston where the temperature went down to 27 at night. Nothing froze, except out water pump because it is attached to the outside wall of the 2619. I should have left the bunk open for the air to warm, but didnt.

A few minutes with a hair dryer and we had water again. the water bibs at this park were insulated and had a heating wire. We were able to fill out water tanks during the day, then roll up the hose to prevent it from freezing

We also got water condensation around the front bed due to the velcro flaps. I am wondering if we used some type of insulation from the outside to stuff it in those area if it would have prevented some of this. Of course the windows also had a lot of condensation, so maybe the covers that G-V driver was talking about would help.

Thanks for the info. Id like to go camping in the Pocono Mts of Pennsylvania in March during spring break and can use any tips you have.

thanks

Since we were in one place for over a week, we ran the cable for cable TV into the bedroom from outside and plugged in the TV next to the wardrobe. It was so great to see the news in bed in the morning that when we moved on and had no cable, I connected the cable to the inside antenna connector out the flap and around the back to the bed area for local TV reception. I have an extra long cable.

I too am interested in the corner TV stand. Also, I am thinking of ordering the additional countertop drawer to use as a nightstand in the bed area, a great place to put the alarm clock, my coffee cup and the remote .

[quote author=Carol link=board=1;threadid=1595;start=msg11244#msg11244 date=1072996923]



I think that TrailManor should look into thermopane windows - it would help in the summer as well for reducing heat gain. The other area we found was very cold was the velcro seal areas - the insulation between the vinyl isn't the greatest!

[/quote]

Carol,

I agree 100%. When we first purchased our TM in 2000, I was surprised it didn't have dual pane windows. Condensation on the windows can be a problem, as is the transfer of heat through the windows -- just feel how cold they are in the early spring or late fall!

[G-V_Driver]

I learned more than I really wanted to know about cold wx camping a few years ago when we remodeled the house and needed a bed for " a couple of weeks max" per the contractor. He would keep one of the bathrooms available, but dust and other concerns would require sleeping somewhere else.

By the time we finally moved back in the house after 59 nights! in the camper, I had concluded that visqueen (plastic sheeting) and duct tape are invaluable. Both are cheap and available at any hardware store or Walmart. The most effective way to keep the trailer warm inside was to drape the plastic sheeting to the ground all around the perimeter of the trailer. The goal is to create an airtight space under the trailer, including the beds. It takes about an hour, and a box cutter (eek!) is handy, but it isn't particularly difficult. You should cut the plastic so there is about 12" margin lying on the ground to weight down with firewood, rocks, gravel, etc. With the TM's with the slide-out's, some thought should be given to arranging the material in order to vent the propane tanks. I recommend black visqueen for draping, due to passive solar heat gain.

Once the plastic is in place and air-tight, the little room under the trailer will have an amazing impact on comfort inside the trailer. A sheet of clear visqueen taped over the inside of the door (at night) and windows willl also create a dead-air space that is almost as good as double-pane windows for short-term use. It will eliminate the condensation and provide some insulation as well.

I've learned my lesson and don't ever intend to need any of this again, but thought I'd pass it along for those of you who haven't
I also found that a strip of duct tape over the crack where the rear bed meets the roof shell is very handy on my TM.

[Cateye]

I noted interest in methods to mount a TV/DVD in the bedroom area of the TrailManor. I also struggled with this problem and arrived at a solution that seems to work for us. The problem is mounting a stand or shelf SECURELY and without interfering with the operation of the TrailManor. The solution I arrived at uses a "takedown" shelf assembly made from aluminum tubing, bracketry and aluminum plate. The assembly can be described as a self supporting shelf with legs that extend a short distance under the end of the mattress. The top or shelf that holds the TV extends roughly 2 feet over and above the mattress. Rigidity is achieved with braces that do not interfere with the mattress. This makes viewing of a small screen very easy. It is light weight and can be assembled/disassembled without tools in a few minutes and stores flat. It is also very secure and "out of the way" while sleeping. FYI

[G-V_Driver]

I haven't done this yet, but here's the plan for the TV shelf in our 3124KS. I'd be interested in receiving any input from those more knowledgable than me (which probably includes almost everybody on this board.)

The materials required are a rectangular piece of finished 3/8" plywood, two hinges, two lengths of light chain and four small eyebolts. The concept is a fold-down shelf that attaches to the rear side of the closet at a height that will accommodate a small TV and clock while allowing plenty of room underneath for bedding and my XL feet.

The shelf will be as wide as the closet depth and deep enough to hold the TV. It will hinge (pivot) outward from the closet frame at the desired height. The chains will attach to the outward corners of the shelf and to the top of the frame. When unfolded, the shelf will extend at 90 degrees and be supported diagonally by the chains. I'd like to get a 45-degree support angle, but may have to settle for less.

When the closet is stored in the aisle for travel, the shelf will simply lie flat against the side of the closet, which happens to be the side that is on top, with the chains in the space beneath. I will probably rig some kind of wing-nut retainer (like the plastic one on the upper door) to keep the shelf from flopping, and to keep it out of the way when we don't use it.

I intend to run the cable from the cabinet in the LR up over the door and down the upper side wall so it won't interfere with traffic flow. A couple of small plastic clips would hold it in place and allow it to be easily removed for travel.

Your comments are welcomed. I plan to sell the kits for $99, but would make a special deal to TM'ers on this board. . . Like a cup of coffee at the next event

I know this is an old post but as an "owner to be," yes, I do not even have mine yet but with severe cold weather experience with my sons Pop-up I have a question regarding cold weather camping in a TM:

In his Pop-up when hooked-up to an electrical source he would turn-on his heater (radiant only) and then turn the "fan only" on his A/C to circulate the air. This had two advantages: the first being to "circulate" the air of course throughout the trailer and the second part was to reduce if not eliminate condensation. It kept the entire Pop-up front to rear as toasty as you could ever want.

Is the TM not able to utilize both systems like that?

[mjlaupp]

Quick answer - YES!

GREAT! Thanks for the response and a quick answer was more than sufficient. Scared me there for a moment. I did not want to believe that an older pop-up had a better solution for cold weather camping than TM.