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View Poll Results: Have you had rain water leak into your TM?
Yes 11 73.33%
No 4 26.67%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 07-24-2013, 06:10 AM   #31
ThePair
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For some reason my Firefox won't render the poll correctly, but I'll post here:

No. No rain leaks. 2009.5 model.

Just FYI as a data point.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:38 AM   #32
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Strange as it may seem, some of the front end leaks can occur where the antenna cable enters the roof at the base of the antenna. The rain boot will slip off or degrade, and water will run down the cable into the roof. From there it can show up anywhere. It has happened on both our TMs. I fill the hole and the boot with silicone, then press the boot down onto the base.

As to the poll in this thread, the original poll is from 2003, the server may not even have the data from the original poll. It's no surprise it does not appear correctly in the web page.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:46 AM   #33
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Question Application of 3M 4200 or 5200 - naked finger?

Do you use just a naked finger, or do you need to use one of those little blue "caulk applicator" tools to avoid chemicals on your fingers?
My original "roof side" caulk runs, front to back at the corners of the shells (against the long plastic corner pieces) are beginning to fail, I should re-do them. Probably 4200 "fast-setting", because I'm going on a lengthy trip in less than 30 days.
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:55 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBYRNE7844 View Post
We have a 2004 3326 and once in a while we will find water on top of the wardrobe. Not sure where it may be coming from. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Jimmy
If I recall correctly, the backing plate for the rooftop latch sits above the wardrobe when open. I had to take mine apart and re-bed everything soon after buying my 3326 a while back.
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:40 PM   #35
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You can not caulk over the old caulk. You need to check all the seams for loose caulk. Lots of posts on this. Use a hair drier to find loose caulk. Remove the old caulk and clean the area. The re-caulk using Dow 4200. Most RV's will eventually leak and need recaulking.
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Old 05-26-2014, 04:11 PM   #36
marmotsgrl
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Default lots of rain in Estes Park this weekend

This was our first trip in our 2720 and it did really well. The only thing was that the all of the sky lights and the TV antennae leaked. As much as it was raining and as hard as it was raining I think it did really well.
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Old 05-26-2014, 07:52 PM   #37
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No water leaks on my 2003.

there is no way to vote NO
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:17 PM   #38
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Had a couple of small leaks here and there, but removed old caulk and fixed just fine. Though the small leak over the window next to the door resulted damp curtains. Washed by hand. The fabric was discolored on the header, which I had to remove and replace.
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Old 10-22-2022, 06:58 AM   #39
rbhtrail
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2019 2720 QB, roof leak source: hole forward of ac where wires in the plastic wire chase ceiling, inside.
- with foam and plywood to displace my bodies load on roof, inspect to find opening void in caulk in between the roof seam separator sealer and ac housing. Plan to caulk opening today.
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Old 10-22-2022, 12:23 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vnmtm1 View Post
My wife and I are new to TM'ing and this forum. And yes, we have a roof leak.

We purchased our '03 3023 last year and took it out just 3 times before storing it in the garage for the winter. Each time out, we had measurable precipitation but no leaks during the first two trips. However, on the third trip out we were in a real downpour for over 2 hours and observed a steady stream (.25" wide) of water coming down the right side rear shell where the wall and roof meet. The water comes down and pools slightly just behind the stove and then drips down to the floor by the door. The leak would seem to be right where the front shell and rear shell overlap.

I did a quick inspection and did not see any gaps or obvious missing caulk before I put the TM away for the season, so I plan to do a careful check when I de-winterize, hopefully in March.
You'd be surprised how much water can leak even when there are no visible gaps. My preference is to use ProflexRV. It remains soft and doesn't have to be completely removed like silicone seal.

My technique is more involved, but seems to be guaranteed to work:
1) Remove vents/AC units.
2) Apply ProflexRV between where the vent or AC will attach to the trailer. If there is a riser, you need to remove both the riser and vent and do the same for between the riser and roof, and between the riser and vent.
3) Place the riser and vent into position.
4) Apply ProflexRV to the threads of the screws if using screws
5) Fasten the vent or AC.

I had tried resealing around vents without removing them and they still leaked. After doing this, I had no leaks.
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