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Old 07-07-2022, 10:05 PM   #11
coralcruze
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Ok so I verified the following:

1. My regulator does not have a date. However I am sure it's the original reg. that came with the TM so 16 years old. That is being replaced.

2. The LP alarm has a 2004 manf. date on it. Being replaced with CO and LP alarm.

3. Picking up new stainless steel pigtails as those last longer than the rubber lines.

So there is a main 48" X 3/8" rubber hose that goes from the regulator to the front lip on my 2720 TM. I would like to replace that line with a stainless steel line. But only finding 60" and 72" stainless not 48" what's gives? I would much rather not have extra length here. Does anyone know if I can get stainless LP lines custom made to length online or locally?

There is also another rubber line that is under the TM that I still need to ID and measure its length also. I believe that it splits and goes to the cooktop side and refrigerator side? Anyone know or does it just go to one side and the split is in the floor in copper? Anyway this line that is under the TM that too I wpuld like to upgrade to stainless. Steel. Any issues with this plan?

Thanks everyone.
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Old 07-08-2022, 05:36 AM   #12
Shane826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
Really? Never heard of, or experienced this. When I took my horizontal tanks in for recert, the tech emptied the propane in them into a big tank, then went through the recert process, then filled the tanks, giving me credit for the amount he emptied. Maybe you need to try another propane shop?

Bill
Probably supply chain issues for propane tank certifications. I think the certificates come from China.
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Old 07-08-2022, 07:48 AM   #13
Kidkraz
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CoralCruze, upgrading to stainless mesh lines for rubber is a good idea. Make sure you use the proper yellow teflon tape or sealant. As to replacing flex lines for rigid lines, that may not be a good change. If your copper lines are good and they don't leak, I would leave them alone.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-common-...-fittings.aspx
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Old 07-08-2022, 09:11 AM   #14
coralcruze
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Originally Posted by Kidkraz View Post
CoralCruze, upgrading to stainless mesh lines for rubber is a good idea. Make sure you use the proper yellow teflon tape or sealant. As to replacing flex lines for rigid lines, that may not be a good change. If your copper lines are good and they don't leak, I would leave them alone.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-common-...-fittings.aspx

Oh I am def. NOT switching out the copper lines. Those are fine. My comment above was because I don't know what's under thebTM. The first LP extension goes from the regulator to the front lip into a coupler goingbthrough the steel channel. And that line is 48" long... its a rubber hose which I am having a tough time finding in stainless in that length. Then after that lip under the TM I am unsure where that LP line goes. I am guessing that it splits to thr refrigerator and cooktop sides of the TM. Wether they are copper or rubber under the TM I do not know. Was hoping someone knows. If memory serves me I did see a tee fitting under there but don't recall of its the LP lines or something else. I plan on getting under there this weekend but wanted to see if anyone recommends a source for these lines I am having such trouble finding.

Oh and TY for the reminder... yellow has tape to seal all male threads. Yes sir. Funny I see the previouse owner put on the white Teflon on there whic is to seal water nit gas.
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Old 07-08-2022, 10:13 AM   #15
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This is what my connections look like. The lines go to the fridge, furnace, stove and some campers have an extra quick disconnect for a grill.
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Old 07-08-2022, 10:51 AM   #16
rickst29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralcruze View Post
Then after that lip under the TM I am unsure where that LP line goes. I am guessing that it splits to thr refrigerator and cooktop sides of the TM. Wether they are copper or rubber under the TM I do not know. Was hoping someone knows. If memory serves me I did see a tee fitting under there but don't recall of its the LP lines or something else. I plan on getting under there this weekend but wanted to see if anyone recommends a source for these lines I am having such trouble finding.
In my 2006 2019 (dual propane tanks up front) the LP line from the tanks goes into a somewhat unusual 4-way "cross" adapter - a cross with one end greatly extended. The extended connector end clamps is clamped through a round hole within the steel crosspiece "lip", with no junction occurring within the pipe the crosspiece. The flex supply pipe from the tank selector switch joins the "extended connector" forward from that clamp, using a normal compression (presumably with a copper washer sealing the connection).

The 3 "output" lines are copper pipe (type K, soft and bendable). Two are street-side, one bending around the spare tire rack and going up into the street side TM propane heater (which is forward of the door, in my model 2619). The other tube goes to the stove/stovetop.

I don't know whether TM was required to make separate connections for the stovetop versus oven, via a TM-installed "T", behind the stovetop. I've had no reason to go back there.
- - -
However: Street-side, which is supplied by only one pipe from the 4-way cross connector at the front center of the Trailer, TM uses a "T" adapter to reach two appliances (the 3-way fridge and the water heater).

It's located underneath the floor (inside the frame) near the front of the fridge, with the "middle leg" output rising to provide propane to the fridge. The "straight through" output of the "T" continues, underneath the floor, and enters the TM to supply the water heater.
- - -
In "upgrading" from the 3-way fridge into an electric-only model, the owner may either cap the fridge supply pipe up high (with the fridge compartment), or replace the "T" adapter with a straight-through 2-way connector. TM did provide enough extra length in the primary supply line (from the 4-way cross) to re-cut and re-flare the water-heater segments, so I did the cleaner looking adapter conversion (with no pipe entering the fridge compartment at all). But either way works.
- - -
In replacing the up-front OEM rubber hose, you only need to get to the 4-way cross, and make a good connection on that port. It will be more accessible from underneath, but you don't need to touch any of the "downstream" supply pipes (and the one T-adapter) at all.
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