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09-24-2022, 12:55 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 57
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Stripped screw head on controller
The screw will screw all the way down but won't hold the cable end. It's the right length and goes into the slot completely so it's a mystery why the screw doesn't tighten down against it.
Trying to resolve this issue I ending up stripping the head. The screw can't be backed out completely. Must have some sort of retaining washer? The controller doesn't open so can't be fixed it that way.
Taping the cable in place doesn't create a solid connection. I'm out of ideas how to secure the cable connection. Thanks!
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ao7X4IvumJHSnz7NdYakcPb6lGy8
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09-24-2022, 06:32 PM
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#2
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,041
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I'm sorry, but I don't understand what component your talking about, and the picture is too close to give any clarity. If you can give a different description of the damaged part that will help. Also, Please step back a bit so we can see that the screw is a part of.
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2013 2619
80 watt solar panel/swing hitch/low profile A/C.
Enduro 4445 caravan mover
2016 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 Hemi
Installed powered folding tow mirrors
Stopped playing with airplanes, now I just enjoy watching them fly by.
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09-24-2022, 09:34 PM
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#3
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidkraz
I'm sorry, but I don't understand what component your talking about, and the picture is too close to give any clarity. If you can give a different description of the damaged part that will help. Also, Please step back a bit so we can see that the screw is a part of.
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That looks like a solar controller, I believe.
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Rich and Lynn: 2021 2922KB
420Ah LiFePO4 battery bank, kilowatt solar, 3K Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter, DC-to-DC Charger, Sealand 711-M28 toilet, Maxxis 8008 Load Rated E
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09-25-2022, 09:37 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 57
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Sorry I wasn't more clear. Yes solar controller.
The problem area is where the positive cable goes in.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared...YPA2JB_1Tcr3S0
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Kathy
2009 TM 2720SL
2011 Honda Pilot
2005 GMC Sierra
And a bunch of working dogs
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09-25-2022, 10:15 AM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,041
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This video shows how to open the case and you should have better access for the wires.
__________________
2013 2619
80 watt solar panel/swing hitch/low profile A/C.
Enduro 4445 caravan mover
2016 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 Hemi
Installed powered folding tow mirrors
Stopped playing with airplanes, now I just enjoy watching them fly by.
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09-25-2022, 10:17 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,105
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There are 3 wires labelled positive. Presumably you are referring to the white one?
If you take the controller off the wall, remove the white wire, and peek into the hole where the wire is supposed to clamp down (may need a flashlight), you may be able to see how the wire is supposed to be clamped down. My guess (and it is only that) is that you will see a small steel rectangular plate, more or less 1/4 inch square. (It may be brass-colored.) It will have a hole drilled in the center of it. The walls of this hole may be threaded, so that when the screw turns as it passes through it, the plate moves up and down. The idea is that you back the screw out a bit, creating a small gap above the little plate. Then slip the end of the wire into the gap you just created above the plate, then tighten the screw, pulling the plate up toward the screw head, and trapping the wire If the screw was backed out too far, it may have come completely out of the little plate. Getting it threaded back in will be a challenge. If you are lucky, tweezers and a steady hand will help.
Another similar possibility is that the hole in the little plate is big enough that the screw slips right through it. The screw is then intended to thread into a fixed contact beyond the little plate. Again, the little plate is what is supposed to clamp the wire.
Remember that both of those ideas are just possibilities - I have no specific knowledge. However, I have seen connections that work this way in other devices.
If I am anywhere near correct, the pieces need to be reassembled in the correct order, with the screw properly re-threaded. I don't have any good ideas how to do this through a small access port. I think you may be faced with opening the case of the device, whether it is supposed to open or not If there are rubber feet on the bottom of the box, see if you can pop them off. Often there are screws hidden beneath the rubber feet.
Good luck
Bill
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09-27-2022, 09:10 AM
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#7
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlowerPower
The screw will screw all the way down but won't hold the cable end. It's the right length and goes into the slot completely so it's a mystery why the screw doesn't tighten down against it.
Trying to resolve this issue I ending up stripping the head. The screw can't be backed out completely. Must have some sort of retaining washer? The controller doesn't open so can't be fixed it that way.
Taping the cable in place doesn't create a solid connection. I'm out of ideas how to secure the cable connection. Thanks!
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My guess is that you may have missed the clamp all together when you inserted the wire.
You might try removing the wire push the screw back in the hole (use a different screw driver). Screw the screw back in a few turns and try inserting the wire again. You may have put the wire in behind the bottom of the clamp. That's very easy to do.
I highly recommend using ferrules on all wire ends that are going into clamps like that. It's well worth the investment and makes the job so much easier, faster, cleaner, better connection and (above all) safer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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