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Old 05-18-2021, 11:40 AM   #21
ShrimpBurrito
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To cut stainless steel, you want a bit or saw with a high content of cobalt, so I imagine you'd want the same for a thicker piece of steel such as would be found on a trailer tongue. I have a set of Milwaukee cobalt drill bits, and while not cheap, they cut vastly better than the typical plain steel bits.

You're probably looking for something like this:

Milwaukee Electric Tool 49-56-0173 Ice Hardened Bi-Metal Hole Saw, 3" Die, 8% Cobalt
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Ele.../dp/B0017WS1CY

...which is advertised for cutting both stainless and cast iron. Note with that particular one, the arbor is sold separately, which you would need if you don't already have one.

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Old 05-22-2021, 02:53 AM   #22
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I just used the normal Milwaukee Hole dozer kit I got on sale at homedepot and put the 1-7/8 in to the 2" and 30 seconds later it was done.
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Old 05-22-2021, 09:03 AM   #23
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The Milwaukee Hole Dozer is what that link I pasted refers to, which has 8% cobalt. Glad to hear it worked well.

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Old 06-03-2021, 11:21 PM   #24
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DH drilled out the bottom hole. Had to find a 1 7/8" guide hole, and then a 2 1/4 main hole drill. We have a Riobi drill and we figured out a way to drill it from the top and it took a while, but it's done, and the jack is on.

Ready to roll! For a souvenir we have the ring that was cut out of the lower part of the tongue jack.
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Old 11-03-2021, 06:03 PM   #25
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Does anyone know if there has since been an after-market leveling jack that will fit a 2003 2720?

I have a Trailer Valet x5 attached to the side of the frame, does anyone know if that would be safe to use as temporary jack while I wait however long to replace the original jack?
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Old 11-03-2021, 06:37 PM   #26
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If I understand, you need to replace the original crank-up / crank-down tongue jack. Manual tongue jacks are pretty much a standard item, and you will find them at any RV supply store - or better, at one of the on-line stores such as etrailer.com, pplmotorhomes.com, dyersonline.com or (of course) amazon.com. As reflected in the posts above, you need to be sure that the one you buy is the same style (side crank vs top crank), has the same size tube, and has the three mounting bolts in the same location.

As for leaving the trailer on a side-mounted temporary jack of any kind, I would lower the front stabilizers to the ground, then crank them down an extra turn or two to take some of the weight off the jack - but more important, to ensure that the whole tongue doesn't move sideways and drop to the ground if (for example) somebody pushes the trailer sideways. Lots of lawsuits happen when a trailer unexpectedly moves and hurts someone.

Hope this helps.

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Old 11-03-2021, 08:39 PM   #27
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If you're going to replace the front jack. Have you considered an electric version? They do cost more, but I feel it was worth the extra money.
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Old 12-09-2022, 06:18 PM   #28
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I have found a great deal of good info on the forum and also at time it seems the info is dated. Looking at the info on Electric Jacks, is a good example of dated info. Every post I read discussed wiring directly yo the battery and being very careful about grounding. I have found this electric jack (Uriah Products UC350010 Electric Trailer Jack (7-Way Connector, 3500 lb. 12V DC) which has a 7 pin connector so their is no wiring necessary. Just unplug the trailer 7 Pin and plug in the Jack and you are good to go. It is $149. Anyone had experience.
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