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Old 07-30-2004, 06:37 AM   #11
wesslvm
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Default Re:Door

[quote author=Texas_Camper link=board=22;threadid=2172;start=msg15090#msg1509 0 date=1090980500]
Wesslvm,
You have good first-hand experience.... What do you think the problem really is? How best to solve it? I think the factory could benefit from your experiience.
[/quote]

Hi,

Didn't see this post or I would have replied sooner. I'm not convince my problem is caused by the design, there may be another problem with my camper. I say tha because when I engage the door into the clip (hing side clip) I have to push the upper shell inward in order to get the clip engaged. I do not have to do this on the other clip. I believe this sets up a tension which causes the clip to fail.

Having said that, I would change the design so that a clip with a circular hole on top flipped down and onto the the lower have door post or I would use a different style clip which had a two step engagement. I'm thinking of a rosette button or similar, like what I have on my key rings, I have to depress a button to disengage the two pieces.

Meanwhile, my wife and I have actually become used to the problem and are very adept at opening and closing the door while applying pressure toward the hinge to keep the lower half of the door in place. We hardly notice it now.

:-\

Later!

Vince (heading for Lake Champlain VT today!)
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Old 07-30-2004, 09:40 AM   #12
Bill
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Default Re:Door

One thing I have noticed. When I open the door from inside and step down, I have a tendency to put some of my weight on the doorknob, kind of to steady myself. Dunno why, but I do. This is guaranteed to either separate the door halves, or pop the clip, or both. Any chance you are doing the same thing? If so, do what I try to do - CUT IT OUT!

Bill
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Old 08-27-2004, 07:03 PM   #13
walter
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Default door problem

just picked up my 2005 2720SL , 6 weeks ago. I have been opening and closing it to get used to the operation and went camping for 1 week.
I have not experienced problems with the door.

I do see a future problem and that is with the bottom door seal, which is a piece of thin rubber. I think the bottom of the door should be lengthened
for a closer fit and a better door sweep installed.

[ i hate it when a salesman gives you the "bull". that is the reason I did not buy a HI-LO. my dealer,Tim Loen of Chesapeake RV Solutions, Columbia MD was above board and if he did not have the answer, he called the factory.]
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Old 08-28-2004, 07:19 AM   #14
Factor
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Default Door

I got the clips from the factory and installed the one causing the problem. It works fairly well for now? The top door is not aligned very well with the bottom and you can see daylight towards the bottom of the top half - not a good fit. I believe it could be designed much more efficiently. I am still tempted to put another white turn clip towards the hinge side of the door - this would hold them together better.
John

2004 3023 - 2003 Montana AWD
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Old 08-28-2004, 11:37 AM   #15
wesslvm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Factor
I got the clips from the factory and installed the one causing the problem. It works fairly well for now? The top door is not aligned very well with the bottom and you can see daylight towards the bottom of the top half - not a good fit. I believe it could be designed much more efficiently. I am still tempted to put another white turn clip towards the hinge side of the door - this would hold them together better.
John

2004 3023 - 2003 Montana AWD
I had my '04 2720SL in for some work and one of the items was the operation of the door. Dana (from MCDcorp.com) and I both believe there is an alignment issue as well as possibly weak clips. Anyway, he spoke with the factory and they are suggesting a modification to the trailer. I don't know if they are acknowleding a design flaw for all the newer units or just recommending a fix for my problem.

Anyway, the suggested fix has to do with the bolting of the support piece for the side wall, just inside of the hinge on the lower door. What I was told is that the two bolts which penetrate the floor of the camper are inadequately supported due to the poly/aluminum structure not being strong enough. Their suggested fix is to intall a new plate under the camper with two holes for the bolts. This will distribute the stress across a wider area so that nothing gives when the door operates.

Hopefully we'll get this fix later this year. I'll let you know how it works out.

Vince
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Old 08-28-2004, 04:38 PM   #16
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Default Adjusting Door Gap

Quote:
Originally Posted by wesslvm
--------snip---------
Anyway, the suggested fix has to do with the bolting of the support piece for the side wall, just inside of the hinge on the lower door. What I was told is that the two bolts which penetrate the floor of the camper are inadequately supported due to the poly/aluminum structure not being strong enough. Their suggested fix is to intall a new plate under the camper with two holes for the bolts. This will distribute the stress across a wider area so that nothing gives when the door operates.
Vince
The two bolts under the floor pass thru a frame beam. So installing a plate at that point would be pointless. See the last picture in my webshot slide show.

http://community.webshots.com/album/107892971qOKvut

The only reinforcing which might be effective would be on top of the floor, under the triangular wall brace. If a brace were to be used under the floor, it would have to be inserted between floor and frame. That woudl not solve the problem of the floor flexing on the inside.

I've made my own adjustments, and the floor DOES seem to compress AND more torque was needed than I felt comfortable to appy to such small bolts!

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Old 08-29-2004, 05:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny_A
The two bolts under the floor pass thru a frame beam. So installing a plate at that point would be pointless. See the last picture in my webshot slide show.

http://community.webshots.com/album/107892971qOKvut

The only reinforcing which might be effective would be on top of the floor, under the triangular wall brace. If a brace were to be used under the floor, it would have to be inserted between floor and frame. That woudl not solve the problem of the floor flexing on the inside.

I've made my own adjustments, and the floor DOES seem to compress AND more torque was needed than I felt comfortable to appy to such small bolts!

Denny_A
Hi Denny,

Actually, our trailers are constructed differently. My bolts are much bigger than yours and they do not pass through any part of the frame. I was under the trailer today and noticed that I ALREADY have the bracket the factory speaks of and guess what, one of the nuts is missing (on the outside bolt)! Another quality control issue.

I'll take a picture and post it tomorrow.

Take care,

Vince
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Old 08-29-2004, 07:04 PM   #18
Denny_A
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Cool Bigger Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by wesslvm
Hi Denny,

Actually, our trailers are constructed differently. My bolts are much bigger than yours and they do not pass through any part of the frame. I was under the trailer today and noticed that I ALREADY have the bracket the factory speaks of and guess what, one of the nuts is missing (on the outside bolt)! Another quality control issue.
Vince
Vince,

Now I'm burdened with "bolt envy"! Re. my post; - never mind.

Denny_A
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Old 08-30-2004, 09:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesslvm
....I was under the trailer today and noticed that I ALREADY have the bracket the factory speaks of and guess what, one of the nuts is missing (on the outside bolt)! Another quality control issue.....
Vince,
I'm curious as to why you would label a missing nut a "quality control issue" when you have had the TM for 3 months. It would be a quality control problem if the nut was missing when you took delivery. Every nut and bolt on the TM should be checked by the owner at least one time during each of the first 2 trips and at least once a year after that for as long as you own the TM.
MJL

P.S. Have you checked your lug nuts since you took delivery?
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Old 08-30-2004, 03:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjlaupp
Vince,
I'm curious as to why you would label a missing nut a "quality control issue" when you have had the TM for 3 months. It would be a quality control problem if the nut was missing when you took delivery. Every nut and bolt on the TM should be checked by the owner at least one time during each of the first 2 trips and at least once a year after that for as long as you own the TM.
MJL

P.S. Have you checked your lug nuts since you took delivery?
I don't want to get into bashing the TM factory... but there are many little problems which I feel should be caught before the unit leaves the factory. I have a long list of quality control issues concerning mostly fastners, a wiring error, and some plumbing issues such as unglued PVC piping leading to leaks under the sink. Most of these issues I have fixed myself.

You of course are correct, the nut COULD HAVE com loose, however there were no markings indicating a nut was ever tightened against the aluminum plating. Also, the door has not been properly aligned since initial delivery which is what led me to think the nut has never been there.

As for the lug nuts (I'm assuming you mean the ones on the trailer!) ... yes I have checked them before each trip. I also have adjusted my brakes twice and checked the air in the tires including the spare.

Again, didn't want to start a thread on quality control.

Thanks!

Vince
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