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Old 06-05-2017, 09:15 AM   #21
HoMiPa
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Originally Posted by Shane826 View Post
I don't think the pocket stop bolt will affect closing because when closed that bolt isn't touching anything, if I'm picturing it correctly in my mind.

You're having trouble closing the same area that you as way out of adjustment, right? Curb side of the front shell was too low so you raised it up? That would effectively push the front shell BACK when in the down position. Is the catch on the shell lining up with the latch on the bottom box? If they are lined up and you just can't get the shell to go down far enough, you want to adjust the torsion bars. If that bar has too much tension on it, it will be a bear to close. Keep in mind the adjusters are on the opposite side of the lift arm (street side adjuster will adjust tension on curb side lift arm and vice versa).
Yes, I did raise the curb side of the front shell - which makes the arm longer, which would make the distance from the torsion bar to the catch longer when the shell is closed. I don't believe it's the tension - I can easily get the shell down far enough TO latch onto the catch, it just isn't, because I think the shell latch is coming down to the rear of the catch, which faces forward. I was thinking that the pocket stop effects the swing of the arm, but it actually effects the range of the swing, not the distance of the radius. So I think I need to lower that side of the shell just a tad, because it's the radius of the swing that is too long. The shell swings down far enough, it's just that the length of the arm (the radius of the swing) brings it down behind the catch. So if I shorten the swing length (shorten the arm), all should be well. Thanks for making me rethink it!
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:40 AM   #22
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Holly,

Interesting. It's my rear shell that gets a little difficult to lower for the last 8-12 inches. I've been reading many possible reasons from things blocking the shell on the inside, seals needing lubricating, torsion bars needing adjustment, uneven tension on the torsion bars, etc.

I've been wondering about trying the method that was described in the link to "post 49", the last link I pasted. Many have said to adjust the tension equally on all torsion bars, but this thing is 16 years old and I wouldn't be surprised that the springs are applying uneven tension by now.

Mine isn't impossible to open and close, I don't have to jump on the stirrups, but I doubt my wife would be able to close it. I think I would be struggling if I were 70 now.

I'll be following this to see how yours goes before I consider looking at mine.
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:21 AM   #23
HoMiPa
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Originally Posted by Larryjb View Post
Holly,

Interesting. It's my rear shell that gets a little difficult to lower for the last 8-12 inches. I've been reading many possible reasons from things blocking the shell on the inside, seals needing lubricating, torsion bars needing adjustment, uneven tension on the torsion bars, etc.

I've been wondering about trying the method that was described in the link to "post 49", the last link I pasted. Many have said to adjust the tension equally on all torsion bars, but this thing is 16 years old and I wouldn't be surprised that the springs are applying uneven tension by now.

Mine isn't impossible to open and close, I don't have to jump on the stirrups, but I doubt my wife would be able to close it. I think I would be struggling if I were 70 now.

I'll be following this to see how yours goes before I consider looking at mine.
I think key to that post is "and I think leveled the shell". I understand that to mean that they leveled the shells, in addition to adjusting the torsion. I haven't touched the torsion on mine. For some reason it scares me, and so I've just struggled with opening/closing for the past several years, using the excuse that it's my age, not the TM. LOL I was absolutely amazed at the difference in opening/closing once I leveled the shells. AMAZED! All these years of struggling - wasted.

Anyway, my opinion, it seems everyone jumps right to the torsion for any issue with the shells/door, but for whatever that is worth, the torsion is only one small link in a chain of things that has to be aligned/level/correct for the shells to open/close, door halves to connect properly, bathroom to set up properly, etc. A couple of those things off just a tad, and they all add up to issues. It's been interesting to read some of the posts about the shells/door and what people have deducted to be the problem.

I have an additional 'problem' in that I no longer have a couch attached to the wall & floor on the curb side near the door. So my lower front wall is a tad 'wobbly'. There are posts, from ages ago, that talk about a triangular piece of metal, bolted to the floor and wall, just to the left of the door (left of door from inside trailer). People make adjustments to this, to ensure the wall was plumb to the floor, and how this adjustment helped with the door function. Then there came a time when TM no longer put this piece of metal there, and comments about how this effects things. I never had that triangle, but I'm pretty sure that the couch bolted to both the floor & wall, made this piece of metal no longer necessary.

I've pondered what to do about my 'wobbly' wall - bolt in a 90 piece of angle iron to the floor & wall prior to laying the laminate floor? But in the end, I think it is all okay. Saying that though, I wonder if the wobbly wall makes it impossible to have the upper shell level, side to side, and still function properly in closing. If this is the case, making it level when up, actually makes the curb side of the upper shell too high (arm too long) for when you start to close it and the weight of the upper shell is no longer making the lower wall bow out slightly. I think if I lower the curb side of the upper shell, slightly out of level (low on curb side) for when the shell is up, it will be correct for when lowering. If I was to stabilize the lower wall, then I probably would still have to lower the curb side of the upper shell, because it would actually be too high as it is now. Does this all make sense?
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:20 PM   #24
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I think you're right about leveling the shell. I'm sure leveling is most important, but the actual height would be important for mating of the seals.

My heights are not equal, and will need leveling. I'll consider this, but this doesn't sound like a 5 minute job, so it will have to wait until I have a little time. I do know I have torsion bar issues though. The side which clunks down onto the rubber bumper is maxed out on the torsion bar. I may try leveling first, but I may have to replace some torsion bars.
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Old 06-05-2017, 11:37 PM   #25
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I'll consider this, but this doesn't sound like a 5 minute job, so it will have to wait until I have a little time.
It took me two hours. But I probably could have been done in one, had I had someone there helping - trying to turn the jack up, while holding the 2x4 in place until it had enough pressure on the bottom edge of the shell was, well, probably very comical to watch....
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Old 06-05-2017, 11:48 PM   #26
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OK, this give me an idea, perhaps. Use a bottle hydraulic jack + 2x4 notched to fit in the bottom of the shell. I can then zip tie the 2x4 to the lift arm to keep it from falling away.

I have a leaking thermostat housing in my Tahoe I have to fix first, however. I tried fixing it once, but I'm going to have to do it again and use some sealant. There's always something....
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:50 AM   #27
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OK, this give me an idea, perhaps. Use a bottle hydraulic jack + 2x4 notched to fit in the bottom of the shell. I can then zip tie the 2x4 to the lift arm to keep it from falling away.
No need for any notching, and you don't want the 2x4 that close to the lift arm - it would be in the way of accessing the bolts. Unless you like the idea of a quarter turn at a time on a bolt.... And you want the 2x4 perpendicular to the bottom of the upper shell, not "in the bottom" of the shell. Just in case you actually meant to put the end of the 2x4 up inside the shell..... the 2" sides should be towards the TM wall and facing out, the 4" sides should be facing forward and back. I suppose you could make a slight notch for the entire width of the shell wall to sit down into the end of the 2x4 a small amount though.

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There's always something....
Yup, there is. Just like with a house.....
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Old 06-06-2017, 08:11 AM   #28
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.... I suppose you could make a slight notch for the entire width of the shell wall to sit down into the end of the 2x4 a small amount though.
That's exactly what I meant. I figure if I zip tie it beside the lift arm, I'll still have good swing on the bolts that hold the lift arm to the torsion bars. But if I notch the 2x4, there's probably no need to tie it to the lift arm.
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Old 11-21-2022, 01:35 PM   #29
Deb Mac
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Originally Posted by Bill View Post
The torsion bars have a round cross-section all along their length. There are no holes, slots, flat spots, pins, or other retaining provisions. In other words, they are held on by friction, so when you retighten the bolts, you must be pretty torque-y about it. The one thing missing from Dick's procedure, although it should be obvious in reading it, is that the shell should be open before you loosen the bolts. This "untwists" the torsion bars, taking the pressure off the support arms.

Bill
Another resurrected old thread
I adjusted the torsion bars last summer on my trip home after picking it up - made the front a LOT easier to open. But... Just curious, does anyone know what the torque on those 4 strut bolts should be? Going to find the pocket stops and check the measurements today before closing her up for the winter. Based on a few things that I see on mine and have read in various threads, I suspect that I need to adjust the height of the shells, but that won't be happening till the snows go! I have a torque wrench that I use on the lug nuts, and if and when (another spring project) I get at adjusting the struts and pocket stops, it would be great to know that I was "torque-y" enough. One person's "torqued" is another's "wrist tight"
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