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Old 04-08-2019, 08:40 AM   #1
FlyboyTR
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Default Joining The TM Family...

We have been trying to learn as much as possible about the TM...to the point of making a reasonable purchase decision. We have looked at several but are headed to FL later this week to purchase an 07 2720SL for $6,500 (pending inspection). Three new tires last year, wheel covers/fenders missing. Everything else is reported to be in great working condition. It looks good with the exception of some carpet staining (hopefully not hard to clear or replace.

I've been reading about the recirculating toilet...interesting... We use the GEO method in our motorhome and travel trailer. No odors, no problems and has served us well. I am hoping the Thetford toilet will work out the same.

I will be towing it home without WDH or sway control. Our Lexus GX470 is lifted, very stable (tows our 4,300 lb Surveyor fine...with WDH/Sway). So I am not expecting any issues on the return trip home.

I am continuing to read and learn...but would always welcome tips, etc for new owners of the TM.

What is the best product to clean and lube the seals on the clam-shells to reduce scuffing/wear on the exterior paint and to help promote a better and more pliable seal?

If all goes well, I will be taking delivery this Thursday, drive about a hundred miles, camp and then 600 miles back home. Hoping setup and fold up go as planned!

Thanks to all on this forum for your amazing wealth of info!
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:14 AM   #2
rickst29
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Talking Congrats on your 2720 purchase plan!

First thing - I recommend that you join the forum as a paid "member", for $12 per year.
- - - -
Now, with that said: I use dollar-store "L.A.'s Totally Awesome Cleaner" for everything except wallpaper, inside and out. I spray into an already-wet sponge, creating about a roughly 4:1 water-to-cleaner solution. When attacking road tar spots on the outside, I use less water- a dryer sponge.

Rinse with plain water, using a different sponge and rinse bucket afterwards, to clean off soap residue. At full strength, on more recent model years, L.A.s awesome can reportedly dissolve paint - so be sure to dilute with water first.

Will most of your camping be plugged in, or more "primitive"?
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:17 AM   #3
FlyboyTR
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First thing - I recommend that you join the forum as a paid "member", for $12 per year.
- - - -
Now, with that said: I use dollar-store "L.A.'s Totally Awesome Cleaner" for everything except wallpaper, inside and out. I spray into an already-wet sponge, creating about a roughly 4:1 water-to-cleaner solution. When attacking road tar spots on the outside, I use less water- a dryer sponge.

Rinse with plain water, using a different sponge and rinse bucket afterwards, to clean off soap residue. At full strength, on more recent model years, L.A.s awesome can reportedly dissolve paint - so be sure to dilute with water first.

Will most of your camping be plugged in, or more "primitive"?
Rick,
Thanks for the info. I have never used the Awesome cleaner...but have several people in our camping group that do.

Most of camping is about 60% full hookup and 40% dry camping.

I would be happy to join as a member. Let me see if I can figure out where to do that. Thanks again!
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:23 AM   #4
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Rick,
I have joined. Always happy to support the cause!
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Old 04-08-2019, 02:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by FlyboyTR View Post
I've been reading about the recirculating toilet...interesting... We use the GEO method in our motorhome and travel trailer. No odors, no problems and has served us well. I am hoping the Thetford toilet will work out the same.
Welcome aboard!

The GEO method ought to work well. But DO NOT follow it up by dumping a bag of ice cubes into the toilet, as many people do. Deep inside the Thetford, there is a conical metal screen, formed of something much like 1/4" mesh galvanized hardware screen. The shape and placement of the screen are important, and a sloshing batch of ice cubes will deform or destroy it.

See? You just saved the cost of the year's membership right there.

Bill
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Old 04-08-2019, 02:54 PM   #6
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Welcome aboard!

The GEO method ought to work well. But DO NOT follow it up by dumping a bag of ice cubes into the toilet, as many people do. Deep inside the Thetford, there is a conical metal screen, formed of something much like 1/4" mesh galvanized hardware screen. The shape and placement of the screen are important, and a sloshing batch of ice cubes will deform or destroy it.

See? You just saved the cost of the year's membership right there.

Bill
Bill,
Thanks. I finally found some pictures (on this site) showing the innards of the mysterious recirculating toilet. After seeing what was inside the bowels (pardon the pun) of the beast it all made sense. The screen does look like it would not take much abuse...except what it was designed for.

Thanks again for the heads up!
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:22 AM   #7
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We are officially TM owners. While this unit has a lot more wear and tear than i was expecting, I don't think I will have too many problems rehabbing it.

So far most of the problems appear to be repairs/fixes by someone that should not be allowed to operate high tech equipment like screwdrivers, pliers and the ever-confusing adjustable wrench.

When set up the swing up aluminum bars that pin each side of the shell (keeps it stable and prevents it from closing...yes I have got to learn what all these things are called) are not level. It appears the shells are hanging low at the front and rear. From a visual standpoint each end appears to droop downward. There are no shell bumpers on the frame (where the bottom of the shell meets the main camper frame). The door doesn't fit well and this is probably directly related to the shell height adjustment. The fender well liner has gaps and tears (nothing difficult here). Brakes are useless and the left hub is running a bit warm. The bearing dust covers look like they were beat to an oblong shape with a sledge hammer and the rubber end plug has been replaced with black electrical tape (Although...I did pull it over 500 miles yesterday and kept checking the warm hub about every 50 miles...so the nut tension probably just needs to be backed off...but I will be inspecting bearings and races). Sigh...

So first things first is to sort out the shell adjustment. Torsion adjustment appears to be close and doesn't require great force for opening or closing...so I am thinking this is just a height adjustment issue.

The frame pad issue is a simple/easy fix. I have some marine wet exhaust hose that should work well...but will look at other options in the shop.

Replace the non-existent weatherstripping around the door.

OH...I forget that the bag seals have some pretty worn areas where the material has worn through. I may just try to find a pliable sealant to cover those areas and worry with this down the road. I have removed the scotch tape that had been applied...LOL

OK...guidance, help, suggestions, prayers, adult beverage....all will be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:41 AM   #8
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Brakes are useless and the left hub is running a bit warm. The bearing dust covers look like they were beat to an oblong shape with a sledge hammer and the rubber end plug has been replaced with black electrical tape (Although...I did pull it over 500 miles yesterday and kept checking the warm hub about every 50 miles...so the nut tension probably just needs to be backed off...but I will be inspecting bearings and races). Sigh...

So first things first is to sort out the shell adjustment.
Interesting challenges, and some fun work.

In my experience, the running gear fixes should be first on your list.

Are there grease splats on the wheels? This is an indication of leaking bearing dust covers. Bearing caps and rubber plugs can be found at many auto supply stores, a few hardware stores, and even a few Walmarts. If these are not handy, Amazon can serve 'em up in a day or two. Yes, inspect bearings and races, as well as nut tension. I assume you have a grease gun, and a couple tubes of the NLGI-2 grease specified by Dexter Axle, the manufacturer. After you have confirmed that the current bearings and races are good, it's not a bad idea to get a spare set and keep them tucked away. They are not expensive, and a bearing failure on the road can be nasty if you don't have spares.

When you say the brakes are useless, what do you mean? Start by making sure that the magnets are receiving electrical power, of course. Assuming they are, it is easy to remove and replace the hubs so you can take a look at shoes and drums. TMs come equipped with manual brake adjusters, so it may need a simple adjustment. Many of us have replaced the OEM manual brakes with self-adjusters. These are surprisingly inexpensive at eTrailer.com, and a snap to mount.

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Old 04-12-2019, 01:30 PM   #9
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Interesting challenges, and some fun work.

In my experience, the running gear fixes should be first on your list.


When you say the brakes are useless, what do you mean? Start by making sure that the magnets are receiving electrical power, of course. Assuming they are, it is easy to remove and replace the hubs so you can take a look at shoes and drums. TMs come equipped with manual brake adjusters, so it may need a simple adjustment. Many of us have replaced the OEM manual brakes with self-adjusters. These are surprisingly inexpensive at eTrailer.com, and a snap to mount.

Bill
Bill,
Thanks for the reply and info. I am blessed that I am very much mechanically inclined and "at home" with all the mechanical/electrical/plumbing needs and appliances.

I generally always carry a spare set of bearings/races/seals/nut/washer/and cotter pin along with a wad of grease. All of this is vacuum bagged (food saver) and then that bag is wrapped in blue shop towels and latex gloves and then all of that is vacuum bagged again. Nothing worse than being in the middle of nowhere with no parts and supplies.

Grease...5 grease guns, all with different lube... Covered! LOL

Brakes: For the trip home yesterday...I had the controller set to 10/highest and even with that I was only getting a slight bump on the brakes when testing. When I pull the hubs I will be going through the brakes and am hoping they are just painfully out of adjustment...but shoes are cheap, if needed.

I had previously read about the lift system and adjusting it. While I could picture what was there...one I spent a few minutes looking at the system, it made the article I read a lot clearer. This morning I spent several hours trying to sort out the lift adjustment. On the front shell, front supports, one side was at 38.5" and the other 38.75". They are now at 39.5"...give or take an eighth of an inch. Looks better, door is better, etc. The rears are all about 3/8" low. I will tackle that later on.

Water tank filled and systems checked out. Everything now works...several leaking joints. Pull the anode from the water heater...JOKE...nothing there but a plug! Lots of sediment in the tank. Flushed it and then let about 2 gallons of white vinegar rest in the tank for about 30 minutes...flushed again. Much better. New magnesium anode is on the order list! Now heating on gas and the electrical element is working also. I will be installing a remote (inside) switch for the electric element. I have done this on all our previous campers (makes life much easier!).

Added a couple gallons of water to the toilet, about 1/2 cup of dawn and Borax and have been letting it run for a bit every time I think about it. System smells better and lots of gunk has obviously turned loose. I love the GEO method (use it in our bus and travel trailer) and am certain this system will benefit from it.

OK...rattling on... Thanks again!
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