Cold Shower

**YWORRYDOG** · 05-21-2006, 05:47 AM

I started a thread on this before, but never got a solution. It is still a problem that when you shut of the shower head to trickle, the water turns cold. I have checked all the other faucets and they are off, yes, even the outside one. The only way I can see that cold water is somehow getting to the shower is from the hot water bypass. I have done the test with only the hot water on and it still happens! Now my question is I have a bypass with only one shut off. My last campers had a bypass with 2 valves. Does anyone have this problem with a 2 valve bypass, or no by pass?

05-21-2006, 02:14 PM

Chuck and Rose,
The problem is the check valve on the hot water outlet of the water heater. It won't pass any water at low flow rates (trickle). There are two ways around the cold water problem. Get rid of the check valve and use a three valve bypass, or use a shower head with a positive shutoff. Hope this helps.

Bruce

**YWORRYDOG** · 05-21-2006, 02:42 PM

I can't seem to find a 3 valve bypass. If I removed the bypass would that solve the problem?

05-21-2006, 06:33 PM

Chuck and Rose,
Removing the bypass and check valve will solve the problem. A 3 valve bypass uses 3 separate valves. If you do an internet search on hot water heater bypass, you will find a number of ways to do this. Any bypass setup that uses a check valve will cause your "cold water blast" problem.

Bruce

ripp1202 · 05-22-2006, 07:02 AM

A 3 valve bypass, Here is a pic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Rip

**YWORRYDOG** · 05-22-2006, 01:41 PM

Thank you all. Especially you Bruce who came up with the answer to a problem that plagued us since we got the TM. It seemed to be impossible to find the old 3-valve bypass anymore. When I saw the picture that Rip posted the idea of building one only went through my mind for about a nono second as it is kinda cramped under the sink. I just finished changing the single valve to a 2 valve. I filled the tank, and heated it on gas. Then tried the shower under may hand. If it has not completely solved the problem it has at least made a huge improvement! Thanks again all!

**Bill** · 05-25-2006, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AstroBruce

Chuck and Rose,
The problem is the check valve on the hot water outlet of the water heater. It won't pass any water at low flow rates (trickle). There are two ways around the cold water problem. Get rid of the check valve and use a three valve bypass, or use a shower head with a positive shutoff. Hope this helps.

Bruce

I wasn't aware that the water heater has a check valve, but it sounds like a reasonable answer to the question. What is the purpose of the check valve? Can it be simply removed?

Bill

ripp1202 · 05-26-2006, 05:37 AM

I had trouble with my hot water heater not getting hot ,only warm put in a new thermostat!!! Heats up in about 30 minute using electric only and hot now !!! This thermostat was for the electric side and not the thermostat for the propane side

The Rip

**YWORRYDOG** · 05-26-2006, 07:04 AM

Bill, the check valve was part of the single lever bypass that was installed by the dealer when I purchased the TM new. (it gets cold up here) I did not know about it having a check valve and I always wondered why my hot water tank would not drain like the manual says. I aways had to open the Relief valve.

05-26-2006, 02:09 PM

Bill,

The purpose of the check valve is to allow the heater to be bypassed with a single lever. If you remove JUST the check valve, you will flow antifreeze into the heater when you winterize.

Bruce