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Old 01-12-2023, 06:10 PM   #11
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Maine
Posts: 64

If I have to cut a hole I was going to drill down behind where the power center is located. I have 90 degree which make this pretty easy. It will be in the 50s tomorrow in Maine, so it will be like summer. I will be working on this. My TM is in a large 30" long building so can keep it expanded.
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Old 01-12-2023, 07:56 PM   #12
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Location: North Carolina
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Originally Posted by Stephene1219 View Post
Thank you for the picture and info. I have attached a picture that shows for my 2922 2022 model they have completely changed how they routs the wires. There is just one hole now and a large group of wires come from the back of the TM with no wires coming from the front. I believe I can cut the current solar wires and pull them out and then and be able to feed the new wires into the hole.

I love the TM but they really have no CS to speak of. Jacob is great but he gets telling me he is just a tech and my questions are out of his ability. Their manual is out of date, there wiring diagram is out of date and as far as I know they do not have a diagram of how the wiring is run in the TM. It is a shame with such a great product they pay so little attention to the CS details.
Dropping the second hole for solar and running all wiring through the single underside hole beside the frame makes a lot of sense if done at the time of build, but that definitely makes retrofitting harder.

I was able to find enough room at that location to add my inverter ground wiring and also the wires for my (second) front shell mounted solar array.

In my power installation work, I've routed most of my wires through the tub plumbing trap door in the far left of the rear storage compartment.

There's a large bundle of wiring which runs in the floor space between the tub and the rear compartment. Routing my new wiring through the trap door has ensured that I didn't drill or cut into that bundle (or even the tub, itself).

There's not much space between the tub and the back storage wall and it is not easy to push the solar cable in from the underside of the TrailManor. It would probably be beneficial to have the power converter pulled out as far into the hallway as possible so you can see the progress of the solar wire as you work it in from the bottom.

I didn't do it that way (when feeding the wire in from my front solar array). I had my wife use a U" bent metal clothes hanger inserted through the tub water supply access panel and fished into the space behind the tub to hook and pull the solar wires to the tub plumbing access panel as I pushed them in from below.

Good luck with your installation. This is certainly doable, but tedious work.

Rich and Lynn
2021 2922KB
Rich and Lynn: 2021 2922KB

420Ah LiFePO4 battery bank, kilowatt solar, 3K Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Sealand 711-M28 toilet, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E
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Old 01-17-2023, 03:05 PM   #13
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 16

#10 wire is generally 30A rated. Best not to use a 40A fuse/breaker on it. Keep in mind on some TMs the 12V wiring is wired like 120V wiring with the hot "positive" being black and "negative" being white. Best to double check with a volt meter.

Also #4 wire is not rated for a 100A breaker. Why would you use #2 everywhere else and then not to the inverter which is the load? You'd be better off putting the inverter near the batteries and then running cheap romex at 120V to your distribution point.
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