Blowout Absorbing Mud Flap (BAM)

DISCLAIMER: The following design has never been tested and I hope it never will be. Therefore, it may or may not inhibit damage to the TM from a tire blowout. In fact, it's possible that it might increase the level of damage (one never knows without extensive testing). In any event, each individual needs to review the design and make their own decision. For me, I feel the design is based on the sound principle of energy-absorbing crumple zones. I also wanted the design to be lightweight.

To create the Blowout-Absorbing Mud Flap (BAM), I purchased the following items:

One eight-foot long aluminum square tubing (the sides are one inch)
One 2 x 1 foot flat piece of diamond-plated aluminum
Sixteen galvanized bolts, nuts, and lock washers
Thirty two small and sixteen large galvanized washers (all purchased at Lowes)
One large heavy-duty truck mud flap (auto-parts store)

To make a set of BAMs:
Cut the eight-foot aluminum square tubing into eight one foot long sections.
Cut the flat piece of diamond plate into two one foot square sections.
Cut the truck mud flap to fit the diamond plate with an ample amount hanging down from the bottom of the diamond plate (see pictures)
Each BAM is assembled using four square sections of tubing (one foot long) and bolted to the mud flap, TM frame, and diamond plate using the hardware (see pictures)

You now have a set of mud flaps that should absorb a fair amount of energy if the tire blows. In theory, the aluminum square tubes/diamond plate will crumple and the washers will rip through the rubber to dissipate a significant amount of the energy. In mean the time, they will help to keep the TM clean. Well, that's the theory anyway.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Great work. You know, if you used galvanized steel tubing instead of aluminum, the whole structure may stay attached and offer better protection. You don't just want to protect against the initial blowout. What causes damage is the repeated thrashing of the delaminated tread up against the plumbing or underside of the TM -- one thrashing for every revolution, and there are alot!

I like your design. Thanks for posting!

Dave

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

Great work. You know, if you used galvanized steel tubing instead of aluminum, the whole structure may stay attached and offer better protection. You don't just want to protect against the initial blowout. What causes damage is the repeated thrashing of the delaminated tread up against the plumbing or underside of the TM -- one thrashing for every revolution, and there are alot!

I like your design. Thanks for posting!

Dave

Thanks Dave, I'm hoping that this lightweight design will do just that. Of course, without testing, I just don't know what's the best answer is. Also, one must consider that steel will not crumple as easily as aluminum, which would send the energy into the TM frame (where the mud flap is attached)...possibly bending the frame. Therefore, for me, aluminum is still the best option when considering weight, protection, and the unforeseen consequences of using stronger material. Too bad we don't have a budget for testing.

[Barb&Tim]

Like your design! I think it will offer a much greater degree of protection than just a mudflap.


Tim

[B_and_D]

Looks good, but I hope you never get to test it!

Great idea. I am thinking a galvanized frame with the aluminum diamond plate would add strength yet the aluminum plate would offer energy absorption. If the blowout hit the plate some of the energy would be absorbed. Keep the two separated with the rubber mat and there should little galvanic corrosion.

As soon as I recover from back surgery I am going to take a look at this.

Good idea. I like the energy absorbing use of aluminum. If it ever gets used, and I hope it does not, share with us how it did? Thanks!

I'm wondering if the top part (stationary alum frame) may be a problem as it may cause damage because there is no give and may break away. I think a mud flap should have some give and divert the debris as close to the ground as possible. Just a thought.

Koz

Tire-Blowout Report:

Well, last week, on the way back home from the Everglades, my luck ran out. I became a member of the tire-blowout club. When I purchased my "new" 2009 3124KS in November of 2010 it had Goodyear Marathon tires dated 22 Oct 2007 (so the tires were already three years old). In any event, I was hoping they would last 4.5 years, 10,500 miles, and the completion of this trip. With only 280 miles to go, BAM.

I was in the right lane on I75 doing about 63 mph with lots of room to pull over. Yes, I check tire pressure frequently. Yes, I keep the camper under its load limit. Yes, I keep my rig at or below 65 mph. Yes, I have a tire monitoring system, but I still had a violent blowout. The tire lost air so fast and fell to the road with such force it bent the rim badly. The tire exploded from one side of the rim to the other and by the time I got stopped there was only a thin layer of ply left anywhere on the tire. The noise was terrible all the way to the stopping point. Oh well, thanks to the Blowout Adsorbing Mudflap (disclosed above), the plumbing and the rest of the Trailmanor suffered only minor damage and was easily repaired.

I now have Maxxis Load E tires with 75 psi set. Some may think that's too high, but my camper's gross allowable weight is 4550 and I run at 4350 (yes, I had it weighed at a certified scale). If the ride turns out to be too hard, I'll reduce the psi to 70. I'll let you know the outcome over time.

As for the damage, here's the list and what I did to fix it (with pictures)

The rim was damaged beyond repair…had to be replace…cost $88

The edge of the plastic wheel well had some puncture wounds. I filled and reinforced the edges with sealant and RV aluminum roofing material.

One of the T's on the T-handle for the plumbing broken off. Fortunately, it was a clean break with no other damage, but it got me to thinking. Since the Ts provided a method for the tread to get caught on and cause possible problems in the future, I went ahead and cut all the unnecessary portion of the T handles off...my valves operate just fine without the top portion of the handles...they just give tire debris more stuff to get caught on as it departs.

Having all the "fresh" water drain valves in the vertical position may have prevented damage as well.

Punctured the screen covering the bathroom fan vent...an easy repair with no-see-ums screen.

And a few dents and scratches requiring no repair.

Camper is back on Vacation Alert Status with no degrades…in fact, stronger than it was.

End of Report

[wbmiller3]

Sorry you had this problem but thanks for the detailed report.