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Old 09-10-2004, 04:37 PM   #1
doonboggle
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Default Adjustments needed ... but what???

This morning, I began to (somewhat) take apart my used unit I recently purchased for the purpose of cleaning. Over the years of it's life, it has been neglected somewhat. After about 5 hours of hard scrubbing, with the shells closed, finally got 3/4 of it done. Then raised the front clam shell so as to gain access to the hidden half of the real clam shell ... when closed. In doint this, noted something that I am at lost what to do; so hopefully some of you experts herein can guide this newbie.

In raising the front clam shell, and without anything being done to the rear section, noticed the clam shell has a noticable lean towards the sidewalk area; namely to the left as you face it from the tongue area.

There is a bowing to this side as well in the lower half. Not REAL BAD ... but bad enough to notice. Also, in closing it this morning, for the first time since our initial opening it, the rear section was somewhat hard to push in. Took both of us to get it done ... especially since I have a recent spinal operation. But, with persistant pushing by both of us, succeeded. Did not see any obstruction, binding, etc..

So, presume there 'may' be some adjustments I need to consider. I am not yet that sharp on the nomenclature language of the various struts, supports, etc... so anything you may offer, please make it basic if you don't mind.

One other noted item ... that is probably related...when fully opened, when sitting on the couch facing to the rear, up where the clamshell overhang is, there is about a 1-2 in. gap on the sidewalk side ... and about a 1/2 inch on the street side.

There are a couple of other issues noted that I will also ask about, but will save them for later so that the message process does not become too cluttered.
Thanks for all your help. Since signing onto this forum, have obtained a wealth of valuable information.
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Old 09-10-2004, 11:44 PM   #2
Denny_A
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Default Shell game..........

bd,

Sounds as if the shell gap prob you mention could be from incorrect lift arm height. I had such a problem some time back and had to lengthen one arm and shorten another to remove the gap.

Adjusting out 1-2 inches may be a challenge. Since the gap is seen from inside, chances are that you will see a similar gap outside where the shells overlap. In any case you will probably need to raise one support arm by 1/2 the gap thickness and lower the other arm the same amount,

First I would ensure that the trailer frame is absolutely level. Then, with both shells raised, and by whatever means necessary, determine how close to level each shell is. Say the aft shell is dead-on level and the forward is a couple of bubble widths off. Then you know ALL adjustments have to be made on the aft shell support arms. Maybe 1-2 inches need to be taken out of the street side support (fwd of the wheel), and 1/2 inch from the road side support(also fwd of the wheel).

If each shell is off-level, then it will be necessary to make whatever multiple length adjustments to close the gap and level each shell. Not fun!

Each arm is bolted to a torsion rod which stores energy in order to assist opening. When the shells are open, torsion pre-load is nil. Just above the support arm pivot point you will note four bolts which clamp the support arms to the torsion rod.

Vertical adjustment requires loosening all 4 bolts and moving the support arm, relative to the torsion rod, either up or down. The arms were not designed to make this an easy task. So a support, such as a scissor jack or bottle jack is needed under the torsion rod, and another support is needed under the foot-stirrup to limit the downward motion of the arm when shortening. Finally you will need to pound on stuff to make it obey! Lengthening requires supporting the stirrup and pounding downward on the torsion rod.

Finally, since the arm rotates 90 deg., the adjusted arm may not latch properly, requiring the latching bits be moved about. And/or in conjunction with the other lift arm (same side) cause bowing of the shell as it folds down or extra tension loading on the shell between the support arms. The split half door clearance is also affected by adjusting the forward shell arm next to the door. At some point it may no longer be possible to properly operate the door if too much shell movement occurs. Cause - effect. Those are just a few side effects of adjusting a support arm by a considerable amount. You'll have to be constantly checking for unintended results.

Recommend you study on-it first, since words don't make for good visuals. Then get back to me if you need pics. I could set up a tutorial series of images later if need be.

BTW, once the shells are laterally aligned, the other "bowing" problem may be solved as well.

Denny_A

Quote:
Originally Posted by doonboggle
--------------snip--------------
In raising the front clam shell, and without anything being done to the rear section, noticed the clam shell has a noticable lean towards the sidewalk area; namely to the left as you face it from the tongue area.

There is a bowing to this side as well in the lower half. Not REAL BAD ... but bad enough to notice. Also, in closing it this morning, for the first time since our initial opening it, the rear section was somewhat hard to push in. Took both of us to get it done ... especially since I have a recent spinal operation. But, with persistant pushing by both of us, succeeded. Did not see any obstruction, binding, etc..

So, presume there 'may' be some adjustments I need to consider. I am not yet that sharp on the nomenclature language of the various struts, supports, etc... so anything you may offer, please make it basic if you don't mind.

One other noted item ... that is probably related...when fully opened, when sitting on the couch facing to the rear, up where the clamshell overhang is, there is about a 1-2 in. gap on the sidewalk side ... and about a 1/2 inch on the street side.

Thanks for all your help. Since signing onto this forum, have obtained a wealth of valuable information.
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Old 09-11-2004, 05:38 PM   #3
doonboggle
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Default Adjustments

DENNY: WAS GOING TO PRIVATELY DISCUSS YOUR REPLY WITH YOU, BUT DECIDED TO DO IT OPENLY SO THAT PERHAPS OTHERS CAN BENEFIT FROM MY CLARIFICATION POINTS.
MY CLARIFICATION POINTS WILL BE, LIKE THIS, CAPITALIZED WITHIN YOUR POSTING SO THAT IT CAN STAND OUT. I AM NOT SHOUTING........

Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny_A
bd,

Sounds as if the shell gap prob you mention could be from incorrect lift arm height. I had such a problem some time back and had to lengthen one arm and shorten another to remove the gap.

Adjusting out 1-2 inches may be a challenge. Since the gap is seen from inside, chances are that you will see a similar gap outside where the shells overlap. In any case you will probably need to raise one support arm by 1/2 the gap thickness and lower the other arm the same amount,

YOU ARE CORRECT. FROM THE OUTSIDE, HAVE ALSO NOTICED A SIMILIAR GAP.

First I would ensure that the trailer frame is absolutely level. Then, with both shells raised, and by whatever means necessary, determine how close to level each shell is. Say the aft shell is dead-on level and the forward is a couple of bubble widths off. Then you know ALL adjustments have to be made on the aft shell support arms. Maybe 1-2 inches need to be taken out of the street side support (fwd of the wheel), and 1/2 inch from the road side support(also fwd of the wheel).

STREET AND ROAD SIDE SOUNDS TO ME TO BE THE SAME. DID YOU MEAN SIDEWALK IN LIEU OF STREET???

IF THE LEVELING IS AS SUCH, WHY AFT SHELL ADJUSTMENTS; SINCE THE FRONT SECTION IS THE ONE THAT IS LEANING ... AND APPEARS TO BE THE ONE REQUIRING ADJUSTING?

If each shell is off-level, then it will be necessary to make whatever multiple length adjustments to close the gap and level each shell. Not fun!

Each arm is bolted to a torsion rod which stores energy in order to assist opening. When the shells are open, torsion pre-load is nil. Just above the support arm pivot point you will note four bolts which clamp the support arms to the torsion rod.

Vertical adjustment requires loosening all 4 bolts and moving the support arm, relative to the torsion rod, either up or down. The arms were not designed to make this an easy task. So a support, such as a scissor jack or bottle jack is needed under the torsion rod, and another support is needed under the foot-stirrup to limit the downward motion of the arm when shortening. Finally you will need to pound on stuff to make it obey! Lengthening requires supporting the stirrup and pounding downward on the torsion rod.

YOU SAY VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT. WHY VERTICAL? THE PROBLEM I AM EXPERIENCING EXHIBITS BOTH PLAINS; VERTICAL FOR THE LEANING PROBLEM ... AND HORIZONAL FOR THE GAP.

RIGHT NOW THE RODS AND THE SUPPORT ARMS APPEAR TO BE SET UNIFORMLY.
DO THE RODS GO UP AND OVER THE TOP OF THE SHELL ... OR DO THEY TERMINATE WITHIN THE ARMS? IN LOOKING AT IT, AND STICKING MY FINGERS UP IN THE OPENING, IT APPEARS THE ARMS HAVE A 90 DEGREE ARM WELDED ONTO THE MAIN PART ... BUT CANNOT SEE BEYOND THIS TO SEE HOW FAR THEY EXTEND UP.

WITH THAT IN MIND, IF I POUND UPWARD ON THE ARM SHROUD, WON'T IT BEND THE METAL? IT IS NOT A VERY THICK PIECE OF RECTANGULAR MATERIAL. AND IF I DO POUND IT UPWARDS, RELATIVE TO MY QUERY ABOUT IT'S HIDDEN LENGTH, IS IT SOMEHOW ATTACHED TO THE CLAM SHALL WALL SO THAT IT RAISES THE PLAIN OF THE SHELL?

RELATIVE TO THE FOOT STIRRUP, IS DIRECTLY UNDER IT THE PLAN ... OR ADJACENT ... TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SHELL. ASK THIS BECAUSE AGAIN, THE STIRRUP IS NOT A BIG PIECE OF ROD ... SO DON'T WANT TO BEND IT.

TO GO WITH YOUR LENGTHENING GUIDE COMMENT, I PRESUME THAT THE SHORTENING ASPECT THEN REQUIRES POUNDING UPWARDS ON THE ARM????


Finally, since the arm rotates 90 deg., the adjusted arm may not latch properly, requiring the latching bits be moved about. And/or in conjunction with the other lift arm (same side) cause bowing of the shell as it folds down or extra tension loading on the shell between the support arms. The split half door clearance is also affected by adjusting the forward shell arm next to the door. At some point it may no longer be possible to properly operate the door if too much shell movement occurs. Cause - effect. Those are just a few side effects of adjusting a support arm by a considerable amount. You'll have to be constantly checking for unintended results.

DO NOT FOLLOW THIS PART TOO WELL. WAS NOT AWARE THE ARM ROTATES. DID NOTICE ON THE LATCHING PARTS THERE IS A SMALL ADJUSTMENT SLOT BUILT INTO THE MOUNTING SCREW HOLES. THIS PARAGRAPH PUTS ME INTO THE ARENA THAT PERHAPS I NEED TO TAKE TO A REPUTABLE DEALER. ONLY THING IS, THE CLOSEST ONE TO US IS ABOUT A DAYS TRAVEL AWAY ... OVER IN DINUBA, CALIFORNIA. BY YOUR DESCRIPTION, SCARED IS THE KEY WORD ... AS IN SCARED TO SCREW UP SOMETHING BIG TIME.

Recommend you study on-it first, since words don't make for good visuals. Then get back to me if you need pics. I could set up a tutorial series of images later if need be.

BTW, once the shells are laterally aligned, the other "bowing" problem may be solved as well.

Denny_A
My clarification points are not being critical ... just further needed input. As Benny Hill, the English comedian several years ago used to say, "Learning all the time".

Only hope my structure of the sentences makes sense.
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Old 09-11-2004, 08:35 PM   #4
Denny_A
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Question Will Ponder my reply.........

and in the meantime refer you to my post of 3-26-2003, regarding vertical adjustment of shell support arms - i.e., lengthening/shortening. The adjustment(relative motion) occurs where the torsion rod is clamped by the 4 bolts; 4-5 inches above the torsion rod pivot point, about kneecap level:

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...read.php?t=562

Skip to post #4 (do not read #1 - it wiil be confusing, again)

Also, as you surmised, when I stated "street side" I meant curb side.

I plan to be outside taking pictures tomorrow.


Denny_A
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Old 09-12-2004, 05:31 PM   #5
Denny_A
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Smile Images - Adjusting Support Arm Length

I have posted a series of images below. They demonstrate the setup for adjusting support arm length as described in other posts.

The images are labeled so as to supply info as to what's going on. First and foremost, loosen all 4 bolts which clamp support beam to torsion rod. See first pic.

After I see this posted I may come back and edit to include clarification. But, to get it quickly, here goes.

Denny_A
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