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Old 04-24-2018, 09:59 PM   #1
Jeff the marmot
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Default Replace propane fridge with electric compressor fridge?

My wife and I are annoyed with the original refrigerator in our 2720 TM (model year 2009). It's inefficient, temperature is inaccurate, takes a long time to cool down, not much space in it, and doesn't work well in hot weather. The only advantage to it "as is" is the ability to run on propane. But I don't like to drive with the propane on because that's illegal in many places.

I did a search on this forum and didn't see much info. Feel free to point me to a link if I missed it. However, I did find Bruce Peren's article about exactly this topic. His link is here:
http://perens.com/rv/2016/04/04/repl...ompressor-one/

I'm wondering if other people have tried a replacement fridge (marine or other electric compressor fridge) and can contribute any info about lessons learned, what works or doesn't work, possible models that might fit, pros/cons for this upgrade, etc.? What's different about "marine" fridges versus other electric compressor fridges?

It would seem to me that if an electric fridge only uses 50 to 60W and the trailer has decent solar and battery capacity that it wouldn't be much of a concern.

Thanks

Edit: I apologize for starting a new thread about this. This thread was started in a different location and was moved by moderators. I wasn't a "site sponsor" when I started this thread, so a site search yields almost no results about a refrigerator replacement for non-paying members. You have to pay to see the massive amount of info already available in the existing threads on this topic.
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2009 2720SD, swing tongue added by pro welder, Dometic toilet, LEDs inside and out, one solar panel so far, rear view camera, and larger wheels and tires.
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Old 04-25-2018, 12:49 AM   #2
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It's worked excellently. The only time I need my generator is in a shaded site. The only downside is that it costs so much.
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:38 AM   #3
Jeff the marmot
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Bruce - thank you for replying!

I see there is now a Dometic model CRX-110 (apparently with model number CRX-1110). Specs seem 1" narrower and 0.5" shorter and 0.1" less depth than the CR-1110 that you describe in your article. Differences are very subtle from what I can figure out. Looks easy to confuse the two. Can you provide any insight on differences? The CR-1110 that you have obviously fit, and the CRX is only slightly smaller from what I can tell. Might make for a slightly easier install.
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Old 04-25-2018, 03:27 PM   #4
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We thought about the compressor fridge just about every summer when it gets in the mid 90 and above.

But being in an area that is not the best for solar and doing a lot of dry camping in the spring and fall. We have decided to stay with the factory fridge because we don't want to bring a generator all the time to recharge the battries.
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:07 PM   #5
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1 inch narrower might be a little easier to install, but widening the cabinet opening was not dificult. Sealing the area around the refrigerator might be harder. That is a major draft area because the back is open to outside air. Putting a foam panel under the fridge sealed up the largest opening. Foam on the sides just got rid of a space for dust to collect and was extra insulation. We can't hear the compressor at all.

I also screened the fridge vent, as there had been rodent entry through it. They gnawed the plastic. No problem since.
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Old 04-26-2018, 08:24 PM   #6
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Talking AT LEAST three of us have done this. (Link to 4 page-Thread)

Here you go: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...99&postcount=1

It was easy. More than half the time was spent removing the old 3-way. A the bottom, neither the "normal flange" nor the "thin flange" can fit- don't waste money ordering the thin flange, because you'll only be throwing it away. You cut and varnish varnish a few pieces of wood to fill in the small gap under the door.

You use a plane to widen TM's front framing, about 1/8" on each vertical side. If you convert the "T" junction into a straight-through union (going only to the water heater), then you need to have a flare tool. (That's what I did.) Others have left the "T" in place, merely cutting and capping off the fridge propane supply tube.

It holds nearly 50% more stuff, and looks stunning with the stainless steel door. Runs quiet, maintains cold temps in more than 100F ambient, and doesn't freeze your lettuce in the colder pre-dawn hours. We love it!

But with our older model, there is only one thermostat. It measures temps in the well-insulated fridge section, and will not keep the freezer section cold enough (ice cream) when ambient temps are below 90F. We have added a thin layer "space blanket" insulation between the freezer and fridge sections, to help maintain colder freezer temps. That works pretty well.

IIRC, all owners of the Fridge have Solar Power.
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TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 630 watts solar. 450AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
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Old 04-27-2018, 12:36 AM   #7
inghamm
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Default Love my compressor fridge.

I love my compressor fridge. What I like best is the thermostat. I also like that it automatically switches between DC and AC. So it's set it and forget it. With the Norcold 3 way I was constantly monitoring and adjusting.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=18060
It did force me to add solar panels though. With that combination I seem to always have cold food and a charged battery.
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