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Old 08-09-2022, 03:53 PM   #11
Shane826
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The Permatex stuff is thick enough you can fill the holes with it.
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Old 08-12-2022, 09:47 AM   #12
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I've never had a leak in that tank but I had a crack in my kayak once. I did the whole drill stop thing and welded it with this plastic welder. It is well worth the $. I've used it a number of times since.

https://www.harborfreight.com/plasti...ent-96712.html
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Old Yesterday, 11:05 AM   #13
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I followed this video to repair a pretty good sized crack in my grey water tank... It held up well for about 2 years afterward before I sold the trailer.

https://youtu.be/N2rVLU3bDMY
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Old Yesterday, 04:47 PM   #14
CnJ4TMs
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Default Graywater tank leak repair

I have a 2003 2720SD that developed leaks along the longest inverted rib of the graywater tank. I found numerous cracks at the bottom of the longest V-channel that spans the 30 gal tank. The length of this section of cracked v-channel was about 16 inches. I speculate that numerous cycles of the tank bottom bulging under the weight of 25+ gallons of graywater would have the effect of spreading apart the walls of the "V", and over time causing stress cracks. I wanted to repair in place to avoid a lot of headaches.

Anyway, I found a youtube video from 2015 that showed good directions for RV tank repair. To find it, Google "trailerdayz repair youtube" and select the Aug 6, 2015 25:01 video. Note: I had used these directions twice before for repair to a hairline crack and to a thumb-sized hole (!) in the black ABS pipe on my TM back in July 2016. No leaks from those 2 repairs over 6 years ago!

I followed the video directions using homemade thick slurry from black AB pipe shavings plus black Medium ABS cement. (Drilling into ABS pipe works good to get the shavings--clamp the pipe securely and beware a sudden torque to drill when bit breaks through the pipe!) I laid down 2 patch layers with black fiberglass window screen material in each layer for more strength. I then continued adding more patch layers to fill up the inverted v channel and finished with 2 plain coats of ABS cement.

I filled up the entire length (about 40 inches) of that main v-channel rib. It is tedious work on your back in close quarters under the TM. Because you are applying thick layers to fill this channel, you want to give each patch layer plenty of dry time (a week or more) to get good and hard. I used a wood plane to shave down high spots near the end of the process, before finishing off with 2 layers of ABS cement. All told, I took about 5-6 weeks to finish it.
I am retired, 68 yrs old, in no hurry, lol!

To reduce future stress to the repair, i installed a 36 inch long, right-angle thick sheetmetal brace, running front to back (parallel to the TM length) under the center of the tank. I had to custom -make 2 very stiff metal braces that i attached to each side of the long brace, then bolt these to the even-thicker frame material above and near each end of the tank.

The repair withstood a 30 gallon fill to capacity, no leaks. I could see the 36-inch brace bowing under the pressure of that much water on the bottom of the tank, then it returned to straight after dumping the water. An I beam type brace would provide more support.

Traveling far with a nearly full tank, after boondocking and enroute to a dumpsite, may have been the straw that broke the camel's back, causing the cracks to advance toward leak stage. So for prevention, I will try to dump
ASAP in future trips!

Charlie
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Old Yesterday, 08:21 PM   #15
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I used the same approach as Charlie on a leak on the flange of the gray water tank and had good results. No leaks so far. https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=20631

If I have a similar problem in the future, I'll try a product called Plast-Aid, which I wasn't aware of at the time. I've since used it to repair a 1/8" - 1/4" hole in a PVC sprinkler line that was in a location that would have been very difficult to cut out and replace the line. The mend has held for numerous months under the pressure of the sprinkler system. I've also successfully used it to repair a leak in an air mattress. The manufacturer claims it chemically fuses with PVC, ABS and acrylic. Good stuff.

As Charlie suggested, my approach now is to dump the gray water tank ASAP before transporting the TM.
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