SOLUTION: The ultimate fresh water transfer pump

[ThePair]

Originally Posted by Lesherp

I am working on a project that required pulling the sink. As long as I am in there I am installing a accumulator tank also.

Now I am considering ThePair’s “bridge”. I am a bit confused and having problems finding parts. I am considering buying the PEX crimping tool as with the combination of projects it might pay to go that way rather than shark bite and flair-it fittings. Here is some of what is puzzling me.
I am not sure what route the water flows to go from the pump to the holding tank or when used to fill using the female coupler to the high-pressure drain. Part of the problem I think is I don’t fully understand where the valves direct the water.

Okay, let's break down the bridge and water flow. I'll draw a picture later tonight and post it.

Are the valves 3 way valves?

Two of the three valves are 3-ways, one is a stop-valve.

I used two of these: http://www.iplumb.tv/product.aspx?prod=06838
and two of these: http://www.iplumb.tv/product.aspx?prod=06913

These make up the sides of the bridge. Please note that for these 3-ways, the water will always flow through the side opposite the threaded side (i.e. the "outside" port on the bridge, up on the left side, down on the right). The valve just connects that side to either the threaded side or the 90-degree side. This is important for the functionality described in the next post.

The third valve on the top "rung" is this: http://www.iplumb.tv/product.aspx?prod=06880

Where can you get the flair-it fitting? (I looked at home depot and on line but only found 10 packs on line.)

See the links above. This is the company I worked with, they were awesome.

How did ThePair add a female coupler to the high-pressure drain?

I posted that someplace with the photo I took. I used 3/8 tubing and boiling water to attach to the end of the drain spigot (it's tight, but with the boiling water it fits snugly), which worked well, plus a 1/2" female hose repair end.

Picture: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...7&postcount=10

Has ThePair had any problems after instillation?

With the bridge/pump system? Not a one. It's been rock-solid and extremely useful. I no longer worry about limiting water use, because refilling the tank is a non-issue and a no-brainer.

[ThePair]

Ok, I've made some diagrams that will hopefully explain the workings a bit better. The first picture is the stock TM plumbing. I took the liberty of having the output from the pump go "up" so that it's easier to see on the page. In reality, that pipe is under the other high-pressure line -- you can see it in my previous pictures, but functionally this works.

The second picture has the bridge installed, in "normal" mode (bridge is color-coded blue for clarity). All valves are vertical. The arrows indicate water flow, be it from the tank via pump, or from city water. Everything operates just like stock.

The third picture is the "refill" mode, all valves are horizontal. If you trace the water flow, you can see how the self-priming pump will create suction at the city port, which is enough to draw water from a container on the ground. That water will loop backwards through the pressurized side, and end up filling the tank in a retrograde fashion.

The last picture is how I fill the TM when I first pull into a campsite. I hook up to the high pressure drain, and with just the rightmost/lower valve horizontal, the water from the campsite hose will fill the pressurized side (allowing for venting of air via the two pressurized drain valves behind the tire, near the black/gray water outlets). Start the process with these valves open, and close them as they start leaking water. Once those lines (cold & hot pressurized side, and water heater) are full, then the water will continue retrograde to fill the tank. When the tank is full, water will come out the overflow (rerouted to exit below the TM), so you know it's time to close the last drain valve and shut off/disconnect from the campsite supply. Once you set up the TM, you just turn that last valve to vertical, and turn on the pump; since the lines are already completely full of water -- including the hot water heater and the pump itself -- it takes just seconds to reach pressure and the pump stops.

I hope this helps explain the process.

[Lesherp]

This is ingenious. Thank you so much for your information and explanation. I have ordered the parts I need from the place you suggested as I could not find them locally.

I have a couple of other question. I see some type of black connector attaching the line from the holding take to the bridge. It looks similar to the ones used to attach the PEX to the faucet. Is that what it is? In the picture I can’t really see how you attached the bridge to the pump. It looked like you maybe used the original connection going into the pump, some flex hose with a clamp on the bridge. Is this correct or is there another one of the black connectors like the one for the holding tank connection?

[ThePair]

Which picture are you talking about? In the pictures of the bridge (1-3) pic #1 has a black object in the upper right corner. That is the one-way valve that is already present in the TM.

Pic #2 has a dark gray screw-on connector in the lower left attached to the flex hose from the tank. That's a special connector to go from the flair-it to flex hose, also obtainable from the iplumb.tv website: http://www.iplumb.tv/product.aspx?prod=06325

A hint: when you use this connector, do not bother with the yellow "insert" plug that also comes with it; you don't need it, just shove the tubing on and use the gray screw instead of the white one (which comes with the valves, and is for pex only).

I would have posted a total parts list, but honestly I completely forgot that part until you just mentioned it. Plus, I don't have a parts list anymore

As to the pump side, I didn't mess with the connection from flex hose to pump at all. I cut the flex hose and just hooked up to the cut ends, using two of those gray connectors, one on each side of the bridge.

If you haven't gotten one, the pex ratcheting cutter was invaluable to me, also obtained from the same source: http://www.iplumb.tv/product.aspx?prod=01175

[Lesherp]

Thanks for the reply. I actually went to iPlumb and figured out what you had used after I posted and was able to call them and add it to my order. I already have a ratcheting cutter but thanks for the advice. I got mine to work on pvc but works fine on pex.

Thanks so much for all the help.

[Lesherp]

Just wanted to thank you "ThePair" for all your help. Got my bridge built and installed. I tried it out and checked for leaks in the yard. It works great and is so amazing. It is going to make dealing with water when camping so much nicer.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Roger / ThePair -

So for a parts list for the bridge, is this accurate?

2 of these: 06838: MLE T 1/2" X 1/2" MPT X 1/2"
2 of these: 06913: 3-WAY VLV 1/2 X 1/2FPT X 1/2
1 of these: 06880: STRT STP VLV 1/2"
1 of these: 06325: 1/2" FLEX TUBING NUT & INSERT
1 of these: 01175: UNIVERSAL PIPE CUTTER (if you don't already have one; also sold to cut PVC)

Dave

[ThePair]

You'll need 2 of the 06325 items, one for each side to connect to the flex tubing that you'll cut into.

Other than that, I think that looks about right.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Ok, so for the benefit of those who want to do this mod in the future, here is the parts list (I just ordered mine!):

2 of these: 06838: MLE T 1/2" X 1/2" MPT X 1/2"
2 of these: 06913: 3-WAY VLV 1/2 X 1/2FPT X 1/2
1 of these: 06880: STRT STP VLV 1/2"
2 of these: 06325: 1/2" FLEX TUBING NUT & INSERT
1 of these: 01175: UNIVERSAL PIPE CUTTER (if you don't already have one; also sold to cut PVC)
~3 feet of 1/2" PEX

Dave