Norcold fridge not staying lit on gas - interruptor?

[Mr_funnypuns]

OK, my fridge works right on DC, and on AC. Gets nice and chilly. I can get the fridge lit, and the flame indicator moves into the green as long as I have the safety button held. However, when I let it go, the safety valve immediately pops closed.

Got the repair manual, and went through the diagnostic. One side of the interruptor measures normal voltage, while the other side seems to be zero volts.

Looks like a I got a bad interruptor. A few questions:
1) Anything else I should check? Is the interruptor just an electromagnet? Can I measure the resistance of the coil to verify that it's the problem?

2) Any tips on changing the interruptor? Something I should let a pro do the job? If so, where could I find a pro in/near Chicagoland?

3) What else should I consider changing out/having changed as long as that needs work?

4) Any clue how long a job it might be? I've got big fat hands.... I think I'll need to take the counter top off to get at the parts and do the job.

Thanks in advance!

[commodor47]

Originally Posted by Mr_funnypuns

OK, my fridge works right on DC, and on AC. Gets nice and chilly. I can get the fridge lit, and the flame indicator moves into the green as long as I have the safety button held. However, when I let it go, the safety valve immediately pops closed.

Got the repair manual, and went through the diagnostic. One side of the interruptor measures normal voltage, while the other side seems to be zero volts.

Have you looked through this thread? http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=17615

Originally Posted by Mr_funnypuns

Looks like a I got a bad interruptor. A few questions:
1) Anything else I should check? Is the interruptor just an electromagnet?

I believe it is or acts as an electromagnetic

Originally Posted by Mr_funnypuns

Can I measure the resistance of the coil to verify that it's the problem?

If that is possible, it should be described in the above link

Originally Posted by Mr_funnypuns

2) Any tips on changing the interruptor? Something I should let a pro do the job? If so, where could I find a pro in/near Chicagoland?

The interruptor can be accessed by pulling out the refrigerator just enough to work on it. There are a few threads describing how to pull out and or remove the refrigerator. If you are not at all handy it is probably best to let a pro handle the replacement. Any RV repair shop should be able to handle the repair as the refirgerator is not TrailManor specific.

Originally Posted by Mr_funnypuns

3) What else should I consider changing out/having changed as long as that needs work?

I would start with checking the burner. Most causes of a flame out when releasing the safety button are related to a rusted or dirty burner. Although there isn't much room, the burner can be removed, cleaned or replaced as listed in the above link.

Originally Posted by Mr_funnypuns

4) Any clue how long a job it might be? I've got big fat hands.... I think I'll need to take the counter top off to get at the parts and do the job.

Thanks in advance!

I have replaced my interruptor switch, thermocouple and removed and cleaned the burner. All together, if you are somewhat handy, it is probably a 2 hour job to replace the interruptor and clean or replace the burner.

[tentcamper]

We had the same problem, It ended up being an issue that there is a service bulletin. There are 2 wires that you replace. they are short maybe 6-12 inches long. You can buy them or I made mine. The kit is NORCOLD WIRE KIT 628119