Lower door jamb problems

We went on our first outing, (shake down) Tuesday and Wednesday. I had a couple of problems and could not find answers on forum.

1. I leveled front to back and side to side. When I opened the TM, the lower door jamb was hitting the upper door jamb. I had to twist TM by raising back right stabilizer so the lower door jamb would clear the upper door jamb. I since leveled the TM on tongue jack front to back and level side to side before any stabilizers were lowered. The door jamb worked ok this way. It only had the problem when it was on all four stabilzers and no tongue jack.

2. The lower door jamb has a small block of wood painted white that stops the door jamb from going in far enough to get the door inside for closing TM. I have attached 6 pictures to help explain. #1 is the white block. #2 is a picture looking down on the lower door jamb and lower door at the point of trying to get the door inside. #3 is another view of the same. #4 shows after moving the door jamb far enough for door to clear. At this point the block is knocked off. #5 is a brace in front of the door that keeps the door from moving any more forward. #6 is the result.

I have a new 3326 King. Any ideas???

Thanks

Walt

How do I get the door inside the TM. The lower door jamb can move 180 degrees. All the way out, it is used to close and lock the door normally. The door can't be moved inside past that point (picture #2). If I move the jamb inside it is not far enough for the door to get past the jamb.

If notice in picture 5, the door can't go inside either.

Thanks for the response.

In picture 5, there is a trianguler piece of wood that is keeping the door from pivoting inside the TM. The hinge, pivots for door to open and close as you specify, but the other hinge should let it swing inside the TM, but it can only swing so far in before it hits the triangular piece of wood.

I am not very good at explaining things. That is why I took the pictures. I am apparently not very good at taking picture either.

Originally Posted by Texas_Camper

OK.. if the triangular piece of wood is the culprit, let's go this way. Pic 5 shows the jamb that is hinged to the door (it sticks out from the facing) and the other hinge next to the triangular piece of wood. That facing (with the double hinge) has a pin on top that fits into a clip on the shell. I think if you open the door half way, and strike the jamb with the heel of your hand, it will dislodge the pin and allow the second hinge to work...

I can dislodge the pin and the secon hinge to work. The hinge on the right is the hinge that the door pivots on to open and close the door normally. Once the pin is dislodged from the upper door, the hinge on the left now pivots around so I should be able to move the door inside the TM then move the door back to the left to align with left door jamb and hook with the screen door hook. The problem is the door will not go back into the TM far enought to swing the door inside. It will not go back on the right side any more because the triangular piece of wood in picture #5 is in the way. It is either remove this triangular piece of wood or the white piece of wood on the left side of the door.

Thanks again for the response.

Originally Posted by Texas_Camper

I still think you are swinging the left jamb open before you swing the door into the TM. The left jamb should remain locked in place with the pin in the clip, until the door is fully swung into the TM. But if the triangular piece of wood is blocking, I don't know. Page 15 of the owners manual has a good description and pictoral of the door closing procedure...
My 2619 does not have that piece nor the white pieces on the door either

Leon, you are absolutely CORRECT. I was dislodging the door jamb first and swinging it inside. Then I would dislodge the door pin on the right side. I went out and tried the right door pin first and then the left door jab pin. Works great.

Thanks for your patience.

I really feel dumb. I sure appreciate you patience.

Do you have any ideas on why I have to twist the TM to get the lower door jamb clear of the upper door jamb when opening TM? If I do not twist TM, it is hard to open lower door jamb and once it is open, the door is hard to close.

Thanks...

wboudx,

good morning. I'm new to this site, thinking about upgrading from our Fleetwood pop-up to the TM. I'm finding lots of questions are being answered here and I hope that by this fall or next spring I will be a proud owner of a Trailmanor!

Anyway, to your question about twisting the TM to get things lined up...again, I don't have one yet so I am making an assumption here. With most 'pop up' style campers you need to raise the roof first and then set the stabilizers. Doing the stabilizers before lifting the sides and roof into place can cause it to bind. I would suspect that is the case here, although I haven't read the manual and it may say to stabilize first. In that case ignore what I said!

Originally Posted by Texas_Camper

I am a student of the old school. I like to level side to side first by placing lego type blocks or boards under the low side wheel, then fore and aft with the tounge jack. Then I put the screw jacks down.

Again thanks for the response. I read your post 3 times to make sure I understand what you are saying this time. Yesterday, I went through several procedures to level TM. One of the procedures was your old school method. The TM is on my drive way and that part of the drive is level side to side. I level the TM with the tongue jack then lower all the stabilizers with my portable drill set on 6. Anything less than 6 and it will not turn the screws in the stabilizers. I was thinking lowering stabilizers by hand to finish was putting too much strain on one of the corners. With the drill on 6, all stabilizers were getting the same pressure. I tried this procedure doing front, then back. Then I tried back, then front. Then left side, right side. Then right side, left side. Then clockwise. Then counterclockwise. In every case, the lower door jamb would not clear upper door jamb without forcing. In every case, I turned the right back stabilizer 8 turns. It cleared at 5 turns but was better at 8 turns (appox 1/2 inch rise). About half way through these procedures, I just left the shells up.

Originally Posted by Killman

wboudx,

good morning. I'm new to this site, thinking about upgrading from our Fleetwood pop-up to the TM. I'm finding lots of questions are being answered here and I hope that by this fall or next spring I will be a proud owner of a Trailmanor!

Anyway, to your question about twisting the TM to get things lined up...again, I don't have one yet so I am making an assumption here. With most 'pop up' style campers you need to raise the roof first and then set the stabilizers. Doing the stabilizers before lifting the sides and roof into place can cause it to bind. I would suspect that is the case here, although I haven't read the manual and it may say to stabilize first. In that case ignore what I said!

Thanks for the response.

I did try it with TM open completely, and with just the shells open. I did not try all iterations as I explained to Leon.

[ripp1202]

So what you saying is you leveled the trailer and 8 turns of the back right jack door side and the door closed great?