Question about a potential fried hot water element.

[Dagrip]

After returning from a trip in our 2007 2720SL this past weekend I am now experiencing the tripping GFCI issue. I am pretty sure that I did indeed leave the outside switch on without water in the hot water tank (I was confused on the purpose of the inside and outside switches). The water did not heat until I turned on the propane so I do know that the electical piece is not working

My concern right now is that the GFCI continues to pop even with the outside hot water switch turned off. From what I have read I should be able to turn off the outside switch and then have the GFCI hold if the problem is due to a fried element. I have verifed that everything works fine with the "Water Heater, Fridge, and Converter" breaker turned off.

We have a trip planned next weekend so my hope is to heat the water using propane and then deal with the electrical piece when I get time.

Based on your experiences does it appear that the "short" is coming from somewhere other than the element?

Thanks as always!

Scott

[Bill]

Scott -

I would have expected the problem to go away when the water heater was switched off, but if the failure is a neutral-to-ground connection, the GFI (presumably the GFI in the campground or house, not the one in the TM) could still trip. So it still sounds like the water heater. Unfortunately, there is no way to be sure except to physically disconnect the water heater element. The outside water heater switch effectively disconnects the black (hot) wire. So now, as an experiment to confirm the diagnosis, you can disconnect the white (neutral) wire from the heating element. It just requires a screwdriver. I wouldn't recommend travelling with it that way unless you are confident that you can insulate the disconnected end and tie it up out of the way. If it gets loose, it can cause more nuisance trips.

Replacing the element is not hard. You just have to get a new element (any RV place), and the big socket wrench (1 1/16"? probably get it from Lowe's or a big hardware store) to pull it out and replace it. Presuming you are going camping in a week, you might get it done.

Or (dare I say it?) an RV service place could do the job in 15 minutes, if you can convince them to schedule you.

Bill

[Dagrip]

Thanks Bill. I disconnected the neutral from the heating element and am now able to power the trailer without kicking the GFI.

Can I now assume that the element is the source of the problem and that replacing it should resolve my issue?

Thanks again!

Scott

[Bill]

Yes, I believe you can. While you have the element out of the heater, it would be a good idea to flush the heater with a good strong stream of water, to get rid of whatever detritus was formed when the element fried.

Bill

[Dagrip]

Thanks Bill!