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08-14-2009, 07:06 AM
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#1
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 152
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Gray Water Dump Valve Lubrication
My gray water valve is stiff to open and close. I have tried the stuff you pour in the tank to help with the lubrication of the valve. It hasn't improved the situation. Does any one have other recommendation? I'm thinking of trying to use a silicon spray lubricant on the handle shaft and up the drain pipe. I believe I read a post where someone did something like this but I haven't been able to find the post using the search. Thanks.
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Rick Newcomb
2012 TM2720
2008 Toyota Highlander
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08-14-2009, 07:45 AM
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#2
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Blandford, MA
Posts: 1,045
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Rick,
Found this in a book titled Rv Living In The 21st Century: The Essential Reference Guide For All Rvers, By Peggi McDonald
Dick
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Dick & Jeri in Western MA
2003 2720 SL
2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Limited 4x4 - V8
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08-14-2009, 03:28 PM
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#3
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Guest
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Rick, try going to rvforum.net and search "replacing a dump valve", They have a solution.
I do disagree with their idea of using vasoline or something similar.
Many years ago when I was in the swimming pool equipment repair business we had master plumbers and manufacturer reps. suggest we use "Dow Corning 111 silicone lubricant", I know its still available, maybe a different # now.
You can probably take your old valve apart and if the rubber type gasket/seal is not torn you can just lubricate it.
If you get a new one and do the 4 screw repalcement ust the Dow Corning product on the new one and it will not tighten up on you as long as you own the rv.
We used it on 1 1/2" and 2" multi-port valves that changed the direction of water flowing at 50-75 gal per minute and it would be good for a couple of years.
Most other products are washed away with water after awhile.
John
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08-14-2009, 03:32 PM
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#4
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Guest
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You can also try Jacks Lubricant found at many pool stores. It does nto attack the rubber and stands up to the chemicals.
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08-14-2009, 09:09 PM
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#5
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Guest
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I am not having any problems withe the exterior valve, but the one at the base of the toilet certainly dos not pull as easy as it did when it was new, 4 years ago. I keep worrying that I will break the T handle when I pull, ever so gently. Pushing it back in does not seem to be risky.
I see several different products that are intended to lubricate the seals. I amy try that. I think I need it RSN (Real Soon Now) for the interior toilet valve. Externally, it would be a pre-emptive move.
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08-17-2009, 06:54 AM
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#6
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 152
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Thanks for all the responses.
I have a tube of Jacks Lubricant left from when I owned an above ground pool. I have found it useful for some home plumbing projects. I agree with not using vasoline.
I'll let you know how I make out.
commodore47,
I gave a thank you wave yesterday on my way to Tanglewood.
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Rick Newcomb
2012 TM2720
2008 Toyota Highlander
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08-17-2009, 05:32 PM
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#7
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 152
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Success!
I was able to reach up through the dischard pipe to the gray water slide valve. Of course I had on a rubber glove. I applied the silcon lubricant and the valved moved much easier. I added a little lubricant to the metal shaft of the handle that made it work even better. My gray water dump valve works as good as the day I bought it 10 years ago.
When I got out the silcon lubricant, it was actually Magic Lube II silicon lubricant.
Thanks everyone.
__________________
Rick Newcomb
2012 TM2720
2008 Toyota Highlander
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