Water Heater Leak

**WildWG** · 09-17-2006, 04:14 PM

Well, thanks to this forum, I finally stopped my gushing water heater P/T relief valve by replacing it with a new one. Then, all worked great with the water heater, that is, until I decided to check the anode. My anode appears to be aluminum and it is very smooth with practically no pitting. So, I put it back. But, now I have a leak from it. I have removed it twice more, cleaned the threads on the anode and going into the heater and placed two layers of teflon tape on the anode threads. I still have an ever so slight leak. At this point, I am going out every hour or so, checking for a leak, which I am finding, and then giving the anode about a 3 degree tightening twist, hoping that this will be the final one. I figure that when I crank up the water heater, the leak will get worse. Anyone had a similar experience? Any advice?

WWG

Speckul8r · 09-18-2006, 08:05 AM

When I plumbed my house, I had some issues with Teflon tape. Still do occasionally. I've found that less is best, and 2 layers sounds right, but if it still leaks, old time pipe dope usually solves the problem fo me. I'm assuming that there is no cross threading involved.
I think I would take it off, one more time, and clean the threads real good with a brass or SS wire brush. Then wrap it and try it again. If it still leaks, go with the pipe dope.

**WildWG** · 09-18-2006, 05:08 PM

The advice sounds good, and I am going to follow it. I'll keep you posted.

Thank You

WWG

**WildWG** · 09-19-2006, 08:38 PM

Teflon failed to do it, even after thread cleaning with SS brush. I'm trying the "pipe dope". Never used this stuff before. Does it go on male threads only, female only or both? What happens if some of it gets into the heater's interior?

WWG

09-19-2006, 09:49 PM

Pipe dope also comes in tubes and is about the consistancy of drywall compound. Make sure you get the right kind. There is one kind for plumbing and another for gas pipe. Some kinds will work on both. I just put it on the male threads as Leon stated and I have never had a problem with it. One thing to pay attention to with teflon. Make sure your wrap it counter clockwise since things tighten clockwise. Only time I have had leaks is when I get this backwards. I take it apart and wrap it to other direction.

Speckul8r · 09-20-2006, 07:29 AM

Doug sure is right about the backwards wrap. It'll never seal that way. I had clean forgotten about that error since it is now 2nd nature for me to do it the corrrect direction.

I like the pipe dope in the tube the best for this application. The grey stuff has been the best if you intent to remove the fitting again, which you will do in this case. There is some blue dope that does both gas and water pipes but that stuff is a bear to undo so check b4 buying. I'm sure color is of no consequence but this is the stuff I have dealt with. The reference to the consistancy is very close. Male threads only.

Very little will get into the heaters interior. It's inert so you won't get poisoned nor will it effect the heaters element.

**WildWG** · 09-20-2006, 08:51 AM

You folks are great. I now feel totally secure working with the "dope", or "pipe thread sealant" as it is labeled. I was aware of the need to wrap teflon tape so that it would tend to tighten. I don't know where my water heater was manufactured, though I trust somewhere in the USA. The anode is stamped "CHINA", and it's threads appear to be not so finely cut. As I remember, the anode seemed to have been "doped" rather than "taped" when I removed it.

WWG

**WildWG** · 09-21-2006, 08:46 PM

Pipe Dope Rocks!

WWG