2 year follow-up on Velcro replacement

2 years ago my wife and I had to replace most of the original Velcro hook strips on the inside walls of our 1999 3124KS. As the adhesive on these original hook strips was failing, the strips were peeling off the walls. Initially we replaced them with Velcro strips purchased from a local hardware store. These replacement strips, however, began to peel off within 2 to 3 months. We then ordered 1" wide "Super-adhesive Nylon hook strips" from McMaster-Carr Supply Co. and applied these to the walls.

I am happy to report that 2 years later the Super-adhesive Nylon hook strips are still attached firmly to the inside walls of our TM. Only one short hook strip has a buckle near its middle where it has come away slightly from the wall. Here in our Central Valley of California our TM has been subjected to very hot summers and moderately cold winters - though we've tried to keep it stored in the shade of trees.

If you're contemplating replacing your Velcro strips, I'd recommend that you use the Super-adhesive Nylon Velcro strips. You shouldn't waste your time and money applying the "Industrial-strength Velcro strips" that are frequently sold in your local hardware and Big-box stores. Be sure to clean every bit of the old adhesive from the walls of your TM to insure the best bonding possible of your replacement strips.

Larry

[B_and_D]

Larry - would that be part #94985K113 (this is the 10 foot length)?

We have a couple of strips that should be replaced.

I still have not found anything to replace the nylon(?) strips that were attached to the underside of the rear bed that slides over the lower half. The factory told me that they don't have this material available any more. Ideally, it would be in an "L" shape, about two inches wide on each side. Got any ideas?

D

B_and_D, yes, that is the correct McMaster-Carr catalog number for the 10' lengths of white, 1" wide Super-adhesive Nylon hook strips.

When we removed the old factory-installed Velcro strips, we found a thick, gummy layer of old adhesive stuck to the walls underneath each strip. It took a lot of effort scraping with a knife and much wiping with paint thinner moistened cloth to get this off. But you will need to get the old adhesive off if you want your new strips to stick on well.

My 3124KS currently is closed down so I haven't been able to take a look at the rubbing strips underneath its king bed. Our bed may not have the same rubbing strips as those underneath your 2720 model. How thick are the Nylon strips? When you say that they have an "L shape," do you mean that their cross section is in the shape of an L? Would 10 mil thick (0.010" thick) ultrahigh molecular weight (UHMW) polyethylene, self-adhesive tape suffice as a replacement for your torn Nylon strips? If this thickness is sufficient, you could apply half of the width to the bottom of the rail and the remaining half to the side (it will take some preparation and careful application to avoid ending up with a messed-up job containing wrinkles in the surfaces) McMaster-Carr, unfortunately, does not sell the UHMW poly. tape in 4" widths. You may have to order the 6" width and cut that down to a 4" width. You could, however, apply the surplus 2" width to the roof of your TM to prevent paint from rubbing off where the two shells rub against each other - see the recent thread addressing this. If the strip is very thick, McMaster-Carr does sell a 2" x 2" angle that is 1/4" thick. It's quite expensive, though, as it lists for about $2.30 a foot. Or, you could purchase 2" wide x 1/8" thick strips of UHMW poly. and attach them with countersunk screws - one such strip on the bottom and a second on the side. Nylon, by the way, usually is more expensive but not as durable as UHMW polyethylene.

[B_and_D]

Thanks Larry, for the info on the bed slide material. That website is great.

I'm thinking that what might work is part 8672K36, it's 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 (I went back out and measured), can be cut up to 10' long, and 1/4 inch thick, Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) Polyethylene. I think the additional thickness will help with counter-sinking the screws. It's important that they are perfectly flush (or even below the surface) so that they don't scratch what they're rubbing against. The material has to be at least 60" long and slide well. It must be fairly strong. I hope that 1/4" thick won't be too thick, what's left of what's on the TM is pretty thin, like maybe 1 cm?

There is polypropylene too, part #87215K35, and fiberglass, part #8542K52.

The new "L" can really only be fastened with screws to the bed (the side) as the top part is covered with fabric (over an aluminum L). I could also glue the fabric to the top part of the L to get it to hold.

I don't know much about plastics, but from the info on the website I'm leaning towards the 8672K36.

How thick is the Nylon rubbing strip that's currently installed on the rails? A 1 cm. thick strip is not a thin strip; 1 cm. is equivalent to 0.39" and that's a lot thicker than 1/4" or 0.25".

If the bottom surface of your bed rails is flat and smooth, I would think that 10 mil thick UHMW tape should do a fine job of providing a low friction sliding surface. If the bottom surface of the rails is not flat or smooth, consider attaching a length of aluminum angle to it and then overlay that with the 10 mil UHMW tape. A 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" thick aluminum angle can be securely screwed to the rails with countersunk head screws - and this combination would be less expensive than purchasing lengths of solid UHMW angles. Another advantage of using this combination is that it would be easier to apply the UHMW tape to the aluminum angles before you attach them to the undersides of the rails.

[B_and_D]

I meant "millimeter", not centimeter! The material is very thin. I think that's why it failed, it was too flimsy. I went back out and looked at the bed slides, and 1/4th inch seems like it's going to be too wide, so your idea about the tape might be the way to go. There's already an aluminum "L" that the bed is attached to, so I could put the tape on there. On the side, outside of the "L", there is pressed board glued onto the "L", the tape would also have to go on top of that. I think it's worth a try.

Thanks.