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Old 04-22-2011, 12:35 PM   #11
92cabby
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Here's an issue that's not thought of too often. If you have tire scrub it will affect your gas mileage. If you're only taking a few short trips every year it probably won't have any effect on your pocketbook. However, if you're making a lot of long trips you will notice a difference, especially at $4 plus per gallon. Personally, I'm really concerned with the potential of having a high speed blowout and all the damage that it could do to the trailer. So I tend to stop every 100 miles or so and touch the hubs and tires with my hand. I also carry a no contact infrared thermometer, which has a lot of other handy applications. Last year I put on a set of Kumho 14’s, with metal valve stems, so far so good.
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:09 PM   #12
hillbillyhotel
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hi all
have been reading on a lift for the tm,(grt job bill) i tend to overload and need that extra with 15inch tires, looking at pic and other threads ,ours seems to be made diff, it is a 91 23, it has the springs and not bolted to frame,seems i could just add a block to the axle housing and do new u bolts,or even thought of adding a couple of leafs to the springs,to get some lift, but also i am worried about the size of 15 tires with the frame rail that runs behind the tires, i seen where mnd4kids had same concern , just over 1 inch of clearance now with the 14 tires on it, plz feel free to send any advice,
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:47 PM   #13
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hi all
have been reading on a lift for the tm,(grt job bill) i tend to overload and need that extra with 15inch tires, looking at pic and other threads ,ours seems to be made diff, it is a 91 23, it has the springs and not bolted to frame,seems i could just add a block to the axle housing and do new u bolts,or even thought of adding a couple of leafs to the springs,to get some lift, but also i am worried about the size of 15 tires with the frame rail that runs behind the tires, i seen where mnd4kids had same concern , just over 1 inch of clearance now with the 14 tires on it, plz feel free to send any advice,
Randy,
This isn't my area of knowledge but the springs don't appear to have enough arch. Maybe new springs and mount them on top of the axle would work?
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:08 PM   #14
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did not even think of that, had a jeep truck once and it's springs where on top of the axle, unlike the other trucks i had, will need to do some mensuring to make sure that will not be to much, i do think i am on the right track with spring work,
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RANDY & VICKIE
2003 3124 KS
TV 02 AVALANCHE 2500 4X4 8.1L
W/ PRODIGY B.C.,MAXXIS 10 PLY,HONDA 3000I

TM HISTORY
(88) TM 25 KING, (91) TM 23,(98) 3023, (03) 3124KS
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:36 PM   #15
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i am worried about the size of 15 tires with the frame rail that runs behind the tires
Looking at the third photo, it looks to me like you have plenty of clearance behind the tire. The radius of a 15" tire is only a fraction of an inch greater than the radius of a 14" tire - you should look it up for the tires you have in mind. But since the tire moves up and down (not fore and aft) as the suspension flexes, I can't see a problem.

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Old 01-04-2012, 07:54 PM   #16
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Randy,
This isn't my area of knowledge but the springs don't appear to have enough arch. Maybe new springs and mount them on top of the axle would work?
That was my initial thought too. I'd consult a spring shop for their suggestion. There was a pretty good size one in Portland, OR as I recall, so I know such places are out there.

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Old 01-04-2012, 08:08 PM   #17
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good to hear tires are not going to be a problem,(tks bill) got a good spring shop close, they done work on a wrangler i had , i am thinking of haveing these resprung if none are cracked and adding one leaf,should get me about 3 inch, this may be easier then the other way of lifting,
tks for the help
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2003 3124 KS
TV 02 AVALANCHE 2500 4X4 8.1L
W/ PRODIGY B.C.,MAXXIS 10 PLY,HONDA 3000I

TM HISTORY
(88) TM 25 KING, (91) TM 23,(98) 3023, (03) 3124KS
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:22 AM   #18
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Randy,

My "89 TM 23 has the same spring setup. I thought of putting the springs on top of the axle but I am concerned about the flat surface of the bottom of the spring resting on the round surface of the top of the axle. I would think that with highway travel it might begin to flatten the top of the axle and become loose. Maybe if something was first put on top of the axle to spread the weight out over a larger surface. Just my 2 cents.

But I have also been thinking about the "U" shaped bracket hanger at each end of the springs where the springs bolt to the frame. I am thinking of going to a welding shop and having a new longer "U" shaped hanger brackets made that will raise the TM. I have not come to a final decision yet and will be anxious to learn of your results.

Tom
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:00 PM   #19
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I thought of putting the springs on top of the axle but I am concerned about the flat surface of the bottom of the spring resting on the round surface of the top of the axle.
To solve this problem:
1) Disconnect electric brakes and unbolt the axle from the springs.
2) Turn the axle so the street side brake drum is on the curb side and the curb side brake drum is on the street side.
3) Rotate the axle to put the welded spring mounts on top.
4) Install springs using new u-bolts and reconnect the electric brakes.
This keeps the trailing side brake shoe on the back side of the brake drums.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:56 PM   #20
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Good thinking Mike,

I am usually good with abstract concepts but I couldn't get my mind around that. I had to draw the axle and brakes on paper, spin it and twist it before I could visualize it. I will have to go look at the u-bolt mount to be sure but it seems like it will work.

Many thanks,
Tom
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