Refrigerator

Wow! You folks are fast to help and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Based on your replies, I checked the suggested items on the NorcoldN300.3:
(1) Both in-line fuses are OK (20A and a smaller fuse)
(2) The 12VDC heater is OK measuring 1.2 ohms
(3) One end of the heater is grounded OK
(4) The other lead does NOT have 12VDC applied with refrigerator set to Battery operation and control set to 5.
(5) There is 12VDC at the terminal block at back of refrigerator. (The upper right 2 terminals on terminal block)

Does anyone have a schematic or know how the 12VDC is supposed to get to the heating element?

[Bill]

Wayne -

No, he doesn't need the famous NORCOLD MAGIC FIX. That fix was related to the gas flame not staying lit.

Bert -

The smaller fuse is the 3-amp unit for 120 VAC operation.

I hate to say it, but the Changeover switch (I call it the mode switch) may be bad. Is your unit still under warranty? Have you tugged on each of the wire connections?

The schematic diagram is very straightforward - this is a VERY simple circuit. If you have the Blue Book that came with your TM (Owner's Manual plus appliance manuals), it is all laid out in the Norcold Refrigerator booklet. If you don't have it, PM me with an email address and I will scan the relevant pages for you. But basically, it is

12VDCPower -> 20 amp Fuse -> Heater -> 12VDC return. Nothing more.

Let us know how this comes out.

Bill

Bill

I am afraid you are correct. It's a 2004 bought in June 2005 so no warranty. I do not seem to have any manual that shows the schematic. From your last post, I am guessing the circuit is:

+12VDC -> Selector Switch -> 20A Fuse -> Heater -> Ground.

I have checked for loose wire connections except the wires on the Selector Switch. Tomorrow, maybe pull the radio and 12V receptacle to see if I can get at the Selector connections without pulling the refrigerator.

Thanks again for all the help,

Thanks all:

Bit the bullet this morning and pulled the refrigerator out 6 inches. As others have said, pulling refrigerator out 6 inches is easy. Remove door and bottom trim strip and 6 screws.
Found the 12VDC supply wire to the Selector switch un-connected. Plugged it onto the Selector and refrigerator now working on 12DVC.
Have had the 3023 for about 16 months but had never tested the refrigerator on 12VDC. Recently discovered the problem when we made an 18 hour marathon run and figured to use the 12V mode in spite of the battery discharge issue. (I have a Yamaha 1K generator). Arrived and checked the battery voltage and, to my surprise, it was fully charged. However, when I went for ice cubes to make a gin & tonic, just found water in the tray :-(

Anyway, thanks again for the help. This is a really great site.

Thanks: All

I ordered the replacement part# 628119 from PPL Motorhomes in Houston, TX
Including shipping $20.50. From start to finish about 20 minutes to do. After closer exmination of the origianal wires the problem was caused by the connectors not crimped tight enough. I could hold the wire and twist the connector around and around with no effort- a correct crimp and this could not happen. The replacemnt wires have a better connecor setup than the originals. If you have a crimping tool snd connectors there is enough wire to cut off the old connectors and replace with new ones. You could try and crimp the original connectors but I beieve the best fix is to at least replace the connectors and especially if you need a quick fix. I attached a file that might be of help in future toubleshooting of the frig. The unit I have is a 2005 year model and experienced this problem on trip I took in October for the first time.

Thanks again Jim

Bill
I still have a tussle with mine each time I light it. The crimp is tight (I may have tightened it a year or so ago) but my problem is that the spade lugs inside the interruptor are not tight. They turn side to side easily. By remving the radio cover and manhandling this connection, the refrig lights and has stayed lit for the duration of the campout.

[Harry Womack]

I replaced the 2 wires to the interruptor last spring. The problem of staying lite went away. I could not find any thing wrong with the old wires. I had the same problem of wiggling the wires and the flame would stay lite until next time you turned it on.

[commodor47]

Originally Posted by BobRederick

Bill
I still have a tussle with mine each time I light it. The crimp is tight (I may have tightened it a year or so ago) but my problem is that the spade lugs inside the interruptor are not tight. They turn side to side easily. By remving the radio cover and manhandling this connection, the refrig lights and has stayed lit for the duration of the campout.

Bob,

My connectors are tight but still lost continuity over time. I finally removed each connector and applied a dab of dielectric grease and firmly re-attached the wires. To date the refrigerator has operated on propane without incident.

Dick

Hi Iam A New Tm Owner,1990,my Problem Is Everytime I Plug The Refrig. In Outlet On Back Of Tm It Trips The Breaker,it Works Fine On Gas,also Does Anyone Know What To Use To Replace The Upper Inside Trim Pad, The Wood Under It Was Rotted,thanks-mike

[B_and_D]

Have you tried plugging the refrigerator into a different outlet (or shore power)? Breakers can go bad, but it may be that something inside the frig is awry. At least it works on gas, and that's always available as long as the propane tanks have some propane in them!

Can you post a picture of the "trim pad" that you need to replace? I'm not sure what it is that you're trying to fix here.