Fridge DC switch question

[ShrimpBurrito]

Here's the wiring diagram from my blue binder.

Dave

[mjlaupp]

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

Here's the wiring diagram from my blue binder.

Caution: This wiring diagram is only correct for 2004 and older TMs using the 6300 converter.
Mike

[ThePair]

Thanks

I thought I saw something once that also had the wall switch indicated...which almost looked like the water heater electricity was controlled through the bathroom wall switch (was my question at that time) but I'm not sure I had a local copy of that diagram--I'll need to look at home, I just didn't find it yesterday. Looking at yours triggered a deep memory in the dank dark depths of my brain. :P

Edit: Found it on this site, page 37 of the 2008 owner's manual. It shows a 20A fuse connecting via 12G black wire to both the radio and fridge (and fridge fan, switched). It also shows a separate 7.5A fuse for the monitor panel, whereas my fuse listing at the converter seems to have them all on the same fuse (I'll need to print this out and check to see what's what--things may have changed from 2008 to 2009.5)

There is a separate 20A fuse/breaker listed for the fridge + water heater, which is for the 120V leg of things.

[Bill]

ThePair -

You are right, and I'm wrong. My 2006 Owners Manual has a diagram that is almost exactly the same as the one Dave posted, and it shows separate DC circuits for the refrigerator and radio. But the 2008 diagram shows it exactly as you describe - refrig and radio on the same fuse. I don't know why TM does this, and I disagree with their decision to do it - but that is beside the point. They do it.

As I recall, there is plenty of space for added fuses in the converter. If I owned one of these late-model TMs, I would add another fuse, and separate the refrig onto its own circuit. But that's just me. FWIW, I did this long ago on the AC side, where the refrig is on the same circuit breaker as the water heater.

Thanks for staying on this, and teaching me something I didn't know.

Bill

Good clarification. My removing the fuse for the radio apparently works because my TM is a 2005.

I would not want the fridge on the same circuit as any other appliance for the reason previously mentioned. I would modify the wiring.

But not everyone is comfortable working with electricity.

[ThePair]

Is it something straightforward? Part of me says "Why break what's not broken?" Another part says "Tinker, it'll be better when you're done".

My concern is, if I'm imagining things properly, is that there's a power wire that probably doesn't split for fridge/radio until it's in place over the fridge. That's the most logical way to do it, if you're willing to run them both through the one fuse. Which would then mean redoing the fuse involves pulling another wire for power to one of the two, from the panel out to the cabinet. I don't relish that, truthfully.

...which then brings us right back to the concept of putting a separate power switch on the radio. If I shut it off completely when not in use, that's the same as the fridge being on it's own fuse, isn't it? The only times I'd be using the radio is if the TM is open, and I wouldn't be running the fridge off DC at that time, anyway.

Which then gets back to the original question: What's the most expedient way to add a switch for the radio (let's say, under the sink)? Pull out the radio (how?) or access the wires via some other method (pull off a plate on the cable/outlet/amp side?)

I'm thinking the radio slot is big enough, if I can pull it out the rest would be simple. But, how do I pull it out?

[commodor47]

Originally Posted by ThePair

I'm thinking the radio slot is big enough, if I can pull it out the rest would be simple. But, how do I pull it out?

Attached is a photo which shows how my radio can be removed. If yours is similar, using the correct tool: remove the face plate; then insert the tool to release the radio from it's case. You should then be able to see how the radio case is anchored to the open slot. You can also remove the outside, upper refrigerator compartment grill for further access to the area. On my unit there is small piece of thin plywood-type material installed at an angle that blocks access to the area above the refrigerator. Removing that piece of wood should give you access to the radio slot - and any wiring. Don't forget to cut all power before attempting access via the upper refrigerator grill area.

[ThePair]

Hm. So I need to (a) find the tool, hopefully with the manual, then (b) hope the sleeve that's in the "dash" isn't too restrictive. Hm.

I think going in via the upper fridge grate may be easier, if that panel is easy to remove. I remember seeing it there, but I didn't bother to assess how to get it off. I'd imagine that it shouldn't be too much more than a few screws.

Now I need to go find a little switch to hide under the sink, too.

[Bill]

As Commodor47's diagram shows, some radios use a pair of flat sheet metal tools to release the clips that hold the radio in. More common, at least in days past, is a pair of round rods, each bent into a U-shape. The front of the radio has two pairs of vertically-aligned holes, one on each side. Pushing the tools into the pairs of holes releases the clips. Attached is a pic that I swiped from crutchfield.com - you learn a lot by rummaging around that site.

The point is, I suppose, that almost any radio can be released and removed from the front panel, if you can identify what tool you need. And you can identify the tool by reading the owner's manual, as you say, or looking up the owner's manual on the Internet.

It should be easy to check the back of the fuse panel and see if there is one wire or two wires runing to that particular fuse. Disconnect the battery and shore power first, of course.

Bill

My radio uses a pair of flat blades. I could not find them. So I used a pair of hacksaw blades.

You can also access the back side of the radio from outside the TM:

Remove the top vent panel behind the fridge.
Remove the three screws that hold the curved piece of aluminum and the top of the fridge fan air duct.

Many radios have two hot leads. One is normally wired to a permanent hot lead to keep power to remember settings. The other is normally wired to a wire taht is only hot when the key is on.

You will want to wire both of these together to your switch.

You may discover that when you flip your switch that the radio no longer remembers the one touch channel settings and your preferences for treble and base.