Set up and leveling question

Originally Posted by Bill

Catawbalea -

I agree with you, but I think your timing is wrong. IIRC, the older TMs (older than, say, 2000?) had stabilizers - small drop-down things like you would find on a tent trailer. By 2002 (my first TM), they had changed to true screw jacks rated at 5000 pounds each. My 2006 model still has these hefty screw jacks. I believe that the recent change you refer to was reported to be on the 2007 models.

Bill

My 1996 2518 has what I believe are scissor jacks. They create a diamond shaped space with a long threaded rod running horizontally through the middle and a rectangular foot. Am I using the right terminology?
Cheri

[B_and_D]

Cheri, it sounds like someone added those after market; yes they do sound like scissor jacks. Our 97 has the tent-trailer style stabilizers. They swing down and lock into place, then you can lower the inner metal tube (that has a rectangular or square foot?) onto the ground and tighten it up with a long metal rod. They are purely for stabilizing and can't be used to jack up the trailer in case of a flat, etc.

Yes, that's what we had on our tent trailer.
When we got our TM last year and got a flat, a well meaning tow truck driver stopped to help us. We were having trouble getting the TM jacked up high enough with our auto jack. He started cranking away on one of the rear scissor jacks and I was cringing cause I thought it would break under the pressure. Luckily it did not but it groaned like it was in pain.
Cheri

Again, my 2007 has rectangular pads. It is an early one, but it does have rectangular pads.

[commodor47]

RCCBV1,

Guess I shouldn't have assumed all 2007 models have the circular pads . . . based on the 2619 I observed set up. Lesson learned.

When teaching my daughters and sons-in-laws to back a trailer, I stress having the tow vehicle and trailer straightened out to begin. Then, grab the steering wheel in the center at the bottom, and move it in the direction you want the tail of the trailer to go. Once you have it moving, backing off will lessen the curve, cranking it more will sharpen the curve. If it 'jacks' too much, simply pull forward a bit (a couple of feet, usually). Another key point: leave room for the front of you vehicle to swing out to both sides. Avoid being too close to anything. My wife, Debbie, has trouble seeing through the mirror and making adjustments the wrong direction. (We have decided that some people's brains don't handle the reversing option very well.) Since you have managed already once, you should get better very quickly.

[WildWG]

Of course, unlike with my old pop-up tent trailer, theM must be backed up using mirrors. I suppose one can hang their head out the window instead. In any case, acting on the advice of a friend, I find that if you must be turning your TM at the same time you are backing it up, it is much, much easier to place your rig so that the inside of your turn is on the driver's side of your rig.
By lineing up the TM with the pavement edge or some othe reference point behind on the driver's side, I have very little trouble backing up and making small steering corrections by using my mirrors.

WWG

I have convinced myself that some people can think in 3D, myself, and some people can not, DW.

After having gotten out of the TV and looked over the sight, as I am backing up I can mentally visualize all obstacles and where the TM is.

When backing the TV up to the TM, I first back up to within 6 inches and then get out and look. Then I can back up in one more shot for perfect alignment.

My neighbors are impressed. They always struggled when backing the TV up to the trailer.

My point is, if the teacher (dad) is good at 3D, and the students (DW or DD) have a brain that does not do 3D well, then have a little extra patience and try to find what works for them.

Is it necessary to chock both wheels. Thanks. Bill

On a near level site I wouldn't feel the need for chocking both wheels, but if there's much slope it might be a good idea.