Latch hook holes worn out?

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by Larryjb

Rick, does it look like the lift arm bolt holes have been torn out? Those bolts seem to line up with the bottom edge of the lift arm. He may need to fabricate a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate and bolt it to the lift arm.

Replacing a lift arm could be a real pain, but not impossible.

In comparison with my own 2619, there's definitely something different and WRONG in the pictures of the bolt holes.

On the bar (picture #3 of 3), the bottom hole was unused, and the top hole seems to have been unused as well. And, on picture #2 of 3, scarring from the bolts (on the hook's "mounting plate" seems awfully close together. Especially the bottom slot, where the screw was jammed all the way to the top. It looks like nmaier' mounting plate was attached using screw holes #2 and #3 (in the lift arm).

Less distance between those bolts makes them more prone to getting twisted, loosened, or slid around. On my own 2619, the hook mounting is attached to the bottom-most hole of the lift arm. The top hole is not used and the second highest hole is used for the upper slot of the hock mounting block. So - from the bottom, my "original" 2619 mounting is using screw holes #1 and #3. I have a significantly longer distance between my two screws than he did. On my 2619, even the top screw hole #4 is completely clear and visible behind the upper slot. For even more resistance against twist, I could theoretically be using slots #1 and #4, with even better resistance against twist and loosening forces.

(an aside, part of my own text and not a quote):
In image #3 of 3, there seems to be something partly blocking most the of #2 hole (from the bottom), from behind. I can't tell what is in there, but his TM was connected through that hole.

Curiouser and curiouser- is this mostly the fault of the factory, in 2005?

[rickst29]

In putting it back together, with new screws and bolts and lockwashers - nmaiers should use holes #1 and #3, not adjacent holes #2 and #3.

[nmaiers]

...without it, I'd have a broken trailer. And living in Sonoma, there aren't any dealers nearby (a drive to Ontario sounds like an awful idea right now).

So to be clear, I should use hole 1 (bottom most) and hole 3 (not quite the top)? Or should I use 1 and 4?

I'm going to do that before I get to adjust the torsion bars. I have a short drive (30 minutes, no freeway) to the Petaluma KOA tomorrow after work. I intend on figuring out the torsion bars after I return. I'll be okay with that plan, yes? Or would I be better off using the old hardware till I can get the torsion bars adjusted? To Bill's earlier point, the hook is wearing thin in it's current positioning...

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by nmaiers

...without it, I'd have a broken trailer. And living in Sonoma, there aren't any dealers nearby (a drive to Ontario sounds like an awful idea right now).

So to be clear, I should use hole 1 (bottom most) and hole 3 (not quite the top)? Or should I use 1 and 4?

#1 and #3 would be the best choice, unless you can't push the shell down and into the hook (with the bolt through the #1 hole at the very top of the lower slot). In that case, use #2 and #4.

Santa Rosa Home Depot claims to have 4 of the needed wrenches in stock, and Windsor claims to have 3 of them: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-...8THW/203541507.

I pretty strongly recommend that you check the resting height for the lowered (and unclamped) front shell, right when you open it up to pack. Use the leveler jacks and some leveling blocks, if your driveway and street are too extreme for the levelers alone. Adjust torsion bar tension right then, before driving down the road with (possibly) "badly unbalanced" or (possibly) "too much" lifting pressure on the lift-bar hooks (any of the four), plus the 4 safety hooks at the corners. Just start packing 1/2 hour earlier, plus shopping time.

I'm going to do that before I get to adjust the torsion bars. I have a short drive (30 minutes, no freeway) to the Petaluma KOA tomorrow after work. I intend on figuring out the torsion bars after I return. I'll be okay with that plan, yes? Or would I be better off using the old hardware till I can get the torsion bars adjusted? To Bill's earlier point, the hook is wearing thin in it's current positioning...[/QUOTE]

Yeah, that's a worry. Excess upward pressure is the FIRST thing to check and fix, before depending on the worn hook and weak corner clips to hold it all down. If you can push the shell down better, you might be able to push it into a better part of the hook.

[nmaiers]

The Ace hardware had the 1 1/8 wrench, no pipe needed. I feel like I made the right adjustments as the shell is now about 5 inches above the rear shell and it's easier to lift. I tried to adjust the rear shell though I didn't notice much of a difference. I definitely feel more comfortable adjusting them going forward...

...and I bought the hardware, reattached using holes 1 and 3. We'll see how it goes. Thank you mucho for your advice. It's much appreciated.

[rickst29]

I can't tell (from the picture) where the upper clip rests in the "hook", but I assume you adjusted the height to get it into a satisfactory location.

On my own 2619, the rear shell adjustments don't seem to make a lot of difference either. The same "tuning" concepts apply for the rear: With the trailer decently leveled, and the rear shell is unhooked on both sides - the front corners should rise evenly and only about 5 inches upwards into the front shell, and the rear corners should rise about 1" above the bumper/storage compartment cover.

It's always easier for me to lift the rear. Do you use the "lower/raise the tongue jack" tricks for opening and closing?

Before leveling the trailer with jacks: When opening the front shell, slightly lower the front hitch jack, so that the front shell wants to "fall forwards" and assist you. Clamp the shell. At this time, lower the REAR "leveling" jacks, to that they are just barely touching the ground (or even resting in air an inch above the ground, depending on how much extra height you made at the front with the hitch jack).

Then raise the front hitch jack a little bit past level -- putting a bit too much pressure on the properly-lowered rear leveling jacks, but only for a moment. With the trailer tilted slightly upwards from rear to front, raise the rear shell. The slight tilt again provides a bit of assistance, encouraging the rear shell to open up and "fall backwards". Clamp the rear shell in place. But before lowering the front jack to "level", screw down the front leveling jacks to be just a bit above ground level.

Then lower the trailer hitch jack, putting weight back on the front "leveler jacks" and TM tires. Open the TM door, put your bubble level in the middle of the floor, and make your final "leveling jack" adjustments.
- - - -
With these tricks, I get a lift assist with both shells, and I never have to push the "leveler" jacks into the ground with brute force, I only have to lower them in free air, and then maybe unwind a half turn (or full turn) for final leveling.

[rickst29]

They're super strong, but they will rust over time. Where I live (with really low summertime humidity) they'd last 6-10 years before deserving replacement again. Depending on how close you are to the ocean, you might replace them a bit sooner than that.

[nmaiers]

...I'll try them. I never really struggle with lifting the shells, but the leveling jacks sometimes require some muscle.

Funny story on the bolts- I started with the basic 20 cent bolts, and one of them broke when I was tightening it - admittedly I was trying to tighten it good, but clearly not up for the job. So I went back to the Ace and splurged for the 60 cent bolts. (If only every trailer repair was this inexpensive). I'll watch for rust.