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Old 04-08-2004, 09:19 AM   #11
Bruce
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Default Re:Door seal (bottom of the door)

Civil War Buff,
We had the same problem with out bottom door seal and it is not related to any leveling issue. I solved it, for now anyway, by inserting a piece of self adhesive foam weatherstripping, about 3/4X3/4in size and the width of the door under the existing seal. The new seal pushes out the existing seal so it makes contact with the floor and yet is squishable enough to not cause the door seal to hang up on the floor when closing down the trailer.
With this method you still have the tough vinly seal in place only now it bulges out a little more. If you were to replace the existing seal with a foam seal I think it would get torn up in short order.

Bruce
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Old 04-16-2004, 07:54 PM   #12
Robin
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Default Re:Door seal (bottom of the door)

Re: the jacks.

Clayton the mechanic at the Dinuba TM Dealer in California told me today that the jacks are meant to be used to level the trailer, not just stabilize it. He said that each jack is strong enough to hold 4000 lbs. He also said that even if you're on a steep incline and the jacks are all at completely different heights, all is fine, there is no chance that the frame will bend. He told me that when you have to change a tire, you are supposed to jack that entire side of the TM up using the four jacks.

Go know.
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Old 04-17-2004, 10:01 PM   #13
jniles
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Default Re:Door seal (bottom of the door)

Robin the salesman is telling you the truth. The jacks on current TMs are in fact leveling jacks and frames of the current TM will not twist in normal leveling. The current manual describes two ways to level with the primary method being to use the jacks to level. It just happens to be easier to use the secondary way if you can level from side to side before you unhitch then use the tongue jack to level front to rear. Then the jacks are only needed to stabilize the unit since it is already level. Any way you level as long as it is level will help things to line up.
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:44 PM   #14
stash77
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I had the same problem with the door seal, so for the past month or so developed a seal. It works ok, but may change effectiveness next time I set-up. I got so sick of the issue so I broke down and called TM. Ed Lytle sent me photo's of what they use. Simple, straight forward and effective. Best part is it's FACTORY and it only cost $7.00 plus shipping. The item is called, Brush seal, and it's exactly what it sounds like it is; a brush bent at 90 degrees and configured to accomodate the opening. If you want to see the photo's, you can contact TM and request a set yourself or, you can email me. I will be more than happy to share them at: [email protected]
Happy Camping
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Old 04-15-2009, 02:06 PM   #15
ShrimpBurrito
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stash77 forwarded the pics to me, and said he had no problem with me posting them, so here is what he is talking about. It is for the side of the door.

In addition to Bill's suggestion above, "Door Bottom Sweeps" are also at McMaster. Enter 2841 in the search box to see their options. I like the brush bottom seal the best, as the door has to sweep over a fair amount of floor when folding the TM. They are roughly $10 + shipping.

Dave
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Old 04-15-2009, 02:39 PM   #16
PopBeavers
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So I can quit using my dirty socks to seal off the draft now?
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