Water Heater Woes

[Bill]

Just a thought re the use of penetrating oil. Once you get the anode out, be VERY CAREFUL not to allow any oil to get into the hot water tank. Clean the threads well, so that no oil clings to them when you screw in the new (or old) anode rod. Oil in general tastes terrible and smells terrible, and the residue from a drop or two can last forever. Granted, you might not plan to drink much water from the hot faucet, but a little oil will ensure that you don't!

Bill

I received a blow-out plug as part of the goodies package from the dealer.
Has anyone used a blow-out plug to remove water from the plumbing lines?
Does this also successfully remove all water from the water heater?
I assume you open the four drains outside under the TM and then apply the compressed air? Help!

Midwest Dave
2006-2720 / Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L tow pkg
protigy brake controller / WDH

[wbmiller3]

Mike sayeth: If you wrapped the threads with teflon tape, then you have also electrically insulated the anode from the hot water tank. It will not work as a sacrificial anode since you have broken the electrical circuit: Anode to Water Ions to Hot Water Tank Shell.

That does make sense, but when I replaced my original rod I used Teflon tape and when I pulled the 2nd one out, it was eaten up. Perhaps the threads cut through the tape enough to give you a connection? I will have to think about this though when I replace it again. Maybe I will cut some slashes in the tape to make sure I get a connection.

[Speckul8r]

I'd have the same guess as wb3. It came out with the remnants of tape on it so I put it back in with tape on it.

[commodor47]

Originally Posted by wbmiller3

. . . Perhaps the threads cut through the tape enough to give you a connection? I will have to think about this though when I replace it again. Maybe I will cut some slashes in the tape to make sure I get a connection.

When replacing (for the first time) the anode on our hot water heater, I noticed nylon tape on the exposed threads. I believe you are correct, the threading process does cut the tape along the high points of the thread just enough to complete the circuit. When replacing the anode, I wrapped the outer half of the threads (from the exposed end) and left some (inner) threads uncoated. That way I only have to work half as hard to replace the anode . . . the next time . . . and there should be a fairly good circuit.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by MidwestDave

Has anyone used a blow-out plug to remove water from the plumbing lines? Does this also successfully remove all water from the water heater? I assume you open the four drains outside under the TM and then apply the compressed air?

Dave -

You're making this way too difficult. Just open the four valves under the trailer, and open the faucets inside the trailer. Everything will gravity drain. The only water left will be in the outdoor shower head, which you should unscrew (by hand) and shake out. Store the shower head inside the TM so it doesn't get lost. That's it - just as it is outlined in the Owner's Manual.

Don't use a blowout plug, don't use compressed air, don't use tools, don't use a lot of time, don't skin your knuckles - TM has made this particular job trivially easy for us!

Bill

Well said Bill. I will heed your advice! Sure beats hauling a compressor 25 miles to do a blow out!

Midwest Dave
Northwestern Illinois