SW6DE Hot Water Heater Operation

[TM Pilot]

Scrubjaysnest,

Did you ever do this mod?

Bruce

[Padgett]

Is on my to-do list but not very high. Hard part seems to be getting to the switch wiring. Can you reach from under the sink ?

[Bill]

Is this the mod you all are talking about?

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...php?albumid=74

Or are you thinking about a simple switch and pilot light on the kitchen apron inside? While this is better than nothing, the problem with a warning light is that you have only a very few seconds to react if you find that power is on before you fill the water heater. The relay-activated approach takes care of that. A bigger project, I'll admit, but it works wonderfully well.

Bill

[Bailey'sMom]

Easiest fix of all is to disconnect the electric connection and only use propane to heat.

[funpilot]

Originally Posted by Bailey'sMom

Easiest fix of all is to disconnect the electric connection and only use propane to heat.

Sounds like my Truma ....

[TM Pilot]

Bill,

Thanks for that link. I was looking for that but couldn't find it. For now, I think that mod may be overkill for me. But I'll read it more closely and think about it and then may reconsider.

For now, I don't mind using the electric water heater switch outside. I just wanted to install a mod where there is a light inside the TM next to the water heater gas switch so as to better remind me that the electric element is turned on when I'm closing up the TM so that I don't forget to turn it off.

Anybody install just a light? Details...

Bruce

[TM Pilot]

Thinking of adding a red LED 120V light somewhere on this 120V black wire between the hi-limit/thermostat reset switch and the electric element (see picture).

Any thoughts/suggestions?

[Bill]

I don't think that's quite what you want. It puts the light directly across the heating element, so it will go on and off as the thermostat turns the heating element on and off. The on-and-off operation of the light may drive you crazy.

Instead, I think you want the light connected from the cold side of the switch (right side in the diagram) to neutral. That way it will be ON whenever shore power is plugged in AND the switch is in the ON position.

By the way, I discovered the hard way that you want to get a reasonably dim light. Otherwise, it will be very bright at night, and keep you awake. And of course, while there is nothing wrong with using an LED, there is no particular reason to use one, since it will be operating only when shore power is available. On mine, I use a small 120-VAC neon light such as Catalog #: 2720712 from Radio Shack. Red is a good color choice, since its primary function is a warning light, and it is visible over a wide angle.

Bill

[TM Pilot]

Great tip, Bill. Yes, installing the light between the switch and the hi-limit & thermostat switches is where is needs to be (see updated picture). I need the light on whenever the electric element switch is on.

Getting to that section of wire may be a challenge. I can either pull the switch or remove the black plastic cover over the hi-limit/thermostat switches. The switch may break if I try to remove it and it's a tight area to work in. Probably easier to remove the thermostat cover. Then the challenge will be to find a way to run the wire from the thermostat to inside the TM.

Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks.

Bruce

[TM Pilot]

With the electric element switch turn on, the hot wire from the switch attaches to the lower right pole on the 120VAC hi-limit/T'Stat. It's a 14 gauge wire. There isn't much extra length to work with, but with some patience and creativity one can use a quick splice connector. The new wire leading to the light can easily enter the TM at the lower left corner of the hi-limit/T'stat area without drilling any holes (see picture).

I ordered that Radio Shack red neon lamp catalog #: 2720712 ($2.50 eBay!). Will probably use a single gang junction box with cover plate and mount next to water heater gas switch on the panel in front of sink. I'll update when complete.