Corner Latch Pulling Out

davlin:
That explains every thing right there. You have been a member since 2011 but not a site sponsor which would have brought up basically a lot of the repairs if you had put in that latch repair search. Please don't poo poo that tie down over the shell for emergency use if a latch does come out on the road. I carry one just for that purpose.

Originally Posted by thewayneo

I sense your frustration with the "do a search" answer. http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...t=latch+repair

Post number 3 from Reldma talks about cutting a new piece of aluminum, attaching it over the old holes, and attaching the latch to it. The best cure I could find!

thewayneo:
You can sense his frustration with the "do a search answer" but look at it from my prospective. He has a join date of July 2011 but is not a site sponsor along with this being his second TM. The search would have brought up different fixes that have been done by people here. Another site sponsor brought up his getting a membership but my idea was to nudge him a little by not giving out all the information that people pay for by having a paid membership to the site. It's nice to be helpful but just where is the cut-off point?

[Bill]

Our member harveyrv used to recommend well nuts for a lot things. Might they work here?

As cycleguy suggested, though, you most likely have the latches set too tight. If they continue to be too tight, the problem will happen again.

Bill

[davlin]

All, thanks especially to Wayne (thewayneo) for reminding me to renew my sponsorship. Sorry I let it lapse; must have missed the reminder. I now understand what "site sponsor" on the tag line means.

Even with the additional information available, it still looks like installing a plate (scab patch) over the damaged area is the way to go. When I get around to actually doing the repair, I'll document with pictures.

Dave

[countrygirl]

Countrygirl, should have included the year of my 3124KS. It's a 2007. After the first pull out of this cleat, I was able to carefully probe into the original holes (I didn't have the problem mentioned in forum threads about multiple drill holes) and determined that there is NOTHING behind the aluminum skin but styrofoam insulation. No wood, no metal, just styrofoam. That means that all the travel force working on that cleat is absorbed by the very thin outer skin. Once this area has been damaged by the cleat pulling loose, I don't think any type/amount of glue and different screws is going to work. Since this problem seems common to TMs, I'm hoping someone out there has come up with a more durable fix. I also sent the original problem to Trailmanor. No response yet.

YIKES that is scarey!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cause I also own a 2007 3124 KS and have not thought that would happen with my year Trailmanor. I saw a thread last night that I will try to relocate for you. Hope to BRB.

[countrygirl]

Took longer then I thought it would....but I found it.

I think this post might help...especially look at post number 7.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=12689

[davlin]

Thank you, countrygirl! Retiredgoat got it right. That's exactly the fix I'm going to apply to my 3124. As I posted previously, I'm going to let my son the helicopter repairer help me with this when he gets stationed here this summer. He says they put "scab patches" over bullet holes in helicopters all the time. There has been mention in this thread about "rotted wood" behind the skin where the latch cleat goes. As I mentioned previously, on my TM, and at least on this cleat, there is no wood, rotted or otherwise, behind the outer skin. It's (torn) outer skin, styrofoam, and inner skin.