Lighting Norcold Refrigerator - Page 2

Casey Freswick · 10-20-2016, 08:39 AM

On Monday fixed my propane fridge. It worked ofter I pulled the fridge out, pinched the wires and adjusted the thermocoupler. I am pretty sure it was the wires for me. Kept the fridge on to test it and there was ice in the freezer compartment after about 5 hours. Yours sounds like something different. it seems to me, and I am no expert, that if the burner runs well as long as you press the bypass switch next to the starter, but shuts off when you release it, it is not a problem with the burner or propane pressure. I want to thank those who directed through earlier post to the switch problem. That certainly seemed to work for me.

Casey Freswick · 10-20-2016, 08:42 AM

Where did you get the lit kit for the 15 inch tires? What make and model?

fourteener · 10-20-2016, 06:58 PM

Casey,

First, Take a moment to read my first post, as I've already jumped through all the hoops related to the loose wires. I think my next best bet is to try 1) replacing the burner/orifice, and 2) think about replacing the regulator. Once I get it lit, it stays lit with no problems, in fact I've never had it go out. It is just extra stubborn to light. So, I'm hoping one of the guys from the earlier post will tell me where they got their replacement burner/orifice.

Secondly, and a bit off topic, is the lift kit. Try post #61 & #65 at the following link:
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=6245
The forum is chucked full of info related to this mod. The lift itself is nothing fancy, just a simple 2X2" or 2.5X2.5" heavy wall steel tube or solid aluminum block. The hardest thing to locate is the longer fine thread grade-8 bolts. I have it all outlined in that thread. Check it out, and let me know if you have any other questions. I think putting on 15" rims and tires is one of the best mods I've done. My wife would disagree saying that it was either the portable solar or the outdoor speakers. But we agree to disagree.

Hope this helps,
Mitch

tentcamper · 10-21-2016, 09:04 AM

If you are thinking about replacing the burner orifice? I would also clean the burner. I use a steel brush and then blow out the burner.

Also, not sure it you tried it, but most of the time you can soak the orifice in denatured alcohol for about 1/2 hour and after it is dry blow it out in the opposite direction of the gas flow. You should be able to see light through it. If memory serves me correctly its not a round hole, it's a rectangle shape. Do not try to use anything to poke it out, or you will enlarge the hole.

Back when I did it, I did find with a google search the procedure for pulling out the assembly and cleaning, while the unit is in the camper. I would also look for the right procedure to adjust the sparker position while I had the burner and orifice out.

fourteener · 10-21-2016, 10:56 AM

Please read my initial post, as I've already done that (plus some), and am now at the point to attempt replacing some key parts. I apologize, but that doesn't even make sense. Why would you clean the burner if you are replacing it new, unless it comes packed in grease? Again, I've already disassembled tightening all wires and cleaned the thermocouple, spark lighter, and the burner/orific.

flipflop · 12-23-2016, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fourteener

Please read my initial post, as I've already done that (plus some), and am now at the point to attempt replacing some key parts. I apologize, but that doesn't even make sense. Why would you clean the burner if you are replacing it new, unless it comes packed in grease? Again, I've already disassembled tightening all wires and cleaned the thermocouple, spark lighter, and the burner/orific.

Well, all I can tell you is I tried the trick recommended by gonzo628 here http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...t=17211&page=2

Lighting one burner on the stove got the fridge to ignite with a few piezo sparks. Tried fruitlessly for 30 minutes prior to lighting the stove.

The fridge was working fine a few hours before on LP, switched it to AC while running the generator, switched it back to LP and it would not ignite.

fourteener · 12-30-2016, 09:24 AM

Yeah, I've tried all of that. Primed the system by lighting both the stove (even all 3 burners) and the water heater (warning: make sure the water tank is full), and still can't get it to light.

Please keep in mind, that once I get it lit, I have no problem keeping it lit. It is just very stubborn to light, usually taking me 20-70 minutes to get it lit. Please refer to my first post in this thread.

I'm planning to wait till spring and replacing the burner assembly. Currently I suspect it is a bad fuel/air mixture, that may be remedied with a new burner? All I can say is it is extremely frustrating! I'll report back on my findings come spring!

**Bill** · 12-30-2016, 01:24 PM

Fourteener -

Not meaning to flog a dead horse, but since you are at high altitude, it could be starved for air, as you have suggested. You've said you can see the flame. If it is a nice blue, the mixture is good. The flame should burn quietly - if it roars, that means too much air (unlikely for you). If it is starved for air, it will be yellow. Nuff said.

Assuming you have a nice blue flame, I'm not sure that a new burner should be the first thing you try. I'm leaning more toward low gas pressure, which would make a small flame, which would be hard to light. Apparently the stove is not particularly sensitive to gas pressure, so a nice blue flame in the stove doesn't tell you much about pressure.

A service shop can make the pressure test with a manometer. It should be a quick and cheap test. And if the pressure is low, a new regulator isn't wildly expensive.

Good luck, and keep us posted

Bill

[I hesitate to recommend the scientific approach, but how about giving the regulator body a couple solid raps with a wrench or hammer while gas is flowing? There is a small possibility that the diaphragm or needle is stuck. Also, I imagine you can't smell any gas around the regulator, or you would have mentioned it ...]

fourteener · 05-29-2017, 09:52 PM

I final figured out my refrigerator, after multiple attempts over the past 4 yrs. I wanted to take a moment to share with you what I found.

Disclaimer: This is not the problem that most have with the refrigerator not staying lit due to the light guage wire with the loose connector (aka the needle not staying in the green).

Model: Norcold N300.3rh

Symptom: The refrigerator took forever to light, anywhere from approx. 3-5 min to get gas to the burner, and then 30-75 min. of hitting the ignitor button to get it to light. I even attempted to light it manually (with a BBQ lighter) both through the little trap door and by removing the burner shield. This never worked, but what I notice is that sometimes immediately after attempting to light it manually, it would then light from inside. Once lit, I have had no problem with it staying lit, and once lit it works really good. I haven’t even had any issues at high altitude (as we camp over 10,000 ft. pretty often). Over the last 2-yrs I would say it has been getting more difficult to light with each passing trip.

Fixes / Attempts:

First Attempt: I blew out the burner with an air compressor, and slid the refrigerator out (from inside) to ensure that all of the wires were tight (knowing that this wasn’t my issue). I even asked my wife to push the ignitor to ensure I was getting a spark. But I still had the same issue.

Second Attempt: I took out the burner, the thermocouple, and Piezo ignitor, and cleaned all 3 to see if I could find a problem. Everything looked OK, and seemed be working fine. But I still had the same issue.

Third Attempt: This year I decided to replace the burner (even though I didn’t think this was the issue). I ordered the new Burner Orifice part# 621953 from Amazon for $38. Replaced it, but still had the same issues. I was so aggravated I asked my daughter to come out and push the ignitor for me, and it looked fine. Scratching my head, when my DW came out and started helping. She pushed the ignitor, and we had a good spark. After about 15 min of attempting, we tried again. Then I jammed my head in there to get a closer view (not recommended around flammable gases). Here’s what I noticed…. Piezo ignitor worked fine when we pushed it, but as soon as we introduced an environment of gas (propane),,,,,No Spark! I can’t explain this, but my guess is that it was simply getting weak, and couldn’t produce a spark in the presence of gas.

Fourth Attempt: I ordered a Piezo Ignitor (little push button) part# 61645622 from Amazon $19, and an Electrode with wire (spark sending wire and sparker) part# 619153 from eBay for $17. Replaced, and I’ve tested it 6 times and it lights on the first click everytime.

I’ve had so many issues with this refrigerator that I am reluctant to declare victory until we’ve accomplished a couple camping outing, but after a few very frustrating years and $74, I think I found the problem. Can’t believe it was something as simple as the Ignitor.

Hope this saves everyone a few of you headaches!