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Old 11-04-2008, 12:24 PM   #11
Wavery
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Originally Posted by B_and_D View Post
What do you use to heat/shrink the plastic?
The heat-shrink can be heated with a heat gun or a simple lighter. Just heat it until it shrinks around the wire (you will see the sealer ooze out) then stop. Over-heating may cause any heat-shrink to become brittle and crack.

The #1 culprit in any wiring connection is corrosion. The heat-shrink on these connectors have a low temp solder that seals the connection completely and does not allow any moisture or air to get to the connection. The second culprit with other connections is vibration. These connectors work well in securing the insulation to the wire to eliminate vibration.

As stated by PopBeavers, soldering and heat-shrink is probably the best way to achieve a proper wire splice. Any crimp connection should be done properly and traditional crimp connectors are not my 1st choice, especially in outdoor applications. They are subject to corrosion and vibration. However, these particular "heat-shrink" crimp connectors make a very adequate seal and I have used them in marine applications for 15 years (including a complete re-wire on a, very complicated, 45' yacht) and have never had an issue.

BTW........these heat-shrink connectors are also available for wire end terminals. I wouldn't use anything else for wire 10G or smaller. Anything larger than 10g should definitely be soldered.
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:11 AM   #12
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Sorry to say I have tried all of the suggestions and still have the intermittent flashing NC issue. I traced the wires and although I did find one area where the wired was partially cut as it went through a hole in the frame just prior to entering the back of the wheel assembly, fixing that did not get rid of the flashing NC. My next option is to try a new Prodigy controller to see if that was the issue.

There was one good side benefit - when I removed the brake drum to check the wiring inside, I found that one of my brake shoes was cracked along the length of the shoe, so I found that before it could become an issue.

Thanks again to all for your excellent suggestions.
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:31 AM   #13
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Tracey -

A cracked brake shoe isn't necessarily a defect. I came to the same conclusion as you when I saw a crack on my shoes, and called Dexter. They said that small cracks are actually a normal part of wear.

Check out this thread:
Brake shoes cracked! Replace?

Dave
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:03 AM   #14
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Senor Burrito - Thanks for the quick response. The cracks do look like the one's in the Dexter pdf you cited in your earlier post, so I'll cross that off my list of things to fix.
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Old 11-18-2008, 11:00 AM   #15
Wavery
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Tracey -

A cracked brake shoe isn't necessarily a defect. I came to the same conclusion as you when I saw a crack on my shoes, and called Dexter. They said that small cracks are actually a normal part of wear.

Check out this thread:
Brake shoes cracked! Replace?

Dave
This is only true on bonded lining (as in your pic). If your lining is rivited to the shoe they may need to be replaced.
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Old 11-18-2008, 11:33 AM   #16
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This is only true on bonded lining (as in your pic). If your lining is rivited to the shoe they may need to be replaced.
The OEM Dexter shoes are bonded.

Dave
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Old 11-18-2008, 02:32 PM   #17
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The OEM Dexter shoes are bonded.

Dave
I know........I just stated that in case someone has riveted replacement shoes on their trailer.
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