Fixed Roof Seal Gap Problem.......

[Denny_A]

Recall(?) that I had a gap 'tween the upper/lower shell outside seal, door side - about 1/2 inch or so, narrowing to none about 2/3 of the way toward the center.

There was a lot of discussion regarding how to fix. Here's how I did the deed.

After much study, it seemed that lowering the aft end of the upper shell was, indeed the way to go. Using a cinder block and bottle-jack, I supported the torsion bar from below. Using a 2x2 (hardwood), I placed the upper end under, and in contact with, the foot-stirrup of the lift arm, and supported the lower end with my auto's scissor-jack. Loosened all 4 bolts, lowered the 2x2 about 1/4 inch (a tie wrap kept it stable), wrapped cloth around the lower part of the stirrup, and whacked the livin' ... ummm, until the lift arm moved downward and seated on th 2x2. (Actually there was a bit more to it than that, but you get the drift). The stirrup held up just fine, as did the finish.

Repeated for another 1/8 inch, or so. Then, having stowed the lower door (it was in the way), I tried to position the door to re-engage the forward clip. Wouldn't cooperate. Turns out the top moves downward, but the door doesn't (duh!). Theres a little screw on top of the pivoting segment which went clunk against the lower edge of the shell. Got out my trusty rattail file and trimmed some excess overhanging aluminium. Close but no cigar.

So - had to raise the roof 1/8" to gain clearance. Clamped the bolts, etc. The seal gap was now much better, but not good enough. What to do? Right, raise the lower shell to remove the remaining gap. Using the same setup, sans bottle jack under the torsion rod, I jacked up the forward arm of the lower shell until the torsion rod was pulled up and wedged against the upper part of the hole thru which it extends. Pounded the bar down to the lower extreme and repeated once more. Perfect! Snug the bolts, perform an function check, sign it off, and get my quality assurance boss (Mz. Teddy) to ok it!

A side benefit of this exercise was that both door-side latches engage and fit better than they had before. Also the annoying gap I had between the upper shell and the forward stowable segment (containing the door latch reciever) is gone (almost).

Moral of the story? There are some really helpful peeps on this forum, and I thank you all for your advice/ideas.

Denny_A ('n Teddy_A the QA)

Now, could we get a video of that?

All kidding aside, I'm glad you found the resolution to your problem and it will help all of us in the future. This is really a cool site.

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DenTed,
I read and reread your message twice and still don't understand exactly what you did. Failing to be able to view a videotape - like the one that Chris suggested you make - I guess that the only way for me to understand your repair procedure is to take my printed copy out to my TM and try to visualize what you did while examining the various parts of the lift mechanism.

Thanks for this valuable contribution to our storehouse of repair procedures - since gaps between the shells seem to be a common occurrence in many TMs. I've always been impressed with your ingenuity, DenTed, and this is another feather in your cap! Maybe after finally getting around to that needed repair on my holddown latches, I'll see if I can use your repair method to fix any gap between the shells of my TM.

[Denny_A]

??? ???
DenTed,
I read and reread your message twice and still don't understand exactly what you did. Failing to be able to view a videotape - like the one that Chris suggested you make - I guess that the only way for me to understand your repair procedure is to take my printed copy out to my TM and try to visualize what you did while examining the various parts of the lift mechanism.
___________snip____________

Larry,

You may not have seen the thread named Gap 'Tween Fwd Shell Seal/Aft Roof. I originated it with a question - how do I adjust the roof?

I started this "fixed it" thread so the fix wasn't buried at the end of that thread. Checking thru the many suggestions offered therein may be of assistance.

Here's an attempt to define terms and aid orientation.

A. What done to what components:

White lift arm which supports the doorside, aft corner of the forward shell. Shortened length, causing gap 'tween fluffy seal and aft shell to decrease.

White lift arm which supports the doorside, forward corner of the aft shell. Increased length, causing gap 'tween fluffy seal and aft shell to decrease. I.e; lower shell moved UP toward the fluffy seal

B. Actions accomplished.

Forward/Aft Shell arms: 4 bolts secure arm to torsion bar. Release all 4 bolts so that lift arm can be slid up or down on torsion bar. Done whilst both shells are open. Total adjustment - forward shell arm down 1/4" and a aft shell arm up 1/4". Total RELATIVE motion 1/2";. Movement needed to remove gap = 1/2".

C. Tools Used

Cinder block and bottle jack to support torsion bar.
Scissor jack to support, and allow fine vertical adjustments
2x2 (or 2x4) of hardwood.
Hardplasic headed mallet and shop rag.

D. Method

There is a foot stirrup on each lift arm. When the arm is upright, the rungs are horizontal. I cut a 2x2 to fit under the edge of the lower rung, and supported the bottom of the 2x2 on the scissor jack. Used tie wrap around the 2x2 and the lift arm so that it wouldn't wander. All the bolts were loose, and the torsion bar was prevented from deflecting downward. I lowered the scissor jack 1/4", so that the 2x2 was gapped that amount under the rung. I wrapped the shop rag around the rung and pounded until the gap was closed. Climbed a ladder (to ensure it wasn't an illusion) and noted appropriate results at the seal. It WORKED!

The other arm, being an extension, was easier. Raising the lift arm causes the torsion bar to raise until it bumps against the top of the hole thru which it protrudes. I draped the shoprag over the torsionbar. Used a VERY large adjustable wrench (adjusted to snugly fit around the rag/torsion bar) and pounded on the other end to force the rod down to the bottom of the hole, and repeated. BTW - I can get away with this because I was once a professional metalsmith; from the get-a-bigger-hammer discipline. ;D

There it is; just as foggy as before. In a nutshell.

Denny_A