Suggestions needed for weight distributor

[Serenity]

Originally Posted by Wavery

I think that your real question may be, "How much will a WDH level out the tow vehicle?"

The weight distribution hitch takes some of the tung weight and transfers it to the front wheels of the tow vehicle. It also transfers some weight to the trailer axle. That helps level out the weight between the 3-axles and (hopefully) levels the entire set-up.

I tow our 2009 2720SL with a Honda Ridgeline. I had the same issue with the rear of the Ridgeline squatting. The Anderson WDH leveled everything out and I feel more comfortable now.

Before pic with squat. after pic of level trailer, the Ridgeline is level also but I can't find the pic. 3rd pic is the Anderson WDH.

Yeah, the distance between our wheels and wheel well is a lot less than yours. I think that is partly why the dealership was concerned. My husband works for Uhaul and he has said all along that we will need a weight distributor to make it work and he was right. Now we just have to find one that works with the swing hitch I guess. I am thinking that one with chains instead of bars is probably better but my husband looked at your last picture and he said that right where you have your chains hooked up to the TM, that there is safety chains on our Trailmanor that are in the way of where we would need to hook them up at.

[Serenity]

We bought a Reese Pro with sway and it doesn't work with the swing hitch. Does anyone have any suggestions on what might work instead? We are getting a 3124KB and our TV is an Infiniti QX60, if that helps.

[wbmiller3]

Since you have been told that you are not supposed to use a WDH with your tow vehicle, is picking and choosing hitches what you should be focusing on?

First I would resolve whether or not you can even use one. If you mess up your tow vehicle to save the cost of having the trailer delivered to your house, that may not be the optimal strategy.

In the long run, that trailer / tow vehicle combo is only going to give you trouble, IMHO. 200 lb margin to the limit is not a good idea (4800 to 5000).

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Serenity

my husband looked at your last picture and he said that right where you have your chains hooked up to the TM, that there is safety chains on our Trailmanor that are in the way of where we would need to hook them up at.

Here are some better pics of our safety chains placement. Yours may be different but if they are, they can be moved. It's just a matter of either drilling the holes elsewhere or having actual chains welded to the frame.

I'm not real happy with the slinky cables that are on my trailer. I plan on removing those things and welding actual chains on our trailer.

[rickst29]

If you can describe 'how' it doesn't fit together, some other people might have more detailed advice for you.

But I will guess that your problem was this Reese specification, the length of the bars being too short to reach past the swing hitch:

• Sway control bracket positioning: 24-1/2" - 27-1/2" back from center of coupler

With my TM, the range of workable bar length values starts at around 28-1/2" (reaching past the swing hitch assembly) and ends at about 32" (the point at which the chain heads/bar receivers would run into the propane tanks).

I have vertical propane tanks, horizontal tanks might have a different value for maximum length. My own 'el cheapo' round bar hitch, with 30" between the midpoint of the round bar "drop" and the middle of the chain attachment loop, fits with about one more inch of free space present between the chain attachment hooks and the propane tanks.

That's a bar length of 31" total, from the tapered end of the bar (with the chain) up to the center of the "vertical" round bar.

Lots of TM owners use Anderson WDH, avoiding the nasty job of cinching up the chains with each trip. But they cost a lot of of money. If you don't need a trunnion bar design (for better ground clearance), and don't need a drop of more than 2", then this one would fit and do the job pretty well: https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...RT/C17052.html

One of the answers, among the "product questions", includes the fact that the bars are 31" long - nearly identical to my own.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Serenity

Is there a specific name for that measurement and/or will it be included somewhere in the product info for a weight distributor?

Fair question, and I don't know a specific name. The springbar length is often given, though not always. I would have done better to say that the dimension that matters is the distance from the hitch ball to the suspension point near the end of the bar, which is maybe an inch less.

I went to etrailer.com and took a quick look at the Reese Pro. E-trailer does not do a real good job of laying out descriptions and specs, but it is a start.

The good news is that the lift bracket position is adjustable. Nominal is 27-1/2" back from center of coupler, but it can be moved forward as much as 3 inches to 24-1/2 inches "to clear objects on the frame". This three inches of adjustability doesn't do you any good? I'm surprised - it is a narrow (front to back) bracket.

It comes with a 2-5/16 inch ball. You will need to change it to a 2" ball - no big deal.

Max tongue weight is 600 pounds. Although not a catastrophe, that is a bit skimpy. A rating of 800 pounds would have been better.

My personal preference - and note that it is MINE, not everyone's - is for hitch bars that lift with a chain. The chain allows for the lift bracket to be moved fore-and-aft a bit (in other words, the chain is not precisely vertical), which might help with your positioning problem. Is that more than the 3 inches on your Reese Pro? I don't know. It also allows easier raise and lower operation. Instructions for this hitch, as well as others of this kind, suggest (but do not require) you to use the trailer's tongue jack to attach and remove the spring bars. It is also easier to fine-tune the amount of lift.

Although the specs are kind of ambiguous, it appears that the available springbar strengths for the Reese Pro are 300, 400, and 500 pounds. I think this refers to the springiness (stiffness) of the spring bar. If too springy, the hitch area (and hence the back of the tow vehicle) will be bouncy, which is uncomfortable. Several our members have reported that 600 pound bars are a bit too light, and 800 pound bars were better. You can find a lot of info and experience by Googling "weight distributing trailer hitch spring bar stiffness".

I note that Curt offers what is called a "short arm hitch". It is beefier than the Reese Pro, maybe too beefy. The specs lift the spring-bar length as 28-3/8", so the attachment point at the end of the spring bar will be maybe 1" less than this. In other words, just about what you Reese Pro offers. But maybe "short arm" is a Search term you can use.

Finally, many of these hitches include a friction sway control. Bad idea to use one. Review the following from our towing expert, Rocky Mtn Ray.

https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ead.php?t=2923 and
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ead.php?t=2922

Bill

[Serenity]

Originally Posted by wbmiller3

Since you have been told that you are not supposed to use a WDH with your tow vehicle, is picking and choosing hitches what you should be focusing on?

First I would resolve whether or not you can even use one. If you mess up your tow vehicle to save the cost of having the trailer delivered to your house, that may not be the optimal strategy.

In the long run, that trailer / tow vehicle combo is only going to give you trouble, IMHO. 200 lb margin to the limit is not a good idea (4800 to 5000).

Well, when we were at the dealership nobody ever said anything about not using one. In fact, they spent nearly three hours trying to help us get it hooked up. It wasn't until we called back after we had gone home, asking it it would be okay just to tow home that a guy that had assisted for like five minutes told us that we shouldn't use one and he just said that all unibody vehicles shouldn't use one.

So I looked into that and found that is only true for some unibody vehicles and that it really depends on what your manual says. So we looked at out manual and it actually gives directions for using it with a weight distribution system. I don't see why the manual would tell you how to use one if it wasn't okay, ya know?

As far as the weight, do you think it will be an issue since it is cutting it so close? The GVRW means with all of the tanks loaded, right? We don't plan on moving it with the tanks loaded (except maybe propane) and we really won't be bringing hardly anything at all with us. Just a few dishes and some camping chairs.

[Wavery]

That Infinity is not the ideal tow vehicle for that TrailManor. You may be OK with a 2720 but you have what you have and are happy with it.

I just think that you may regret using the Infinity over time if you use that as your permanent tow vehicle. You mentioned getting a pick up truck and I think that you would be wise to do so.

It may feel like it tows fine for a long time (as your confidence builds) but the 1st time that you have to panic stop, you may find out why it isn't working out. You can also bet that your maintenance cost for that vehicle may be quite high. It's never a good idea to push the limits on any mechanical devise and it could end up deadly in an automobile.

[rich2468]

Originally Posted by Serenity

Well, when we were at the dealership nobody ever said anything about not using one. In fact, they spent nearly three hours trying to help us get it hooked up. It wasn't until we called back after we had gone home, asking it it would be okay just to tow home that a guy that had assisted for like five minutes told us that we shouldn't use one and he just said that all unibody vehicles shouldn't use one.



So I looked into that and found that is only true for some unibody vehicles and that it really depends on what your manual says. So we looked at out manual and it actually gives directions for using it with a weight distribution system. I don't see why the manual would tell you how to use one if it wasn't okay, ya know?



As far as the weight, do you think it will be an issue since it is cutting it so close? The GVRW means with all of the tanks loaded, right? We don't plan on moving it with the tanks loaded (except maybe propane) and we really won't be bringing hardly anything at all with us. Just a few dishes and some camping chairs.

Hi Serenity,
I tow my 2922KB with a 2020 Toyota Highlander which is roughly the same size as your Infiniti SUV.

One thing I'd like to call out is that Infiniti may say that your QX60 is able to use a weight distribution hitch, but that statement may only be true if using an Infiniti trailer hitch. I would check that the Uhaul hitch you're using utilizes the exact same mounting points as the factory installed one (all of the mount points)and that the Uhaul hitch is (specifically) rated for WDH use.

At the time I purchased my Highlander, Toyota didn't have a factory hitch available for my trim level (Platinum), so I installed a Curt trailer hitch not realizing that Curt didn't approve that specific model for WDH use. Later I found that Curt did have a Highlander trailer hitch which was rated for WDH hitch use. (But Curt's WDH "certified" tow hitch used the exact mounting points on my Highlander)

Upon investigating further, I found that Toyota's factory hitch had several more mounting points than the available aftermarket (Curt and Drawtite) hitches....leading me to remove and replace the original Curt trailer hitch with a factory trailer hitch. The factory hitch bolts onto the vehicle in 7 spots vs. Curt's 4 mount points.

You will be at the very upper tow limit for your vehicle while towing a 3124; please make sure that you're confident that the tow vehicle meets the Infiniti specs for using a Weight Distribution Hitch.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by rich2468

Hi Serenity,
I tow my 2922KB with a 2020 Toyota Highlander which is roughly the same size as your Infiniti SUV.

One thing I'd like to call out is that Infiniti may say that your QX60 is able to use a weight distribution hitch, but that statement may only be true if using an Infiniti trailer hitch. I would check that the Uhaul hitch you're using utilizes the exact same mounting points as the factory installed one (all of the mount points)and that the Uhaul hitch is (specifically) rated for WDH use.

At the time I purchased my Highlander, Toyota didn't have a factory hitch available for my trim level (Platinum), so I installed a Curt trailer hitch not realizing that Curt didn't approve that specific model for WDH use. Later I found that Curt did have a Highlander trailer hitch which was rated for WDH hitch use. (But Curt's WDH "certified" tow hitch used the exact mounting points on my Highlander)

Upon investigating further, I found that Toyota's factory hitch had several more mounting points than the available aftermarket (Curt and Drawtite) hitches....leading me to remove and replace the original Curt trailer hitch with a factory trailer hitch. The factory hitch bolts onto the vehicle in 7 spots vs. Curt's 4 mount points.

You will be at the very upper tow limit for your vehicle while towing a 3124; please make sure that you're confident that the tow vehicle meets the Infiniti specs for using a Weight Distribution Hitch.

Oh man....... I asked about factory tow package for that reason and the transmission cooler as well. I missed that they installed an aftermarket hitch.

Good catch Rich..... I definitely would not put a WDH on an aftermarket hitch. If they lose that trailer hitch on the road, it wouldn't be pretty.

Been there, done that and that was a factory hitch.