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Old 04-21-2012, 04:10 PM   #11
moaboy
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I think Bluegrass makes a solid point. Sounds like you are planning this purchase enough in advance to give you additional options.
I was out camping last week with a friend who has a 32 ft conventional trailer.
Plenty of room, bells and whistles I don't have or even want.
But it is heavy and he also bought a Hensley hitch to increase his control while towing.
So there are trade offs.
I'd expand your search and then see what you think.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:12 AM   #12
Mr. Adventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reyyvin View Post
My wife and I are new to RVing and are considering a TM, probably 2720 or Elkmont 24...
The folding TMs have pretty good winter designs, as RV's go. But I was born in Minnesota, and towing on snow where it's flat is something I avoid. Where it's not, there's the potential for even more adventure than I might enjoy. Instead of a trailer, I'd probably be thinking about a class A or Class C motorhome if winter road trips are necessarily part of the fun. But you're professional drivers with great perspectives on these things.

Gas mileage is always a problem these days. After owning 5 different trailers and a 37 foot motorhome over 30 years, the best RV is the one that's big enough to take you where you need to go, and no bigger.

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What is a realistic tow weight to look for in a TV? I'm thinking 5k, with 6k to be safe (4100 reported wet weight + gear, 550 extra for us, plus ??). How much extra tow rating would be realistic for the mountain driving expected?
There are lots of questions that make these things come up differently for different people. For example, mountain driving presents a durability difference when you live there instead of just visiting once a decade or so.


We travel relatively light, and our TM is between 3900 and 4000#. Different manufacturers specify tow ratings differently. Most tell you to subtract the tow vehicle payload form the Gross Combined Weight Rating, and then tell you in the fine print that you can only tow what's left. Toyota, for one, tends to be able to tow the whole trailer in the rating and still be on the road within the guidelines. In other words, one manufacturer's 6000# could be less than another manufacturer's 5000#.
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