SL model propane tanks

Wavery · 11-02-2010, 07:23 PM

I just pulled off the propane tanks from my '04 2720SL for the 1st time....

WHAT A PITA!!!!!!!!
Whoever designed that propane tank mounting on the SL models should be flogged.......

Has anyone come up with a "quick release" mounting for those things? I can't believe that you guys actually put up with going to get a wrench and unbolting 3 bolts on each tank then bolting them back in every time you want to fill those things......

I took the tanks off to give them a little sprucing up. They were getting a little rusty. While I was at it, I sanded, primed and painted the entire trailer frame.

I would sure like to hear what some of you have done to simplify the removal of those tanks. I guaranty you that I will do something.....I'm not going through that every time I want to fill. It's bad enough that you have to lift the forward roof. It must be a real circus doing this at a gas station

.

ThePair · 11-02-2010, 07:39 PM

The '09 tanks release with one wingnut. So apparently TM already thought about this.

As to mods, perhaps there's something on the boards? I recall a recent post about someone welding a ring to the bottom of a new tank...

Wavery · 11-02-2010, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePair

The '09 tanks release with one wingnut. So apparently TM already thought about this.

As to mods, perhaps there's something on the boards? I recall a recent post about someone welding a ring to the bottom of a new tank...

This gives me an idea.

I could bolt a long piece of 1/2" Channel iron, about 1 or 2" deep, to the bottom of the angle iron mounting bracket that is there (opening facing forward). The back side of the tanks could just slide into the channel iron and I could use either a wing nut or clevis pin on the front. That way, I wouldn't have to lift the roof either. Just remove the front fastener and pull the tank forward, up and out.

I sure would like to see what they did on the 2009 or 2010.

11-03-2010, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harveyrv

I sure would like to see what they did on the 2009 or 2010.

How far is Custom RV in Anaheim from you?

Wavery · 11-03-2010, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PopBeavers

How far is Custom RV in Anaheim from you?

About 40 miles (80 miles round trip)

...........I'm sure that someone will post pics soon.

**Bill** · 11-02-2010, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePair

The '09 tanks release with one wingnut. So apparently TM already thought about this.

FWIW, this wingnut hold-down is also on my 2006 TM.

Bill

Wavery · 11-02-2010, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

FWIW, this wingnut hold-down is also on my 2006 TM.

Bill

Do you have a pic of the rear mounting bracket or maybe you could just describe it?

**Bill** · 11-03-2010, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harveyrv

Do you have a pic of the rear mounting bracket or maybe you could just describe it?

Pics attached. Hope they help. Assuming your tanks have a front and rear lip (and I think they do), I see no reason why a welder couldn't set it up for you quite easily. He will need (at least) to re-orient the rear rail so it opens upward and forward, instead of down and back.

On the new setup, the rear rail has a pair of raised pieces that form a slot (Pic 4), and the rear lip of the tank simply slips into the slot. The front lip of the tank sits on the front rail, the shank of an eye bolt drops down through both, and a wingnut secures it from below.

As a bit of history, I believe that the first slideout models came with upright propane tanks. The slideout was designed with a cubbyhole to provide clearance for those tanks when the slide came out. Sometime later, the switch was made to horizontal tanks, and the tanks were depressed between the frame rails on side-to-side support rails. As I recall, my 2002 2720SL was set up that way. At that point, the cubbyhole no longer served a purpose, and I believe that 2004 was the last year when the cubbyhole was built in. The cubbyhole was eliminated in 2005 (?), which saved both weight and manufacturing complexity on the TM, and provided more storage under the couch for the owner. My dates may be a bit off here (excpet for my 2002 TM) - someone will correct me.

Hope this helps.

Bill

Wavery · 11-03-2010, 04:42 PM

Thanks Bill. I really appreciate that. I didn't expect you to go to all that trouble. I hope this helps others too.

The rear mounting angle iron on ours is welded on in the opposite direction, with the open part of the angle iron pointing toward the rear.

Your pics gave me a good idea though. I took my 4" angle grinder and simply cut slots in the angle iron and ground off 6 of the original mounting bolts. I drilled 1/2" holes about 1/4" forward of where the forward bolt holes were (where you have the big eye bolts).

I now just slide the rear bracket of the tank into the slots, then drop a 1/2" clevis pin (with a clip) in the front hole and I'm done. I don't have to lift the top either. The tanks are nice and snug too.......

I stood on the angle iron and bounced up & down after cutting the slots (I weigh 220#). They didn't budge.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 11-02-2010, 07:39 PM

Haha....yes, you have experienced the pain. I am right there with ya, although I do not have to raise the front shell. I have plenty of clearance to get the tanks off with the shells fully closed, so "all" I need to do is undo the 6 bolts.

I have not done anything to improve the attachment, but I do know it is much easier to remove the tanks on newer SL models. Perhaps someone here with one can share some pics. I vaguely remember seeing one a few years ago, and immediately thinking it wasn't an easy retrofit.

I'm anxious to hear what you do to make it easier. In the meantime, be sure you replace those lock washers periodically. And be super careful you don't strip, bend, or break the bolts welded to the tongue......

Dave