More Marathon tire failures

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

If that's all that needs to be done, I can simply do that myself, right?

Dave

Welllllllllllll maybe. If they used the 2 rubber grommets that came with the valve stem, then I'm not sure if the job was performed to where it will be as simple. Here's the scenarios if they used both the .453 and .625 grommets. The stems come with the .625 grommet on the bottom of the stem and the .453 grommet on top. See Jim/Freedoms pic in his earlier post.

If they changed the position of the grommets (put the .453 grommet on the inside) of how they come already placed on the stem, then yes you can just take the outside .625 grommet off....replace the washer...then the nut, and then screw it till snug (Don't overtighten to the point of tearing the grommet). Make sure not to let the stem fall back into the wheel/tire....or you will have to get it dismounted. Even in this scenario, I don't know if they properly seated the .453 grommet into the valve hole....or even put the correct side of the grommet facing the valve hole.

If they didn't change the position of the grommets (which I doubt they did if they weren't smart enough to know how to do it firsthand), then you already have problems. The .625 grommet doesn't fit your valve hole, but they have probably pulled it up into the hole when they tightened it down originally. If this happened, it's just compressed in the valve hole, tore up, and WILL leak eventually.....most likely as soon as you take the other rubber grommet off....if this is how they did it.

Without knowing EXACTLY what these guys did, I just don't have confidence in any of it. Hopefully it will be as simple to fix as you stated.

Let us know. Thanks

[ShrimpBurrito]

Ok, I hope I got this resolved today. I took all 3 tires back to the shop, and was looking over their shoulder the entire time.

Upon removing the nut and outside grommet to the metal stem, one of the tires immediately started leaking. Upon dismounting the tire, it was obvious that the inside of one of the metal valves was hitting the side of one of the rims, such that is was not able to lie flat on the inside grommet. Basically, the flange on the inside of the valve was too large. This seemed like an impossible installation to seal, just asking for a leak, Ugh. I am so glad I addressed this.

Amazingly, with 3 totally different guys there this time, none of them could come to a consensus on the proper installation of a metal valve stem. Just like the last time. After about a 10 minute discussion and some serious soul searching in their stock room, they appeared with some "heavy duty" rubber stems for trucks, apparently rated to at least 100 psi, maybe 120 psi. They certainly seemed more substantial than the ones I was stepping on laying on the floor. They said "Germany" on the bottom of them, so I hope that translates into quality. The marking "600 XHP" appears on the side. The rep said they cost ~$12-$15 retail, which I was having a hard time believing, but I certainly have more confidence now with this setup.

Pics of the new stems are attached.

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

Amazingly, with 3 totally different guys there this time, none of them could come to a consensus on the proper installation of a metal valve stem. Just like the last time. After about a 10 minute discussion and some serious soul searching in their stock room, they appeared with some "heavy duty" rubber stems for trucks, apparently rated to at least 100 psi, maybe 120 psi. They certainly seemed more substantial than the ones I was stepping on laying on the floor. They said "Germany" on the bottom of them, so I hope that translates into quality. The marking "600 XHP" appears on the side. The rep said they cost ~$12-$15 retail, which I was having a hard time believing, but I certainly have more confidence now with this setup.

Pics of the new stems are attached.

Dave, this will work. I am sorry you had such a terrible experience with obviously untrained personnel. To me, this goes all the way back up the line to untrained management. It really embarrases me, as a tire professional. I can't say exactly what they charge for a TR600 stem on a retail level, but the stems actually don't cost but around $.60 cents wholesale, even cheaper the more bulk you buy. That would be a 2000 to 2500 % markup, according to these guys. Whew.

http://www.myerstiresupply.com/pls/m...rt_id=mwoe5448

Anyhow, I am glad you got it fixed. I was worried ffrom the getgo on what you had posted, and hopefully relayed my concerns in my posts accurately. It seems they had done precisely what I feared on your stems. You did the correct thing in getting them to replace these stems before you got on the road. You had a ticking time bomb. You should be safe for awhile now.

P.S. I have said this before in another post, but would like to remind everyone again. Please do not spray wheel cleaning chemicals onto your rubber valve stems, if at all possible. These chemicals will deteriorate the rubber in the stem. Regular Armorall also reacts bad with tires, and should be avoided.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Thanks for your comments, Bobby. I appreciate you taking the time to take a look at all this stuff. Hopefully soon I can start enjoying the part of the trailer that is above the frame.

I figured those TR600 valve stems were a fraction of the price. If I could sell lots of 60 cent stems for $12, I would surely quit my day job.

Cheers,
Dave

Howdy All
I am sorry to report once again another, “Goodyear Marathon tire failure”. The sidewall blew out in one of the tires when we were driving in the Texas Hill Country. I have read many stories on the forum and planned to replace all three tires next month. I did everything I should prior to my trip. This included a close up inspection of the tires checking for hairline cracks or obvious defects. Checked the air pressure and filled to 50 psig (14” R75 215) before heading out, cold. Oh, I forgot to mention I greased the wheel bearings the weekend before and inspected the brakes. I have been worrying about these tires after reading so much about them on the forum. I made sure I stayed below 65miles per hour and did a check to make sure they were not overly hot when we made a stop.
After 235 miles into the trip, she blew. I said to my crew “I think I smell rubber”, but no one else in the car did. I asked my wife to put down her window but she did not smell any rubber, I saw a exit ahead and put my blinker on to pull off the highway. Just at that moment, I felt a vibration in the steering and a passing car was blowing its horn, pointing to me to pull over. It happened ever so fast. I was lucky it happened at the beginning of an off ramp

I breathed a sigh of relief when I got out and saw the drivers side was good. This meant I did not have to deal with oncoming traffic and possible plumbing damage.

My wife and her sister were worried about the whole ordeal but things worked out pretty well. I was pleasantly surprised on how easy it was to get the spare out from underneath the TM. My wife had great concerns about the large indents in the sidewall of the spare from the holding fixture. (This did not help her anxiety level at this point)
I broke the lug nuts and used the stabilizer to raise the TM. When I got the stabilizer up to its maximum height it came up short on height. This meant I was going to need to lower it down, pop up the TM, and get my blocks out from the bumper storage. I won’t be keeping all of the leveling blocks in the bumper storage from now on. Now I was starting to dread the reality of lowering the TM and then popping it up along side of the exit ramp. I needed a hair more to raise the unit high enough to get the tire off and put the fully inflated one back on.

Just at that moment, a nice young man pulled up to see if he could offer some help. . He had a small hydraulic jack which enabled us to lift the unit up the additional height with out going through the fore mentioned. When I started to put the lug nuts back on to the wheel, he went back to his truck and got a four-way lug wrench, which saved my aging muscles. I had been keeping my four-way wrench in the back compartment because prior to this I only used it when I was working on the wheels in the driveway. Another lesson learned. It is now stowed behind the back seat in the truck. Once I arrived at our destination (Guadalupe RV Resort in Kerrville) I looked into buying some tires. The local Discount Tire guy tried to sell me two Carlisle tires as a replacement. . He only had the 205 ‘s not the 215’s so I did not want to go smaller. Beside that, the only experience I had with Carlisle tires was on my lawn tractor. By this point in time, I want a good tire. I found a second dealer (A&A Tire in Kerrville, nice people) When I inquired he told me he had the Goodyear Marathon and Maxxis. When he mentioned the Marathons I was quick to tell him “I did not want any parts of them” he said, “I don’t blame you”
Well with that, said, I opted for the six ply radial, Maxxis @ $88.00 a piece. I had read on the forum where some of the TM owners were replacing the GY Marathons. with the Maxxis. These surely had to be better then the dreaded GY Marathons.
A&A changed out the tires, balanced them and installed new SS valve stems in about an hours time. I took them back to the campsite and installed the two new tires to my wife’s delight. I checked the pressure before leaving the campsite. The dealer had them both dead on @ 50 psig. It was smooth sailing on our return trip home. I was sure to keep it under 65mph and checked the pressure at the half waypoint. This weekend I hope to find time to install some heavy-duty mud flaps to help protect the pluming should a blow out occur on the drivers side. Lets, hope not!

I will continue to be diligent about keeping my speed below 65 mph and checking the tire pressure often.

Kind regards,
Cody in Texas

Leon, yes the tires were the originals and yes I did plan on replacing them. I am not complaining about the tires although I do believe people with newer ones had the same problems. The tires looked very good on the surface and one would not know about the blow out possibilities if it were not for the post other TM owners left on this forum. I hope to keep the awareness of the problem out there to help avoid possible personal injuries. Thanks to all who have posted in the past. Additionally I hope that some others may learn from my mistakes. Thanks Leon for all of your great post, I have learned much from you, much appreciated
Kind regards,
Cowboy Cody

Originally Posted by Cowboy Cody

This meant I was going to need to lower it down, pop up the TM, and get my blocks out from the bumper storage. I won’t be keeping all of the leveling blocks in the bumper storage from now on.

I can get to the bumper storage with the unit down on my 2003 with a little finaggling (sp?). I do keep the metal and side rubber lubed with silicone spray to help things slide. I keep all of my leveling blocks there also.

Chap

[Bill]

Cody -

Chap is right. In addition, on the 2002 models, the forward edge of the diamond-plate cover rests on a small metal ledge in the middle. On my 2002 2720SL, I used to put the diamond-plate cover UNDER that metal ledge, instead of on top of it. This made it easier to finagle the cover off when I needed to.

Bill

[wbmiller3]

Cowboy Cody,
Let us know how the Maxxis tires work out. Hopefully I have three more years left on my current set of tires but I want to get the best available when the clock runs out.
Thanks,

Thank you Mt guy, Bill & Bill,
I will take a look at how snug the bottom section sits on the lower half. I imagine some of the tension depends on how tightly you have the back catch latches. I do have a tendency to keep the front and back section down tight, which would leave little room for pulling out the diamond plate. I will let you know. WB Miller, I will keep you abreast on the wear and performance of the new Maxxis. I can tell you already I have a better confidence level in them. This does not mean, I will get laxed on checking the tire pressure (cold) and keeping my speed at bay
Kind regards,
Cowboy Cody