A 200 AH cordless drill

klpauba · 09-01-2015, 06:27 PM

I took an old 12 VDC cordless drill, removed the dead batteries and made a handy attachment to my TM. It can be used to raise/lower the stablizers, drill holes, drive screws, mix pancake batter, etc.

I can use an ordinary extension cord to extend the reach. I made sure to put the femaie plug on the Bargman (sp?) plug so the DC system in the TM wouldn't accidently get charged with line voltage.

This is for those who have a good understanding of electricity (I wonder if I belong in that group

). I think I'll put a Darwin Award warning label on it.

Padgett · 09-01-2015, 07:55 PM

I just would use standard 12v plugs to avoid accidents.

LoveToCamp · 09-01-2015, 08:36 PM

klpauba, that seems to be a great idea! Drill batteries won't die, and I would imagine you get more power from the TM batteries.

Padgett, I am not an electrician, but will those standard 12v connectors support the amps sucked by the drill? Seems like they are pretty light-weight, if they are the ones I have used for low-voltage applications.

klpauba · 09-01-2015, 08:53 PM

Also, I wanted to you a standard extension cord (which I carry anyway) when I needed to reach the back stabilizers or needed it more than a few feet from the tongue.

Padgett · 09-02-2015, 07:59 AM

LoveToCamp: 10 gauge ?

klpauba · 09-02-2015, 08:25 AM

The extension cord is 10 ga. but I have 12 ga on the drill and bargman side.

I have a 20A blade-style fuse in the empty space of the battery pack. We'll see how that goes.

ThePair · 09-04-2015, 07:41 AM

I think this is a very clever solution to the "need to remember to recharge the batteries" problem that I, and others I'm sure, suffer from.

The OCD in me wants to point out that, with this mod, it's technically no longer a "cordless" drill, as noted in your title.

I have contemplated using the Bargeman for things in the past -- this gives me hope that my mind isn't completely out of control...

klpauba · 09-14-2015, 09:07 AM

I recently found out that the positive 12 V connection on the TM plug goes to the converter and, thus, only works when the converter is shore-powered. This reduces its usefulness.

I suppose I'll probably change the gender of the plug so that I can use the TV Bargman instead.

ThePair · 09-15-2015, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klpauba

I recently found out that the positive 12 V connection on the TM plug goes to the converter and, thus, only works when the converter is shore-powered. This reduces its usefulness.

Not true. I use the TM Bargeman for my Powered Dolly, and it supplies 12V for braking purposes by shorting the 12V line to the brake line via a switch on the dolly. If you put a voltmeter to the Bargeman, you should find one line is always 12V+, regardless of whether or not you're shore-powered. How else would the TV potentially "juice" the battery, or the fridge on 12V, for that matter?

The 120V goes into the converter, and then into the battery, sure. But, the Bargeman 12V line is hooked into the same terminal as the 12V+ battery line, going to the battery. It's a direct-connect between those two. At least, on my system it is, I've checked at the converter as well as the Bargeman.

Simple test: does the drill work if you're not on shore power?

oldstick · 09-15-2015, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoveToCamp

klpauba, that seems to be a great idea! Drill batteries won't die, and I would imagine you get more power from the TM batteries.

Padgett, I am not an electrician, but will those standard 12v connectors support the amps sucked by the drill? Seems like they are pretty light-weight, if they are the ones I have used for low-voltage applications.

Without checking the specs to be sure, I would think any of the trailer pigtail type connectors (7 pin, 6 pin, 4 pin etc) would be plenty heavy duty enough for any current a formerly battery powered drill would pull. If we are talking about the cig lighter-socket type connections, then probably a heavier duty version (5 or 10 amp) would be wise.