Water Heater element

rshenise · 07-03-2014, 03:21 PM

I need to replace the heater element in the hot water tank.
Does anyone know the part number
I have a 2008 TM

TM Pilot · 07-03-2014, 05:30 PM

In my 2007 TM2619, my Suburban water heater is model SW6DE.
The part number for the 1440 watt electric element w/ gasket is 520789.

rshenise · 07-06-2014, 08:36 AM

Thank you!

rshenise · 08-19-2014, 04:08 AM

OK...I replaced the Electric heater element but no hot water (LP gas heater works ok) the reset buttons seem to be stuck...may have to replace both the reset buttons (there are two) and the on/off switch..my TM is 2008..does anyone know of the parts numbers for the replacement of the reset and on/off switch?

**Bill** · 08-19-2014, 07:37 AM

http://www.bigdiscountrv.com/water-h...arts-breakdown

Bill

08-19-2014, 07:38 AM

The reset buttons are pressed in for normal operation and pop out when tripped. If they are in, they should be operating correctly. Did you have the HW tank full when you turned on the heater switch. If not you burned it out. It only takes a second or two. Also check the breaker. If the old one tripped it could take out the Breaker

tentcamper · 08-19-2014, 08:48 AM

For what it's worth. I think one of the reset buttons is for the Propane and the other is for the elec element. Both get set from Over-Temp limit switch. But when they are in the run position (NC) they will fell like they are stuck. It's not until the Hi-temp is set that you will fell anything when you press it.

It might be worth seeing if you are getting 120V to the element. I assume you have checked the circuit breaker and are running off of shore power??

rshenise · 08-20-2014, 07:07 AM

I did replace the electric heating element in the water heater...gas works fine but the does not heat water with the element...the reset buttons are pushed in which I presume is normal...I bought the TM used last year and noticed the electric element was not working and only got to replace it a week ago on a trip...It was in pretty bad shape when I pulled it out, broken and split.
So is there anything else I should look at that could be a reason the element
isn't heating the water...?

davlin · 08-20-2014, 08:38 AM

See Art's comment (above).

It sounds like you're not getting 120 vac to the element. The best way to troubleshoot that is with a multimeter. Two cautions: 1. You'll be working near dangerous voltage; if that's something you're not comfortable with, I would take your TM to a repair facility, and 2. Make sure you have water in your water heater before you attempt to turn on the 120 vac element.

Having said that:

1. Check to make sure that all of your circuit breakers are on at your converter.
2. Check to make sure that your AC switch (lower left hand corner of the water heater enclosure) is on.
3. Disconnect the black (power) wire from the heating element, and measure voltage from the end of the black wire to the white (neutral) wire. If you have 120 vac, you have a bad element. Not likely, since you just replaced it, but it never hurts to check.
4. If you have no voltage there, you will need to go further "upstream." I do not know if pulling the thermostat cover will give you access to the wiring at the thermostat, as I have never done that. It may be easier to go back to the circuit breaker and proceed "downstream." At some point you may have pull the water heater out of its enclosure (ugh!)

Of course, as Art said "are you sure you're connected to shore power?"

Dave

tentcamper · 08-20-2014, 09:48 AM

PS if you don't have 120V at the element per davelin instructions. I would add one more quick check. Keep the lead on the black wire, but change the lead from on the white wire to the bare copper wire or the the metal frame on the water heater. When donig this don't touch the water heater with anything other then the meter probe to the bare wire of metal frame, or you may get a shock if the copper wire is not connected good to the frame or converter buss bar. This test will check to make sure you don't have a open white wire going back to the converter.

PS: I don't think the beaker to the water heater is a GFI breaker, but if it is, the gfi breaker will most likely trip if you have 120V and because it trips so fast you may not get a reading on the meter. But if it trips assume you have 120 on the black wire and somewhere between the white wire connection you made and the white wire (nature buss bar) in the power distribution panel the white wire is open (broken, disconnected or poor connection).