Inline Fuse & More

Reldma · 10-07-2010, 05:37 PM

Do all TM's come with an inline fuse on the positive wire of the battery. I have looked and looked and can't find an inline fuse or any indication there ever was one. I checked the fuse panel and can’t see anything there. See picture
Also is there suppose to be a piece of PVC between the top of the battery cover and the outside vent?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-07-2010, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reldma

Do all TM's come with an inline fuse on the positive wire of the battery.

They should, and if you don't have one, you need to install one pronto. Not having one is a fire hazard. Get an ATC-style fuse holder/fuse, like the ones in your car. I'm very surprised your TM doesn't have one. I can't imagine it coming from the factory that way, but I'm sure it's possible. Are you the original owner?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reldma

Also is there suppose to be a piece of PVC between the top of the battery cover and the outside vent?

There is supposed to be a piece of ribbed PVC hose here, venting the battery to the vent in the wall. You can get some at any decent marine store. While I'm not sure how well it works, there's no real way to tell except the boom-boom method, so it's better than nothing. It's also very important to have -- not really a fire hazard though, more of an explosion hazard.

Dave

ThePair · 10-07-2010, 07:10 PM

I didn't think TMs came from the factory with batteries installed; I was under the impression that was a dealer thing. So, the dealer may not have done it. Clearly, the vent hose is missing...although if the battery is AGM, it's debatable if it is really necessary. Mine has the hose because, hey, why not, but AGM batteries aren't supposed to give off H2, so the risk of explosion is next to nil.

Then again, I'm no expert on this.

cochise · 10-07-2010, 07:46 PM

We argued with TM about the same missing 12VDC in-line fuse (and a number of other items). They claimed that it was not needed, but their own schematic of the electrical system for our Elkmont 24 CLEARLY showed a 30A fuse. And RVIA also stipulates it, and since the trailers bear the RVIA seal it MUST be installed.

It is also worth checking the 120VAC wiring, as we found that to be in violation of NEC code, with too long loops, wiring not fastened as per NEC etc. The same for the 12VDC wiring.

But it does not surprise me that TM skipped that one too. Our Elkmont has spent 2 full months in the repair shop to the tune of over $ 5000.00 and we are not done yet.

Reldma · 10-07-2010, 07:59 PM

I am the 3rd owner as well as I can tell. I know the original owner was a doctor in southern IL. We bought it from Camping World this past spring. This TM has had a number of issues.
Question: The battery I just took out of the TM is a Marine/RV Interstate and it is a Marine Cranking Amps 690. Should I be looking for something similiar to this size to replace this one?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-07-2010, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reldma

I am the 3rd owner as well as I can tell.

Then who knows what happened to the fuse. It could have been removed by any one of those owners, or even Camping World. Just put a new one in -- the holder and fuse will be ~$5.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reldma

The battery I just took out of the TM is a Marine/RV Interstate and it is a Marine Cranking Amps 690. Should I be looking for something similiar to this size to replace this one?

Cranking amps is an irrelevant specification in this application. What you want is capacity, which is measured in amp hours (Ah). In fact, you want a battery that specifically does NOT list cranking amps, since cranking capacity typically means a sacrifice in capacity. Ah is a number you will unlikely find on a Marine/RV hybrid battery, however, and just because one battery has more cranking amps than another does not mean it has more capacity.

But before you do much thinking about batteries, are you going to usually camp with hookups? If so, then battery selection is less critical, since you will be running off unlimited shore power, and a replacement like the one you have would likely be fine.

Dave

Reldma · 10-07-2010, 08:09 PM

Cochise you lost me with the 120VAC wiring and the NEC code and the 12 VDC. Those terms are new to me. Can you explain to me what I should be looking for!

10-07-2010, 09:20 PM

I think the major question is why do you need the battery? If it is only to power the brakes and to power the tongue jack you don't need a big battery. If you intend to camp more than overnight without plugging in to charge the battery you need more capacity. What you do need is a marine storage battery. Marine batteries come in two kinds. One starts the gas motor and can then be used for the electric trolling motor. The pure storage battery is to power the boat systems including the trolling motor but not start the gas engine. Starting the gas engine requires a lot of short term power but robs that from long term storage capacity.
There are lots of threads on batteries and what people use. Any battery outlet should have someone to explain the difference.

cochise · 10-08-2010, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reldma

Cochise you lost me with the 120VAC wiring and the NEC code and the 12 VDC. Those terms are new to me. Can you explain to me what I should be looking for!

Sure.. The NEC, short for National Electrical Code, is the minimum to be applied in wiring. That code states how long a loop may be, how far between fastening the cable etc. Under the bed in the Elkmont there are 2 o120VAC outlets, one on each side. In my Elkmont when we got it, TM had crammed the excess wire/cable into a “ball” and left it there/ It was fastened where it entered the storage area under the bed, approximately 32” from the outlet. When the “ball” of cable was untangled we had about 20” of cable. NEC allows a loop of 6” to 9”, this so an outlet can be pulled from the box and replaced if necessary. I just discovered another wire “ball”, under the seat at the very rear of the trailer, against the rear wall. The seat is fastened with 3 screws under the front frame. I had to remove that to verify that the rear wall had not been attached to the floor, as it should have been, resulting in a lower shelf failure in the cabinet adjacent to the fridge.

Upon removing that seat we discovered a “rats nest” of 120VAC cable going to the GFI outlet on the front part of the seat.

The 12VDC wiring is covered under RVIA codes, which again is part of the ANSI (Standard A119.2) which covers RV'S (TRAVEL TRAILERS/MOTOR HOMES/TRUCKS/CAMPERS) wiring. ANSI does not allow loose 12VDC wires; all wires should be gathered, sheathed and covered with flexible tubing to protect the wires. We had to have most of the 12VDC wiring re-done at the repair shop as TM had only covered a few lengths. In the battery area it was a mess, and none of the wires going to the brakes were covered nor connected correctly, as they had used wire nut instead of crimped connectors. When you travel down a road, the wiring going to the brakes (and elsewhere too) flops around if not secured can and probably will rub on sharp metal edges, eating thru the insulation. Next thing you know, you got no brakes. I know for a fact that this did play out for another member here with an Elkmont, but he caught it in time to not experience the brake failure.

However again, since you are not the original owner changes could have been made by someone else, but given TM’s track record on quality and workmanship, I doubt it.

10-08-2010, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

They should, and if you don't have one, you need to install one pronto. Not having one is a fire hazard. Get an ATC-style fuse holder/fuse, like the ones in your car. I'm very surprised your TM doesn't have one. I can't imagine it coming from the factory that way, but I'm sure it's possible. Are you the original owner?

Dave

I'm The Original Owner Of My 2008 2720, No Fuse By The Battery Here Either, I Installed My Own.